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Old 31-05-2007, 02:56   #16
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I'll look into it when the sun comes up
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Old 31-05-2007, 07:17   #17
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$350 US (roughly) for a new, OEM starter motor for a 4-cylinder diesel is not a bad price at all. I'd call it cheap.
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Old 31-05-2007, 07:20   #18
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Oops. Misread your missive (not enough coffee, yet). A friend recently bought a new starter for his Volvo MD2B, and it was a little over $900 US, close to $1,000 US including tax (he bought from a local supply house and so had to pay 7% Sales tax).
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Old 01-06-2007, 06:07   #19
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$2194.14 US for an new Perkins. I'll keep looking for an aftermarket unit.
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Old 01-06-2007, 06:58   #20
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I bought a new after market for an 85 hp 4-236 Perkins in April for $350 US . And I thought that was high.
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Old 01-06-2007, 07:38   #21
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He has a newer model Perkns-Prima M80.
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Old 01-06-2007, 08:09   #22
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David, have you tried contacting the manufacturer of the starter motor to see if you can buy the replacement magnets? We have had several forum members who have repaired wind generators by replacing broken magnets. It seems a shame to have to spend 1000 euros when the problem is just a couple of permanent magnets.

Good luck
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Old 01-06-2007, 10:34   #23
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I've been able to find an aftermarket.
PM me for details
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Old 01-06-2007, 20:09   #24
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Seems like a rebuild might be attractive, after all!
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Old 07-06-2007, 07:55   #25
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Thanks everyone for the replies.

I found this motor electrician who sent my starter motor off to Izmir. I was a bit worried because if it went missing then I would have dificulty getting a replacement. Anyway when I expressed my concerns he reassured with the usual Turkish expression "bir problem olmaz" which that there won't be any problem.

Everyone says this expression and at least 50% of the time there IS a problem!!

Anyway I also told him that someone else was looking into it for me ( because I had given the importers phone number to another marine tecky - who was going to get a price for me) so his price had to be competitive.

About four four days later he rang me up and said that the Izmir company and replaced the insides but kept the origional cog, shaft plate on the starter motor, so it will definitely fit back on.

So we went to the boat and fitted it and YES it turned the engine over !!!
Next I said I wanted to see if the engine would run. I bought the boat two months ago and didn't know if the engine would work. The boat had been standing on land for eight months and the marine company who were going to service it for the previous owner said that because the boat had partially sunk, the engine needed stripping and rebuilding. (That is hideously expensive).


Well we got some deisel and after just two turns - the engine fired up.
YES - excellent - a real nice smooth sound. Definitely no re-build necessary.

Well I am really happy about this because this would have been the most expensive thing to get fixed.

Anyway - how much did it cost ?
The rebuild on the starter moter was 200 YTL ( thats Yeni Turkish Lira ) and as the exchange rate is 2.7 lira to the UK pound thats less than 80
plus 20 lira for the shipping (to Izmir and back) I think thats total is less than $ 150 US !!!

So compared with all other options it has worked out well.
I have some wood work to do. There is asmall area where the wood - its pine - has rotted. I pulled a plank off and took it to a saw mill and got six bits of new wood ( each piece 1m x 15 cm x 3cm) and a carpenter machined then to the correct size ( total cost was 17 lira - about $ 10)

I found out that they stuff cotton in between the joints with a special tool (thats a bit pricey to get done as well) so today I also bought 5kg of cotton. I asked all over the place for this tool but noone had one to sell me so I have asked as blacksmith to make me the special tool.

Well thats it for now.

Thanks again for your help on the starter motor problem.
Dave in Turkey.
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Old 07-06-2007, 11:46   #26
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Hi Dave
What you are looking for is caulkin irons. They come in different thicknesses. Here is a site which sells the stuff you need. At least you can use the pictures to To get some made . A local black smith where you are if you can find one will have no problems in manufacturing these. You usually use a set of three thicknesses. Look up wooden boat books for the technique. Since there are a lot of wooden boats in the Turkish area you should be able to find an experienced caulker to help. Its not that hard but there is a technique. I have a set of irons back in Canada but that does you no good.Caulking Irons / Mallets-wooden boat products
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Old 07-06-2007, 22:36   #27
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Thanks for that info. I have done a google on caulking irons and found some pictures and explaination of how to do caulking. Doesn't look too difficult so I'll give it a go after I have put in the new wood.
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Old 08-06-2007, 00:10   #28
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Caulking

If my memory serves me right traditional planking was done by leaving a small gap (a saw blade's thickness?) between planks.

The caulking cotton was then driven between the planks using a caulking iron similar to those referred to.

Reason I mention this is that my memory (always suspect) is that caulking irons were thin with a slender consistent wedge shape ending in a straight squared off end. Those referred to look too thick and appear to have a sharp point.

I would susect that pine would be way too soft to be managed in this way. The boats that I saw being built this way were made from hardwood (Blue Gum?).

Again from memory the Gougeon Bros? suggested a method where thin wedges of planking material were saturated in epoxy resin and driven between the planks. After the epoxy had set they could be planed off smooth. The risk in doing this would be that there would be one epoxy saturated area with the rest natural so that as the planks absorbed water there would be different swelling. A proper assessment of the boat would ned to be made.

I could find no reference to this on this web but I did find a reference to using polysulfide caulking in addition to the cotton.
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Old 08-06-2007, 02:13   #29
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I am suspecting that the pine is roughly the same softness as western red cedar which was used on a fishing boat I caulked some time back. You have to get the cotton in firmly without driving the irons too hard to splinter the seam from the backside. A two part polysulphide sealant was used for the last eight of an inch in the seam. the old days used pitch. How thick is the planking? Mine was 1 1/8 in Red Cedar over Bent oak frames. Typical Caravel style used on many West Coast Trollers in Canada.
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Old 08-06-2007, 04:15   #30
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The method that is used here on these boats is as follows:
Nail on the planks - driving the nail head 1/4 below wood surface.
Sand the wood so it is even. Twist the cotton and push it into the gaps between the planks. Then drive the cotton in with the caulking tool.
Then paint with primer. Then use "machun" - a type of putty/filler that hardens off. Fill the nail head recesses as well. Sand it all down to a nice finish. Maybe another coat of primer then the anti-fouling coat.

How does that sound ?
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