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Old 24-04-2005, 18:39   #1
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Oil changes made easier?

Hi,

I just spent the evening with a very good friend Bruce who was the chief engineer on an LNG tanker. He also owns a 36' sport fisherman. He has suggested that I install a pump out system on my Perkins 4-108 to be able to change my oil by pulling the oil from the drain plug to a small pump then into a disposal container. The only other way I can change the oil is by pullling it out through the dip stick - which seems to me to be a very poor way of doing this! I can't see how this method really removes any of the **** in the bottom of the oil pan.

I like Bruce's idea and I plan on raising the engine off of the beds anyway so I can access the oil pan. I would install a flexible line (high quality, possible braided stanless stuff) off of the drain plug and up to the pump.

Any ideas on this??

Thanks,

Scott
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Old 24-04-2005, 19:57   #2
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I have a M25 universal and I have installed on my engine, really works great. I think it was a kit. I have had the boat for 10 years with no problems. If you want I can fax you a copy.
John
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Old 24-04-2005, 21:21   #3
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I have a 6-354 Perkins. Same thing. Infact, I can't think of any engine that had an easy means of removing the oil. You would think a "real" marinised engine would have a purpose built system. But anyway's, the oil bung on my sump is at the bottom, but side mounted to the sump pan. So I fitted in order, a brass thread adaptor-valve-brass hose tale. it all comes to the side of the engine mount bed and easy to access. I just fit on a hose and oil suction pump when I want to remove the oil and turn on the valve. I purposely did not leave a hose fitted. Just personal pref, but I didn't want the chance of a hose failure and I wanted to be positive the valve had been closed at the end of the removal process. But I see no major reason for not leaving a hose fitted, providing it is a good one and capable of standing some heat.
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Old 25-04-2005, 00:16   #4
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My last boat, a Catalina 34, had a steel braid hose attached directly to the oil pan drain plug. I cut the end of the hose fartherst from the drain and attached a 12v pump to it. Oil changes (including the crap at the bottom) could be accomplished in a few minutes. A quick filter change and we were back in business in less than 15 minutes. (I, obviously, replaced the oil and filter with new.)

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Old 25-04-2005, 02:44   #5
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Make sure you change your oil often enough to avoid the accumulation of "****" in the oil pan. If having an automated system will help you do that, by all means install it.



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Old 15-10-2008, 15:15   #6
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Accessign the oil filter?

I have an old 2.52 BMC (Leyland/Thornycroft) 4 cylinder diesel engine (on an old boat I bought), in which I did my first oil change by sucking the oil from the dipstick hole. Thank you for the ideas in the above posts and I will try to see if I can install something as you suggest on the oil drain (if I can find it... I will look for it .

My question is: how do you normally change the oil filter?. Mine is set low in the engine, in between the engine and the bedding where the motor mounts bolt on, kind of wedged in that narrow hole. I can't access it from the top, and I dont think that even with the floor boards removed that I can access it from the bottom, where I need to unscrew the bolt holding the filter (I would have to snake my arm below the engine). So I am suspicious that the filter has ever been replaced in 30 years.

Assuming I can get it off:

Could I place extension hoses and put the filter somewhere else?
Why is the filter held by a metal housing directly next to the engine?
What happens if I connect the filter with hoses and move it higher up? Does it rely on gravity and must be placed low in the engine?

Thanks,
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Old 15-10-2008, 16:03   #7
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Scott,
Reverso is the only way to go with this. Your CL is a PIA to say the least. Make it easier on your self.
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Old 15-10-2008, 16:05   #8
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I think you will find raising the engine (if you mean permanently) will be a pretty big job, including realigning the shaft / transmission, maybe more trouble than it is worth. I think if you ask around you will find the crap, if any,in the bottom of the oil pan does not really cause much damage to the engine anyway, most diesel engines die from other causes, water intrusion, or overheating than wearing out. In my humble opinion if you perform oil and filter changes at recommended intervals you will get a long life from your engine. If you are worried take an oil sample and have it analized to see if there are dangerous levels of contaminats circulating in your oil.
Good luck
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Old 15-10-2008, 16:39   #9
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High oil filter...

The oil filter that came with the John Deere that I put into Boracay came with long hoses so it was easy to mount it high for good access.

They also provided a hand pump connected to the bottom of the sump.

I got the impression that they really wanted the oil changed at regular intervals.
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Old 15-10-2008, 17:52   #10
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I use a tempo pump through the dipstick and it takes a few pumps and it's very clean.

The problem for me has always been the oil filter which is mounted on the side of the engine and will invariably spill as it is unscrewed. To defeat the mess I place some oil absorbant clothe under the filter and toss it out after.

Oil changes are not all that neat, but after all this time (22 years) I can do them without a mess.
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Old 15-10-2008, 20:05   #11
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I find a number of engines that have the filter mounted on a bracket...Fords come to mind.....the way many of them are mounted, the open end of the filter is "down".

Witha little planning and ingenuity you can relocate this....just use the best quality hose/fittings you can.

Also, check on the side of your oil pan.....some, like A-4's have a plug on the caruretor side that can be used for oil extraction.
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Old 15-10-2008, 22:04   #12
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To make changing the oil filter a neater job I use a 1 gallon size freezer zip lock bag. Put it around the filter, mine mounts horizontally so I hold it tight to the block underneath, and unscrew it. With a little practice you should be able to do it without spilling a drop into the bilge. I use two bags just for insurance. Smaller filters might be able to use smaller bags.

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Old 17-10-2008, 14:18   #13
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Sorry to press the point.. but I have not gotten a clear answer.
imagine the filter sits very low in the engine in a nearly inaccessible point.

1) Why does the filter sit that low?
2) can I remove the filter and filter housing, connect hoses to the block where the filter use to be and move the filter to a more accessible location?
3) or is it the case that gravity plays a role and the filter must reside that low corresponding to the engine?

thanks,
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Old 17-10-2008, 15:09   #14
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Manufacturer/Dealer?

Have you asked the manufacturer or dealer what they think?
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Old 17-10-2008, 15:23   #15
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Yes - There are numerous Remote Oil Filter Adapters (Non-Bypass) available.

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrejsv View Post
... 2) can I remove the filter and filter housing, connect hoses to the block where the filter use to be and move the filter to a more accessible location? ...
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