Joe, I suspect there's a lot of FUD about synthetics partly because they are "different" and in some cases that makes a difference (old engines, bad seals
, aviation use, etc.) but also because, let's face it, a lot of cheap
auto oil change
business gets done and those folks don't want you to stay away for a year at a time.
On the other hand, Mobil and everyone else in the synoil business put their terms and tech notes out to the world and usually give you the same written warranty that their regular oil
carries: If there is any damage to your engine
from their product, they'll warranty it and pay for it. They started that policy ages ago (1950s? 60s?) when Detroit car dealers said "If you use anyone else's oil, we won't warranty the engine" and eventually that went to court--and they no longer make that threat.
What you have is a "new old stock" diesel
engine. While there may be some continuing questions about break-in time with conventional oil, after 80 hours that is also behind you. Using synoil in a newly broken-in diesel
engine is fine, just get a diesel-rated oil. Yes, it is that simple. Check with Mobil, Shell, Penzoil, Chevron, etc. to find a product you like.
Yes, they really work. When Mobil1 was something brand new, terribly expensive, and unique on the market, I put it in my high-revving car after the first break-in change. Have had it for almost 100kmiles and the engine still has full compression
and no oiling problem, no leaks
, just hums like new.
Yes, Shell(?) had problems insome aviation uses in supercharged engines, but that relates to the special conditions aircraft engines encounter at altitude.
Yes, if you put synoil in an old tired engine, it may actually clean out the crud that is holding some cracks together where gaskets used to be, and they may leak, or burn more oil as itslides past loose pistons. And then again--I know a friend who had one of those old engines, he swore he picked up fuel
mileage because it also lowered internal friction. Go figure.
The oils aren't cheap, but the are warrantied in writing, and you can always have oil testing done (about $22-25 per test) to REALLY see how your engine oil is doing, once or twice a year till you get a baseline.