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Old 11-03-2009, 08:25   #1
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Perkins Injector Removal

On a Perkins 4-236 I have one of four injectors refusing to come out . The front one. It has had penetrating fluid soaking for a couple of weeks. Any suggestions short of damaging? All other came out clean relatively easy.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:29   #2
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Bigger wrench or place a pipe extension on the handle of your wrench for more leverage. Take it slow, work it back and forth at the begining. If that fails, break out the saws, drills and hammers.
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Old 12-03-2009, 07:39   #3
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If it is rusted in that badly, the injector is probably going to break off. I have had that happen (years and years ago) . I ended up having to take it out with a reciprocating saw and chisels
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:03   #4
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With that thought, I think I would prefer to remove or drill out retaining studs first, to work on some rotational force.

The end desire is to lube cylinders work some movement by hand into an engine sitting for a long time.

Further to this what size socket should I pack for the large nut on the end of the crank. (prefer not to fly with a large number of big sockets).

Thanks for the advice will slowly, gently proceed.
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:12   #5
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I was going to say that...if you can remove the studs...you will get more of a twist

Also...when you get a wrench on it you might want to try "shocking" it with raps on the end of the wrench...back and forth...don't go crazy beating on it....judicious raps.
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:12   #6
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Quote:
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Further to this what size socket should I pack for the large nut on the end of the crank. (prefer not to fly with a large number of big sockets).
Measure across the flats of the nut perhaps?
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Old 03-04-2010, 10:11   #7
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Injector removal

I'm trying to remove mine from a Perkins 4-108. Having never attempted it, I am perplexed as to how they come out. Looking at the diagram of the parts explosion, It is not intuitive. Are they threaded into the head, and what is the function of the collar that is held in place with two nuts on studs? I removed the nuts and nothing is budging. I don't want to force anything for fear of creating more work. Any suggestions? The repair manual is very vague.

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Old 03-04-2010, 11:00   #8
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4-108 ejectors

The ejectors on the 4-108 are not screwed in to the engine head like a spark plug. There is a copper washer seal that is compressed when you tighten the two nuts on the ejector holder. Remove these nuts (some of the studs may unscrew from the head) and use a screw driver to pry the holder up. I had to rotate the ejectors a little to get it to come out. Like always make sure the area is clean so no gunk gets in the cylinder. Unfortunatly the PO had some work done on ours and then retapped some of the studs with americian standard threads. I had not realized this and had a mess putting them back in following gettng the ejectors rebuilt. The original studs are metric. When you get the ejectors rebuilt they should also provide new copper washer seals.

Hope this helps
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:29   #9
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Too late for the OP...but FWIW to the next guy...that nut is 1 1/2 or 38 mm
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Old 03-04-2010, 20:20   #10
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Time and PB Blaster.......Gentler pressure back and forth......
Repeat

You may need to get two ladyslippers I can't describe them well........ I'll try to find a pixture
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:21   #11
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Cinderella?

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I'll try to find a pixture
Please do. I am intrigued.
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Old 05-04-2010, 19:08   #12
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They are also known as rolling head pry bars.

I am sure the British have their own term.....
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Old 09-04-2010, 06:29   #13
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After using all above methods my one stuck injector came out after removing the head to give more room to use more impact from both bottom and top. We had been using PB blaster for 6 weeks and had many clever pullers, pryers and tapered wedges and sledge hammers working at it. Pulling the head is not a bad job and allows clean up of other issues that will likely be found if valve is rusted in. Get the needed gaskets before pulling and have a local machine shop available to do needed cleanup. Perkins heads are not expensive to get redone at the machine shop.
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:00   #14
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When you put it back together, coat the injector bodies with some anti-seize....of yours you and your bloody knuckles already know that
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Old 09-04-2010, 11:02   #15
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Its worth making a puller using an old injector pipe nut, shaft, heavy larger dia pipe over the shaft with an end stop. About 12'' travel is enough.
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