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Old 01-04-2010, 15:34   #16
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To align the pump, Check for a mark or deep score that goes across the pump and the block on the bolt in the upper left. I say upper left if you are standing behind the engine looking at the pump. The bolt goes through a curved slot that lets you rotate the pump. If there is no mark, make one with a file. If you have to make this mark, discuss this with your mechanic before the rebuild.

This is how it was on mine.

Good luck and back to Leslie.
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Old 02-04-2010, 16:53   #17
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Alright, it took three hours to get the exhaust manifold, header tank, and fuel lines out of the way to get to the pump (including two trips to the local hardware store for stuff I didn't have or left at home). I got the infamous 'set screw' off the injection pump with the allen socket. The one next to the timing marks was easy as well. But the mother of all fasteners is the one on the bottom. How the heck do you get it off? no tool will slip over it because of clearance issues, and an open end will just get on it to crack it loose but there isn't enough clearance left to get it back on for another turn. The assembly that the oil lines come out of is a clearance issue. Also the clearance behind this nut doesn't appear to be adequate to get the nut off after it's loosened. My dad and I scracthed our heads for over an hour and decided Perkins must have come up with their own tool for this one. I'm thinking about putting a 1/2" open end to the grinder. Anyone ever face this? Also, the manual is very vague about the removal of the atomisers. Can someone splain' it to me?

Stumped again....
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Old 14-04-2010, 23:52   #18
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search moon wrenches, off set wrenches,
Google Image Result for http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/03/Bent%20Wrenches.jpg

I forgot what it is call but this beauty has helped me more than once
http://www.restockit.com/images/Prod...069-12-854.jpg

armstrong makes this tool http://lh3.ggpht.com/_nu35IiPOyWY/Sc...d,%2017mm).JPG

and this one http://www.healeyjournal.com/images/...rowsfeetfs.jpg
this one is a favorite, it may not look like much, but when partnered with a good rachet driver, when you can only move a wrench about 1 degree....it is your best friend


You may have to remove an oil/hydrulic line to get at the bolt, if one of the above tools doesn't help, consider grinding down a wrench head, or even cutting a wrench in half


perkins/westerbeke had a little more elbow room when they were manufacturing....
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Old 15-04-2010, 00:11   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maddog View Post
When the pump shaft finally slid into place it was more gratifying
Oh how I know that feeling!!!
I had to reseal my pump 2 months ago.

It took forever, mirror, twist here, shake there, feeling it with your fingers for the alignment!, when it finally when in....what a release!

Between the injector pump and the starter, there is nothing harder exept pulling the engine itself! (at least for a challenger 32 installation)

Stay calm, get the right tools, you will be very satisfied once it is over!
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Old 15-04-2010, 09:01   #20
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I'm with you Goldie. The starter was no problem, injection pump was a lot harder due to the alignement issues. What kills me is the damn oil filter. I injured my right elbow 20 years ago and can't straighten it out all the way. I have the original filter that hangs horizontally off the lower portion of the block on the port side of the engine. It's a two handed operation reaching through 2 different lockers and around the exhaust manifold, injector pump and my bad attitude. I will gladly take my starter off and on a doz times before I work up the courage to change that damn filter, (I do it every year wether it needs it or not).
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Old 15-04-2010, 10:22   #21
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get some oil lines and a different filter bracket, and move that sucker.
Mines on the aft part of the engine mounted above the heat exchanger.

You could even mount it on a bulk head.

Get the screw on kind like a normal car or truck.

less than a hundred bucks if you look right.

Worth it!
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Old 26-04-2010, 07:01   #22
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Thanks to all of you for your advice and opinion. The pump is now installed, and the engine is cured. I think the pump was going bad for the last three years because a lot of problems seem to be fixed like the black sooty smoke when the engine was first started. No more surging. Turns out one of my injectors was cracked as well. I'm $700.00 lighter in the pocket but man was it worth it! I ended up grinding down the closed end of a 1/2" wrench to about 1/8" thin in order to tighten the demon nut on the bottom of the pump. I will keep my homemade tool on board. Kudos to the British engineer with his slide rule who figured out how to "shoehorn" that pump in there (it is possible), but it's a lot like a rubic's cube. So he should be shot. I figure I saved at least one grand on labor by tackling it myself. I am no longer ascared of my engine.
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