Perkins 4-154 Rebuild or Repower

[richnjohn]

Sorry, just a little off topic. I want to pull the oil sump drain plugs on my 4-154s and replace them with valves to make oil changing easier. Can someone tell me what size the drain plug is? I know I could pull it and see but I'd rather have all the parts ready rather than pulling the plug then going shopping.


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[specter539]

RichnJohn,
This link is to the sump drain plug. Perkins Sump Drain Bolt

It looks to be 19mm or 3/4 inch. Pay attention to the thread style though.

[Keelhauler]

Gentlemen,

Just caught wind of this topic. I'm sure this issue has been resolved but future rag baggers may come across this, like me.

I too have a 4-154. Here is a great source for 154 parts.

https://www.parts4engines.com/perkins-4-154-parts/

Just make sure you know what series engine you have. Provide them your engine serial number and they make sure you get what you need. TAD can do the same. You can get a complete rebuild kit for under $600.00. The hardest part of rebuilding your engine is getting it out of the boat. If you really want a superior engine have all the rotating components zero balanced. A performance machine shop will can do a jam up job. Your engine will run smoother and you will gain a couple of ponies in the process.

Have the cylinder head magna fluxed for cracks. you can also have the head cryogenically treated for strength to increase longevity. Install some good stainless valves and a little port work to help it breath better. I would also have the crankshaft, cylinder liners, rods and piston cryogenically treated as well. Also match port the intake and exhaust manifold. I would also go ahead and match port the cooling passages as well. Heat is your biggest enemy on diesel engines. If room allows it, up size your exhaust plumbing. if possible go up 1" size from your normal size. Freeing up the exhaust flow will decrease heat. This is especially important on turbo engines.

In the end you will have a worry free engine that will last for a century and out perform any of the same size engine replacements and better fuel economy, providing you do your part and maintain it properly.

Its all about what you are really looking for in your boat. For us it`s our retirement home and it will be with us till the end. So we will put forth the extra time on the little details for a hi quality product.

[wph36]

Looking at converting to a 30 kw electric conversion ...any thoughts.
Also, how do I get that Perkins out of there? I have the head off, but not sure what sort of weight I'd have to wrestle with.

[Cheechako]

[QUOTE=Keelhauler;2719641]Gentlemen,

Just caught wind of this topic. I'm sure this issue has been resolved but future rag baggers may come across this, like me.

I too have a 4-154. Here is a great source for 154 parts.

https://www.parts4engines.com/perkins-4-154-parts/

Just make sure you know what series engine you have. Provide them your engine serial number and they make sure you get what you need. TAD can do the same. You can get a complete rebuild kit for under $600.00. The hardest part of rebuilding your engine is getting it out of the boat. If you really want a superior engine have all the rotating components zero balanced. A performance machine shop will can do a jam up job. Your engine will run smoother and you will gain a couple of ponies in the process.

Have the cylinder head magna fluxed for cracks. you can also have the head cryogenically treated for strength to increase longevity. Install some good stainless valves and a little port work to help it breath better. I would also have the crankshaft, cylinder liners, rods and piston cryogenically treated as well. Also match port the intake and exhaust manifold. I would also go ahead and match port the cooling passages as well. Heat is your biggest enemy on diesel engines. If room allows it, up size your exhaust plumbing. if possible go up 1" size from your normal size. Freeing up the exhaust flow will decrease heat. This is especially important on turbo engines.

In the end you will have a worry free engine that will last for a century and out perform any of the same size engine replacements and better fuel economy, providing you do your part and maintain it properly.

Its all about what you are really looking for in your boat. For us it`s our retirement home and it will be with us till the end. So we will put forth the extra time on the little details for a hi quality product.[/ ]




Incredibly smooth slow turning engine. Keep it!

[oldcal46skipper]

Originally Posted by oldcal46skipper

I did a 4.154 re-man last year. Long block was $7,000 + shipping. I did not make very much profit as the re-man kit cost me $2,000, + machine shop + other hard to find parts + my labor. I have 2 rebuildable blocks, but will be $8,000 + shipping from 32507.
In my opinion, a re-man Perkins is far superior to a new Yanmar. Most Perkins 4.154's were built in Japan by Mazda for truck and industrial applications. Some parts interchange with the earlier marine engines built in the UK. I only use UK parts.

Four years later, 80 years old, health challenges, etc. I still have these two Perkins 4.154's rebuildable long blocks. One is a marine engine and the other from a Koehler Genset, with back end, radiator,+. We only have the energy to rebuild Perkins 4.108's and did 21 last year.

Anyone interested in the 4.154's? Make an offer + shipping from Pensacola, FL 32507 PM or E mail bshmarine@yahoo.com Do not call as I am hearing impaired.

Tom

[Keelhauler]

WPH36

With the head off your still looking at 400-450lbs with gear. If you have a center cockpit then you should be able to bring the engine straight out of the cockpit floor. Some aft cockpit boats have removable floors too. It will suck if you have too come up through the companion way. Before I used an two aluminum stands a short and long sections of pipe and come a long. I also used the boom to swing it over to the dock. Best advice make good friends with a small skinny guy and a couple of Yetis. Have cold beer and grill up some burgers. It’s hard works no matter how you look at it.

Electric power is a great way to go. Get with “Electric Yachts” they have the best set up for the money. Just keep in mind if you are long distance cruising you will need a generator. Solar panels and wind generators will only get you so far. Keep the prop in gear while sailing will allow the electric motor to also help recharge the battery bank. I would still get a Honda 2000 just to have for those cloudy calm days.

Have fun and don’t rush the job.

