I agree with you, im sure that this thing could be made to run. The powerhead runs great thats three quarters of the battle.
Last year my mechanic tried to remove the prop but it was pretty seized, probably due to corrosion
when it was on the bottom of the channel. I dont know how long it was down there.
While it may be somewhat cheaper to price
out the replacement parts and rebuild
the lower end, i think a whole new lower leg assembly and shift rod would probably run me three quarters of the cost of the engine my mechanic is willing to sell me for $1500 and when i factor in the time it will take to get the parts and get them installed im off the water for the rest of boating
season anyways. Im not mechanically uninclined, but not particularly inclined either. Doing a build like that will inevitably come along with needing to buy a raft of small items like gasket
maker, odd andle ratchet extensions and in the end i may not trust the motor like i need to.
Thats why im figuring i might give it to my mechanic and ask for a bit off the new one, he can probably fix it with new or used parts and turn a little profit.
I knew it.was tongue in cheek i laughed when i saw that
I think this is the wrong motor to convert to electric. The powerhead works great and the gearbox
and lower leg are trashed.
Interesting idea though, if it was the other way around i might have considered that. Power here is pretty cheap
because its all hydro (6 cents / kw/h ) and removal
of the fuel
tanks would leave a lot of space for batteries. No more jerry can hassles and goodbye to all the noise
While what you suggest is possible last year i noticed the coffee cream floaties last year when starting too. Plus there was the metal shavings and high pressure water in the lower leg when the mechanic tried replacing the gear oil, so water getting in there was already a problem. Maybe the lower seal problems were exacerbated by my changing the impeller, but i cant get the prop off due to corrosion and there was no other way to change the impeller by design.
I think this is just an old motor that needs a total lower end rebuild
, these things wear out, its a mid 80s motor so these parts have been used for 30 years now. Im sure it can be restored but i doubt im the right man for the job. If i pay a mechanic to do it i may as well buy a new motor and save myself the time.
Im interested in this debate about 2 vs 4 stroke
. I was under the impression that 4 strokes are superior to two strokes. More reliable, easier to maintain, more fuel
efficient, quieter, less pollution, no mixing gas. 2 stroke
engines will always be superior for some applications requiring the engine to be operated at a variety of angles, like chainsaws and hedge trimmers and other similarly tasked handheld small engines.
Is the main complaint against 4 strokes their smaller carb venturi getting gummed up with ethanol in the fuel? I always disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until it stops if im not back up to the boat the following week, and everybody here at the yc raves about yammy four stroke outboards as the platinum outboard engine.
I did a walk around the docks just to see what kind of options are available on sailboats for outboards (remotes, etc) and save for a few sub 6 hp rigs, every other outboard mounted on a sailboat here is a grey yamaha 9.9 four stroke. And im the only one griping about engine troubles constantly two years in a row.