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Old 23-01-2010, 20:01   #31
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yes it is a 4-108 and I do beleive that you misunderstood or I did not explain the RPM thing right.

When I first got the boat the temp would show 125 degree at 1400 rpm when you went above that the temp went up to 175 never ran it over that temp, over the 3 years I had the boat I have taken the boat out alot 2-3 times a week, the temp always bothered me so I took the heat exchanger off and had it cleaned after I was able to run above 2200 rpm before the temp would get up to 175 degree. It has always been something I would watch very close because something I never did trust and every time I ran the motor up to 175 degree the next time I used the boat I would have to add water, All clues to a failing head gaskit.

I will start in on the motor tomorrow and post an update on what I find. I did some looking online and so far found a rebuilt 4-108 for 3,500 to $4.500 but feel it is too soon to give up on this motor yet. I love Perkens and know they are very strong and last years.


Dutch.
Dutch, Check to see if the oil is emulsified and or water in it. If so, you might want to check out the oil cooler. Remove one of the lines (engine side) and drain the oil out; then add enough water to fill the water tubes in the cooler. Hang a can under the open fitting; if you're blowing water into the oil (from the cooler) it should run out the open fitting. If its a small leak, this might not show if the stat isn't open; you might have to pressurize the header tank to 10lbs PSI.
One of the most common causes of low level overheating is a plugged air intake; this can also cause the the engine to burn white and black smoke (depending on the throttle setting); as per the service manual.
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Old 23-01-2010, 20:07   #32
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Just take the engine coolant pump off and inspect it. It will only cost you a couple of gaskets.

Then you are not guessing.
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Old 23-01-2010, 20:11   #33
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Thank you all for the advice but I am sure the problem is deeper than just flow, I am calling in a diesel mechanic.

But to answer your question Yes I have very good flow coming out the raw and the cap was replaced a few months ago, another thing that is new; if I leave the cap off and start the motor it will push the water out that means I have compression in the cooling system.

What my plan is to call a diesel mechanic and have them check it get a quote and go from there, I do know I will not pay over $3,000 to fix this one because I know I can get a rebuilt for just alittle more just have to install myself.

Dutch
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Old 23-01-2010, 20:18   #34
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You have done so much so far, removing and inspecting the coolant pump is within your abilities.

Overheating that rapidly is definitely a lack of coolant flow or raw water flow. You have already ruled out raw water flow.

A head gasket would slowly overheat and normally only under load. More load, more overheat. Less load, probably no overheat at all.

To stop the flow of coolant, would most likely be stuck thermostat (you checked it), clogged heat exchanger or passageways (you checked it), air in the system (you checked it).

What is left? Flow. And you yourself said you don't seem to see any.

Water pumps can be eaten away by corrosion, but your impeller probably just fell or broke off.

Just pull it off and look at it. If it is all good, you just need a couple new gaskets to put it back on, then call in the cavalry.
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Old 23-01-2010, 20:36   #35
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Gene,

I do agree that it is not much to finish checking the fresh side and also check the oil cooler and well within something I can do.

But what about the white smoke as soon as you start the motor and compession in the holding tank they are both clear signs of head gasket. To top it off like you said overheating under load is what I had before last night.

Would a diesel mechanic charge to look at it and give a quote??

Dutch
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Old 23-01-2010, 20:41   #36
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Ok I just check the oil and it is a little low but no sign of any water good news

Dutch
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Old 23-01-2010, 21:34   #37
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Originally Posted by johnar View Post
Gene,

Would a diesel mechanic charge to look at it and give a quote??

Dutch
Most likely. And, you really DO want to pay someone to have a good look...not a freebie. It's well worth it. Just be sure you get a good recommendation for a qualified diesel mechanic.

Re: fresh water flow, on a 4-108 fresh water pump, there are TWO gaskets between the pump and the engine block, with a thin metal plate between the gaskets. THESE GASKETS ARE NOT IDENTICAL. A shade-tree mechanic in the BVI once installed a new water pump for me and put identical gaskets on. That gave me absolute fits for a couple of years (overheating) until I flew my own trusted diesel mechanic down to have a look. Took him less than an hour to find three problems, including the wrong gasket. Well worth it, 'cuz in a couple of hours the engine was purring along like new and we could go sailing for a couple of days :-)

Bill
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Old 23-01-2010, 21:37   #38
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Go to a good auto parts store and get Block CheK.

See this web page. You can check for blown head gasket yourself...

Test Tools Inc. - Block Chek
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Old 23-01-2010, 21:49   #39
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Gene will you trade me boats? lol man I love your ship
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Old 23-01-2010, 21:56   #40
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Thank you. I love her too.

How comfortable are you with being around rust?
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Old 23-01-2010, 22:05   #41
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Great no water in oil & no oil in water; check the air intake screen. Takes 2 minutes at most.
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Old 23-01-2010, 22:45   #42
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Johnar, Next time you should start your own thread. I just realized half of the symptoms I read are from the original poster, which you are not. I think a few other people misread the thread as well.

I wish the OP had posted the fix or final findings.

For your (johnar) symptoms only, it does sound like the head gasket. You need the block chek I suggested for sure.

Once you confirm it is the head gasket, take a look at repowering vs rebuilding. Overheated engines can need a lot of work to rebuild correctly. Of course, I don't know how bad it was overheated, but I suspect it could have been quite bad the first time when you were asleep.
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Old 23-01-2010, 23:15   #43
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I do agree I should have started another thread,

I did'nt really think I would get as many post back as I did.

I will start one and post what action I take with the out come.

I talk with the wife and she wants me to take the head off and Diy pin the head and block check both pumps, oil cooler air intake and so on. any sign of damage it will be repower over rebuild.

Thank you all for the help and I am sure I will get it all worked out fine.

Dutch
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Old 24-01-2010, 05:02   #44
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Johnar,
Sorry to hear of your problems, but bad things usually happen in the middl of the night. I hope that you did not refill the fresh water tank with cold water and then restart the overheated engine, because that is a good way to either crack the block or warp the cylinder head--much better to keep the engine running and slowly add the water.

Now in the daylight is the time to deal with the loss of coolant--look very carefully to make sure it is not leaking out anywhere--fill cap, hoses, etc. If it is not visible, then there are three other places to check--the hot water heater, the engine heat exchanger, and the head gasket, in that order (my father taught me to always first check the things which are easiest and cheapest to fix).

BTW, if you fill the coolant tank to the top, normal expansion will make it overflow about a cup of water each time you bring the engine to operating temperature. Leave the cap off and watch it heat up--if you see continuing bubbles, that can be a sign of head gasket problems.
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Old 24-01-2010, 12:38   #45
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My Perkins was losing fresh water after every use until I discovered that the overflow line from just below the cap was routed to the bilge!! I rerouted it to a small container on the firewall and no more coolant loss.

I am still curious to know if you have the normal amount of water coming out of the exhaust?
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