[coopec43]

"A rebore of the block, oversize pistons and replacing the bearings is more likely needed"


Pete
I thought the Perkins 4-154 had cylinder sleeves? That surely would simplify overhauling the motor significantly in the unlikely event the cylinders were worn?

Clive

[coopec43]

Maybe you should be looking for a complete Perkins 4-154 secondhand motor than just a cylinder head?

https://www.parts4engines.com/perkins-4-154-200-series/

Clive

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Keelhauler

WPH36

With the head off your still looking at 400-450lbs with gear. If you have a center cockpit then you should be able to bring the engine straight out of the cockpit floor. Some aft cockpit boats have removable floors too. It will suck if you have too come up through the companion way. Before I used an two aluminum stands a short and long sections of pipe and come a long. I also used the boom to swing it over to the dock. Best advice make good friends with a small skinny guy and a couple of Yetis. Have cold beer and grill up some burgers. It’s hard works no matter how you look at it.

Electric power is a great way to go. Get with “Electric Yachts” they have the best set up for the money. Just keep in mind if you are long distance cruising you will need a generator. Solar panels and wind generators will only get you so far. Keep the prop in gear while sailing will allow the electric motor to also help recharge the battery bank. I would still get a Honda 2000 just to have for those cloudy calm days.

Have fun and don’t rush the job.

Just curious here, do you have firsthand experience cruising with an electric setup similar to that that you describe?

[Lepke]

This thread started in 2013. I'd guess he rebuilt or replaced by now. Why not start a new thread?

[Keelhauler]

Uncle Bob,

Yes, what would you like to know? Mine was installed in a 1968 Choy Lee Sigma a while back. The technology has been greatly enhanced since then. I have been contemplating the conversion for my CT 42 Mermaid Ketch. The main difference between a coastal cruiser and a stand alone world cruiser is renewable power and the cost evolved to for a proper reliable set up.

Coastal Cruising - make sense as you don`t need as large of battery bank and numerous gadgets to recharge and maintain.

Offshore Cruising - Requires multiple recharging capabilities, Larger Battery Banks to increase range and a Possible step up on motor size for motoring in against heavy currents, heavy weather or motoring in no wind situation in the middle of the ocean. Just remember the more systems you have the more that can fail. I`m not saying it can`t be done, because it can. I have designed my proposed system and it will run well over 25K US just for the basics. This doesn`t include wiring components.

I have a perfectly good Perkins 4-154 so spending that kind of money doesn`t make sense. I can buy a lot a fuel for 25K. I can rebuild the engine 5 times and repower twice. I`m a diesel mechanic so I can do my own work which saves cost.

It all depends on your situation. If you have a good running engine then I would keep it simple. If don`t have an engine then perhaps Electric power may be cost effective for you. My advice is to think about all of the cruising situations you can come up with and make a list of pros and cons of having a diesel vs electric. Think of areas such as Northern Latitudes vs tropics. Think of making repairs in the middle of no where. Think of replacement parts and availability. Even in Australia you have challenges on getting some parts. If you have done your research and homework and have the financial means to go full electric then go for it. Just Remember the K.I.S.S. Method. Hope this helps. Take Care and Good Luck.

[starfish62]

I've got the same decision as to the rebuild on the Perkins 4-154. Boat is a Gulfstar 44, MK II. When I bought it used the old engine had a cracked cylinder head, leaky oil pan, rust-welded and shot motor mounts, etc, etc. After getting everything running the tranny took a ****. Now the engine is frozen up and I'm tired of messing with it. Oh, Well.

Here's my question: I've sourced a 4-154 that looks good, but the seller is being dickish about a compression test-it's a diesel shop, but he just doesn't want to do it, which makes me want to walk away. No info on the motor-can't even find the serial number-but I think it's around 1982 and it's a north American model-CAV fuel pump & no glow plugs. No idea as to hours or application. So does anyone know where I can get an injector plug so that I can check compression on this thing? I have the glow plug fitting, but this block doesn't have glow plugs. I've google searched to no avail.

Thanks!


PS: I agree with Keelhauler on Bluewater cruising. Simple, simple, simple. I sailed from Roatan, Honduras all the way to Bocas Del Toro, Panama because I couldn't source a lift pump that I could buy from 5 different places within 15 minutes of my house in the States. Parts are simply nonexistent in most cruising grounds, and FedEx/UPS are worthless and insanely expensive-be prepared to wait a month and pay through the nose. DHL is better, but everything takes a LONG time. It's much better to be able to fix it on the fly. Cruising, after all, is just working on your boat in foreign lands.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by starfish62

I've got the same decision as to the rebuild on the Perkins 4-154. Boat is a Gulfstar 44, MK II. When I bought it used the old engine had a cracked cylinder head, leaky oil pan, rust-welded and shot motor mounts, etc, etc. After getting everything running the tranny took a ****. Now the engine is frozen up and I'm tired of messing with it. Oh, Well.

Here's my question: I've sourced a 4-154 that looks good, but the seller is being dickish about a compression test-it's a diesel shop, but he just doesn't want to do it, which makes me want to walk away. No info on the motor-can't even find the serial number-but I think it's around 1982 and it's a north American model-CAV fuel pump & no glow plugs. No idea as to hours or application. So does anyone know where I can get an injector plug so that I can check compression on this thing? I have the glow plug fitting, but this block doesn't have glow plugs. I've google searched to no avail.

Thanks!
.

A compression test on a diesel usually requires a fitting to go in the place of the injector. These often have to be custom made. So if the mechanic doesn't have one that may the reason. Gas engines re simple to do a test on with a hand held gauge, but diesel compression is too high to hand hold.

[wph36]

I'll be pulling the 4-154 this spring and repower with a 30kw AC motor with regen, and solar.

Would be interested in selling or parting out the perkins if anyone interested.