Thank you Peter and Guy.
Plate looks pretty beat up. Replacement pump does not come with plate. Looking at the function it appears the plate serves to force water out the hole and into the engine. While a perfect machined fit would serve to move more water volume not sure it is a necessary function as the pump impeller spins at engine rpm
and as long as the coolant lines are clear then sufficient volume should be moving through the engine to bleed off the heat. But that is just my new owner guess. That is why I asked the question of you experienced boaters.
Sourced the pump for the 4107 from Perkins
Distributor. They told me the difference from the 4108 is in the shaft size. Assured me that the pump I got was for my 107. On inspection
the units look the same. Both shaft sizes are 5/8 in. I'll know for sure when I have the pulley assembly removed and pressed on to the new pump.
Peter I agree with you about using the right sealant
for the gaskets. Just not much info about the right one for a marine
diesel engine. Suspect for the experienced mechanic
it is common knowledge. Guessing here but with engine temps reported to be in the 200 F or less suspect I can use any of the hi temp sealants, but not shellac as it is supposed to have a temp range of 150 F. Hope some one has some experience with a sealant
that has worked well on their diesel. Otherwise I'll look to what I can get from the car mechanics and cross fingers.
Thanks Guy for the info on the pipe fittings.
So do you just open the sender until coolant/water starts coming out then tighten them back up?
Do this with engine cold or at idle?
Will they take a fitting so I can use them to force water in and through the motor
to flush the system?
Maybe it is overkill to try the flushing
process but with the rust I saw in the coolant water flushing
seems long over due. Engine is old (1974) and pretty sure from the look of the engine the previous owners practiced delayed maintenance
Thanks for your help.