Perkins 4-107 cylinder liners

[model 10]

How hard are they to remove? Can you knock them out with a block of wood or do you need to make a puller? If you need the puller, could you use hard plastic instead of metal for the plug in the end of the old liner?

[newhaul]

The manual should tell you the best way to do that job if you don't have it here is a link to it for free
http://www.islander36.org/Perkins%20Shop%20Manual.pdf

[Lepke]

The shop manual says to use a puller, but it's possible without - just difficult. There are rubber seals in grooves in the block near the cylinder bottom. Once free of the seals, the liner comes out easily.

[model 10]

45 year old rubber seals would be stiff. I was thinking about leaving the crank installed and changing the bearings in place. That would limit use of a big hammer to drive the liners out, so a puller would be better.

[bsurvey]

if you are changing the rod bearings it is not wise to not to change the main bearings.
a puller can be rented for a automotive parts place, you can take the stripped down block to a machine shop and they will replace the liners for you


or you can make your own puller with flat steel plates cut with circles and use thick all thread for the center bolt, top and bottom


a little heat might help if necessary. maybe I got lucky but they popped right out

[model 10]

Originally Posted by bsurvey

if you are changing the rod bearings it is not wise to not to change the main bearings.
a puller can be rented for a automotive parts place, you can take the stripped down block to a machine shop and they will replace the liners for you
or you can make your own puller with flat steel plates cut with circles and use thick all thread for the center bolt, top and bott
a little heat might help if necessary. maybe I got lucky but they popped right out

I hope I get lucky too. There are no tool rental places in the jungle where the boat is so I need to make my own puller to take down with me. I am changing the main bearings but leaving the crank in place, probably.

[Lepke]

If you don't know this trick: when changing main bearings, find a screw that fits the crank oil hole and grind down the head until it's the same thickness as the bearing shells. After the bearing cap is removed, put the screw in an oil hole, rotate the crank and the top bearing slides out easily. Also for installing the new one.

[model 10]

Originally Posted by Lepke

If you don't know this trick: when changing main bearings, find a screw that fits the crank oil hole and grind down the head until it's the same thickness as the bearing shells. After the bearing cap is removed, put the screw in an oil hole, rotate the crank and the top bearing slides out easily. Also for installing the new one.

I do know that trick and I hope to use it, thanks.

[wunderluster]

I thought the 4-108 had sleeves, and not the 4-107. I may be wrong

[slacker]

4-108 has wet liners. Much easier to remove.

[model 10]

Originally Posted by wunderluster

I thought the 4-108 had sleeves, and not the 4-107. I may be wrong

The 107 has wet liners. I have 4 brand new ones pn# 313581116 sitting right next to me.

[shakey doug]

The very early 4.107 used a two seal ring liner set up inherited from the 4.99 later motors have a three ring setup. Do not forget to clean the liner weep holes, while you have them out. I have driven many a Perkins liner out using wooden blocks and a 7lb talking tool.

[model 10]

Originally Posted by shakey doug

The very early 4.107 used a two seal ring liner set up inherited from the 4.99 later motors have a three ring setup. Do not forget to clean the liner weep holes, while you have them out. I have driven many a Perkins liner out using wooden blocks and a 7lb talking tool.

A 7lb hammer is big. I have made a puller so I am all set. Thanks for the tip on the weep holes.