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Old 03-01-2009, 09:27   #16
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Do you also know the "trick" for checking Yanmar oil?

Pull the stick wipe it off...insert...the pull out till rubber stopper comes out then shove back in.......I have hada couple of customers who have over filled theirs because when the just push it in and pull it out, the pressure actually forces the oil down the tube just a bit and makes it appear that the engine is low.
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:42   #17
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... Pull the stick wipe it off...insert...the pull out till rubber stopper comes out then shove back in.......I have hada couple of customers who have over filled theirs because when they just push it in and pull it out, the pressure actually forces the oil down the tube just a bit and makes it appear that the engine is low.
Good tip, Chief !
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Old 03-01-2009, 12:39   #18
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I have the Yanmar 3GM30 and its about the same age as the original poster. I too had difficulty finding the level mark...never considered I was plunging it downward. Good tip re. moving the rubber stop. Last season I added about a quart 15/40 at the end of the season, but was uncertain w the mark... So now I understand why. Maybe, I hope, we'll see
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Old 03-01-2009, 15:29   #19
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I am going to second Chuck's possible cause. The Yamar guy told me almost no one breaks them in according to the manual and they therefore shorten the life of these engines. My new Yanmar break in specs required the engine to be run at Wide Open Throttle for 4-5 minutes every half hour for the first 50 hours and at WOT minus 200 RPM every half hour. Then valves were to be reset at 50 hours. Could be that the valves and rings have not set.
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Old 03-01-2009, 16:05   #20
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RAY - Do you think it might help to try that break in routine now? I doubt it but what do I know.
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Old 03-01-2009, 16:14   #21
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Usually once the cylinder walls are glazed, running the engine is not going to change it. Of course I am not a engine mechanic.
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Old 03-01-2009, 16:35   #22
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While a multigrade oil maybe acceptable it is not ideal. Recently I purchased KP44 with 4JHte engine which previous owner had been using 15w40. I noticed that the engine tended to smoke at low revs particularly. As it had done some 3000 hours I was concerned about life expectancy, Iam a professional automotive mechanic so I looked into possible causes other than just the hours. After reading the Yanmar manual and talking to the local oil tech guys I changed to a thirty monograde oil. Then I proceded to make a point of not running the motor at low RPM 2200min most days. Pump timing, injectors, tappets etc were all checked as well. Slowly but surely the smoke problem (oil burning) was cured. Yanmar tech guy told me that most yachties do not run the engines hard enough (rpm)
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Old 03-01-2009, 16:45   #23
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While on dip stick things. I have a 3JH3E and when I pull the dip stick after a day or three it shows low oil. If I then push it back in and out it shows full sort of like oil has been sucked up the tube on the first pull and is now showing oil in the tube. Wondered about this for some time now and would just love an explanation.
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Old 03-01-2009, 16:54   #24
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That is true...most sailors start the engine....once they can get the sails up...off goes the engine.....sail until the last possible moment....start the engine tie up.....

very hard on an engine.....very hard
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Old 03-01-2009, 16:55   #25
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Read Post #16 from me

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While on dip stick things. I have a 3JH3E and when I pull the dip stick after a day or three it shows low oil. If I then push it back in and out it shows full sort of like oil has been sucked up the tube on the first pull and is now showing oil in the tube. Wondered about this for some time now and would just love an explanation.
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Old 03-01-2009, 19:56   #26
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30 minutes minimum

My mechanic, who offers diesel classes said these engines should be run for a minimum of 30 minutes and not at idle speeds. He eats, sleeps and breaths these engines, so I listen.
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Old 03-01-2009, 20:24   #27
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Point of Comparison

For what it's worth for comparison, both of my two Yanmar 3GM30's burn oil at the rate that takes the level from the high mark on the dipstick to the low mark without additions between oil changes, every 150 hours.
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Old 04-01-2009, 06:17   #28
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RAY - Do you think it might help to try that break in routine now? I doubt it but what do I know.

I don't know if it would help. I would agree with Chuck that probably once a glaze is there, there is no way to get it out other than taking down the engine. However, I cannot see that it would hurt to do the break in routine. The specs for my Yanmar engine say that it is designed to spend 5% of its total running life hours at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) and most of the rest above 80% of max RPM (think about how many people you know who do this). They recommend about three times that amount of WOT in the first 50 hours of operation (which seems so irrational to old Model T sensibiities that few do it). Also, they suggest that any extended idling or running to charge batteries be followed by WOT operation. I would exhaust all other reasons that have been suggested in this thread to confirm that your dipstick reading is not an anomaly caused by something other than burning. I have had the same experience as mentioned with getting an incorrect reading from the temporary vacuum in the dipstick tube. If I ruled out the possibility of anomaly in the dipstick reading, I would do the break in if it was my engine.
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Old 04-01-2009, 07:21   #29
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Thank you to everyone. I am in the process of trying all of your suggestions. Again, what a wonderful forum this is!
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Old 22-01-2009, 20:59   #30
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I bpught a pickup ruck from a dealer that his son owned. It appeared to be in great shape with only 16,000 miles on it. After driving a couple of hundred miles it used a quart of oil. I found out that the kid never broke in the engine. I had to drive it to California from Oklahoma to get everything to seat. Sounds like you may have a similar problem. You might try giving the engine a good work out for a long time, say equivalent to a five hundred mile drive. Of course that was a GMC and not a Yanmar and we were using 10W40 synthetic. Now have 250,000 miles with only an oil change every 3,000.
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