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Old 06-10-2009, 11:04   #1
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Perkins 4-107 Won't Stop Blowing Head Gaskets

History- Boat purchased used 3 years ago. Operated a little. Got blow out of the fresh water cooling and did a tear down to R&R the head Gasket. Couldnt remove the head. Took all day to wedge it up little by little to finally it was off. Soot from the combustion was packed in the studs causing the removal problem.

Replaced the gasket with Perkins gasket and add the blue gasket sealer to water openings. Engine ran 6 hours then blew gasket. Removed the head and took it TAD to find a crack. $1500 later on goes the recon head. Ran 3 hours and blew the head gasket again. Removed the head and got a Victor head gasket which was .006 thinker. Ran a tap and die on all head studs and nuts torque it to 46 foot pounds+.
Ran 3 hours and blew #3 exhaust spitting out from blown gasket.

So here we are. Something is not right with this engine. Anyone seen this before.

I would think there is a jug or liner issue. Help!

David
Been there done that except, not this....

Video showing this vessel 1 hour before the gasket let go this time.
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:32   #2
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Maybe is bent, if the head is not straight with the block , is going to burn all the gaskets you put in, for my looks like a bent head, the block is going to be fine because is made of iron, but the head is alu, and sometimes a overheating experience bent and distort the head, Cheers.
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:36   #3
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Sorry i mean bend , not bent , problems with my HP keyboard, Lol!!!
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:48   #4
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Bent works. I would not to use gasket seal. I think that a clean straight surface was needed. I only get bent on saturday night.
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:54   #5
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I think neilpride has it. It sounds like a warped head. Perhaps GMac or Gordo can shead more light on the matter but unless it's really out, you should be able to get the head machined (sometimes also known as planed) for not a heck of a lot. With that you might want to remachine the valves and valve seats as well.

FWIW...
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:12   #6
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Skim head, reseat valves and overhaul water pump. For peace of mind I would also change head bolts.
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:24   #7
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I thought you had the head rebuilt?? ("Recon") if so , it surely was ground flat...? If not , you didnt take it to a good place. This is pretty wierd... look for etching into the top block surface.... little lower spots where water/pressure has been eating away at the metal. how did you clean the block top surface? it needs to be spic and span and filed clean. Then put a straight edge on it to make sure it is flat. A good head and good engine should not need sealant on the head gasket at all and frankly, thinner head gaskets are less prone to blowing...
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:48   #8
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TAD would probably notice a warped head during the rebuild but it's a possibility. With the head off and the cylinder block surface clean use a straight edge and back lighting to see if any liner upper surfaces are raised above the block.
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Old 06-10-2009, 13:49   #9
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2 different heads same problem

The perkins 4-107 was leaking head gasket on both the old head and the TAD reman planned reworked head. There must be something wrong on the block-liners.
Has anyone seen the 4-107 do this
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Old 06-10-2009, 13:49   #10
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Does the head gasket always blow at the same place?
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Old 06-10-2009, 13:56   #11
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It blows on #3-#2 towards the side
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Old 06-10-2009, 14:14   #12
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Sounds like when is getting warm something is expanding that should not be. I am assuming you are torquing in correct order and properly. Since you have had same problem with different heads and your block is verified flat and spotless when reassembling, the next time I would run it till its warm and re-torque head bolts as a check. It could be caused by uneven cooling?? Let us know. I have a 4107 but have not had it for long.
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Old 06-10-2009, 14:21   #13
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Unless you have a machining backround you may not understand what flat and smooth mean.
A scratch that is deep enough that the gasket won't seal it or deform enough to fill it -- is fatal. Once gas finds a way under the gasket, it will overheat and weaken and it's all toast. If the block is flat it should be stoned smooth, that will also show up any defects.
Both the head and block have to be flat and smooth. Try putting the head on without a gasket or nuts, check all the way around with a feeler gauge looking for a gap.
A good engine man would have seen it on the first go-round.

The other issue is torqueing the head. To get accurate torque, the bolts and nuts must be clean and lubed. Follow the pattern for tightening sequence. Re-torque after running a few hours.
Do not retorque when the block is warm!
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Old 06-10-2009, 14:21   #14
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A pyrometer could spot a hot spot caused by plugged passage.
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Old 06-10-2009, 19:52   #15
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The head may have been machined past its minimum thickness.
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