Perkins 4-107 injector pump diagram

[Starboardtack]

Greetings,
I have a Perkins 4-107 that is leaking fuel from the throttle control arm. Does anybody have a diagram of the fuel pump showing the interior parts ?

Thank you,
Starboardtack

[Irish rambler]

I would suggest respectfully that you remove the pump and take it to a specialist shop to be overhauled as overall the most cost effective method.

[model 10]

Well I would suggest that you go ahead and change the little O ring that's under there if you don't want to spend the $1000 for a pump ovhl because it's pretty easy.

[Irish rambler]

Sheesh Guy ! That's an awful lot of bucks for a simple reset and clean. Some guys have no conscience if they charge that kinda money. Just as an aside the same engine is fitted to Massey Ferguson tractors so get it done via a local MF dealer and it's way way cheaper than any 'marine' shop.

[model 10]

Oh sure, thats what they get out here. They do a bang-up job but sure a boat buck for the pump ovhl with injectors. I don't think they just do a re-seal anymore.

[shakey doug]

G'day,
A quick Google search of DPA Fuel Pump will show numerous diagrams. A Throttle body Seal kit will cost Aprox $50 for a Hydraulic Govenor unit and take around 1 hr and a 1/4''AF spanner to fit in situ. No real skill involved.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Starboardtack.

➥ http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/Lu...ion%20book.pdf

➥ http://l-36.com/manuals/CAV-DPA-Pump-Rebuild-Manual.pdf

[Dynamo1181]

There have been several threads in the past on replacing the o ring. I suggest you do a search on the subject. Perhaps a more savey "searcher" could find and post these past threads.
A

[Redcoat]

I thought mine was was leaking. but after tearing it down to the pump and messing with it. I discovered that it was the back bottom pressure line that needed tightening. It would drip like it was leaking from the top. So before you break something. Pull the starter and get a small 9/16 if I remember correctly and reach up there and give it a snug. And be glad your not 10 miles away from Cedros Island.

[Starboardtack]

Thank you for the many responses.

I have retrieved the manuals that GordMay has generously provided. However the manual does not show the interior of the throttle housing or where the "o" ring is.
I have the fuel pump out, not an easy task in the confined torture chamber of a Mariner 32. With the fuel pump in front of me it looks tantalizingly do-able. I did previously talk to Foley's on the phone and they said not to do it as it would be a nightmare and he advised me to replace the whole pump. Then while searching on line I came across a previous thread on the "Cruiser's Forum" talking about this same problem, so I joined this happy band yesterday hoping to find out whether others have indeed fixed it themselves.
So what should I do ? Has anybody out there actually done it ?

Again thanks, all of you for taking the time to respond. I do appreciate it.

Starboardtack

[model 10]

If I remember right you take of the arm, then the little plate and there is the O ring. Mark the shaft and the arm. Mine was a CAV pump.

[Emmalina]

Had the same problem on my dpa cav Just finished putting it back together. It cost about 5usd in O rings and copper washers to rebuild but its ok now. I don't know exactly what type of cav pump you have but the only hard part for me was finding the way to change the 2 o rings on the throttle shaft till I played with my spare IP and found a way to get the shaft out .. Good luck

[troppo1]

emmalina, I have just got this problem, leaking from throttle shaft, have to pump the air out to start it if left for a few days.

How did you get the shaft out?
thks

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, troppo1.

[troppo1]

what I have found on the web ( bedankt Jan, thanks to Jan for the foto's ) to change the O rings on the throttle shaft so far is:

get a 1/4 sae 12 sided spanner or socket to get the bolt out, zie foto2.

Take out the bolt to be able to get the shaft out, foto3

foto 4 to see the 2 O rings on the shaft to be replaced

Take out the antistall body part, after marking, measuring to get it back in the exact same place later. Loosen the locknut and turn the bolt all the way out with bleed screw and locknut in place. foto 7

push a pin or something into the pump body to push the spring? down, to be able to get the shaft back in. foto 5.

and bingo, just make sure you mark everything to go back in the right place and the Pull to Stop kabel has to be in the Run position.

foto 6 is all the parts.

I have not tried this yet but will be after the winter layup here in holland. Also taking the manifold off and cleaning the lowline heat exchanger and flushing the whole sytem out.
hope this helps someone else having the same probs I am having.