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stoupidmonkey · 23-10-2007, 16:27

So the gauges on my perkins 4/108 are shot. Not really sure if it is just the gauges or if the sensors are kaput too. The tach and alternator gauges work fine, but the water temp, oil pressure and fuel level are all shot. Do I need to replace them with the same type or could I use aftermarket gauges? Cant find any good places to buy either. Thanks for any help on this issue.

never monday · 23-10-2007, 16:54

the primary question is. Do you want mechanical or electric gauges? Most any gauge will work with the correct sending unit.

stoupidmonkey · 23-10-2007, 17:09

mechanical is likely what I will be using. Hopefully my sending units are in operation and it is just a bunch of dead gauges. Is there anything I can do to test the health of the sending unit?

never monday · 23-10-2007, 17:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by stoupidmonkey

mechanical is likely what I will be using. Hopefully my sending units are in operation and it is just a bunch of dead gauges. Is there anything I can do to test the health of the sending unit?

I think your misunderstanding the definition of mechanical gauges vs electrical vs digital.

True mechanical gauges have a capillary tube of some sort allowing engine fluids to reach the gauge to give a direct reading.

Electrical gauges have a sending unit transducer that converts the pressure/temp of the fluid to an analog electrical value then transmits this to the gauge over a wire.

Digital gauges use a similar sending unit/transducer set up but provide a digital signal to the gauge over a wire.

stoupidmonkey · 23-10-2007, 20:33

Hmm... So I guess Ill just have to pull them out to see what type they are. Thanks for the help!

**David M** · 23-10-2007, 22:00

Modern electrical gauges sense usually by changes in resistance in ohms or by changes voltage. Sometimes there are direct pressure tubes or hoses. For pressure senders, it's a no brainer...pressure is pressure and there is no conversion. There is quite a bit of standardization for guages that sense using electricity. In most cases you can use a newer gauge to replace an original older gauge. Go into the manufacturers website to find out what the standards for that particular engines resistance/voltage or whatever. You will then be able to find after market gauges that will work for you. The exception are really modern systems that are using Ethernet like communication connections which are proprietary to that company..this is the exception where you will have no choice but to buy the original gauges. Cummins SmartCraft systems are an example of this, in my opinion, nonsense.

delmarrey · 23-10-2007, 23:54

GordMay posted a nice review on gauges here: http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...sting-645.html

BTW Mechanical gauges require little distance between the motor and panel with difficulty creating access for the capillary to pass.

Where electrial gauges are the choice for long and hard-to-get-to runs.........._/)

**GordMay** · 24-10-2007, 01:26

See also:

Wiring Diagrams:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/gallery...=500&userid=79

Testing Instructions:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/gallery...=500&userid=79

Sender Resistance:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/gallery...=500&userid=79

Lancerbye · 24-10-2007, 03:14

Before you start replacing unless you really want to it for other reasons. Read the above and test them. Your problems might be nothing more than a bad ground which is common or Supply .

spodaisy · 24-10-2007, 16:53

Hello All
I'm new to the list I was wandering what gauge system you use or would recommend any in put would be appreciated

**Ex-Calif** · 24-10-2007, 17:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lancerbye

Before you start replacing unless you really want to it for other reasons. Read the above and test them. Your problems might be nothing more than a bad ground which is common or Supply .

Amen to that.

All the guages on our boat were inop except tach when we got her. I disasembled the guage package and cleaned all the wiring connections, removed all the bulbs and cleaned the contact areas of the bulb and sockets, I pulled the connections at each sending unit and cleaned them.

All the lights now work. The only thing still inop is the warning buzzer but and I suspect the buzzer itself is shot.