(on/off) Perkins PRIMA M60

[Blongsea]

I recently became "The Captain" of an old Beneteau Oceanis 440 equipped with a raft of exotic stuff incl a Perkins Prima M60. I love this beaut yacht, but the engine is a bit smoky (White gray smoke that stinks a little) compared with my old/sold Lexen designed Olympic 40. This is bad, but is it serious?

I also have had problem with the kill-switch on the Perkins panel and had to use the manual engine snuffer. Next it works perfectly again - for a good while.

Then a new problem at the opposite end - starting the thing. Not a whimper! Normally I never use the pre-heating (starts instantly anyway even after a long break) but after using this button the panel wakes up and start button works. Seems weird!

I also noticed when I turn back a manual charge-regulator control-button, it may create this problem. Turning it up again engages the alternator for longer and can create a charge-current of over 15 volt!!!

If you haven't figured it out: "No Sir, I know nothing much about diesel engines". However I hope someone have a few kind and bright comments following this information?

[shakey doug]

Firstly make sure ALL filters are clean including air intake . Aussie smoke is White/GREYthis indicates incorrect fuel burn possibley caused by bad injectors or hp fuel pump delivery valves. Over time this condition will cause cylinder part problems Leading to compression loss and hard starting

Clean all your electrical connections for corrossion & tightness pay close attention to the ground side of things, also remove all fuses and clean with sandpaper or emery.

[steve.garlick]

I'm currently diagnosing my Prima M50 (virtually the same engine). The stop button is delivering 14.5V across the one lead going to it. I figure this means that the stop solenoid is not functioning, rather than faulty wiring from the switch harness or the panel. YOu could try this test.

STeve

[Blongsea]

OK, that sounds like common sense, thank you. I will follow the advice of Doug and Steve. Especialy the air-filter. I have some work done by a diesel mechanic (must be one of few remaining on the Eastern Australian seaboard) and this will probably set me back at least $1,500.00 Aussie dollares. New time belt, new water-pump, new hour-meter and all filters. BOAT: bring-out-another-thousand

[steve.garlick]

Usually the hour meter is a part of the tacho. Are you replacing the tacho as well? I'd be interested in the details of that.

REgards,

Steve

[Strait Shooter]

Originally Posted by Blongsea

I also have had problem with the kill-switch on the Perkins panel and had to use the manual engine snuffer.

I have the same engine but am unaware of how to use the "manual engine snuffer", can anyone clue me in?

[Allan S]

Shooter, if it is what I think it is, it is a flap that will close the air supply off to the engine, starving it into submission. At least that is the only way i stop my diesel.

[Strait Shooter]

Thanks Allan,
I'll look for something like that, don't really remember seeing it though.

[brankin]

Two things that you might look at. It sounds like you have an intermittent ground problem. The first thing I would look at is the alternator. It has a diode that provides the ground to the control panel and as the engine starts, it switches to a positive current which shuts off the starting circuit. If that diode is intermittent, the control panel will not light up. The other thing to look at is the negative relay on the back of the engine. There are three relays back there and if my memory serves me, the starboard relay is the negative. Look for a broken wire or corrosion. the relays are interchangeable so that is how you test the relay itself.

[Hooked]

Originally Posted by Allan S

Shooter, if it is what I think it is, it is a flap that will close the air supply off to the engine, starving it into submission. At least that is the only way i stop my diesel.

On the M50, there is a lever on the fuel pump. Spring loaded. You pull the lever and the engine will stop. Manual fuel shut off.