Its 5:00am for the fourth night in a row, its 17 degrees and I'm crawling around the motor
some more. I'm going to try to be thorough to minimize how many more nights I've got to have like this. Wandering my way around several of the web sites provided I'm fairly sure the motor is in fact an M-12, though the pictures I've seen aren't 100% exactly like my motor, I did find an M-25 that is a carbon copy other than the fact that the M-25 has a third cylinder.
Mwahahaha, Making progress already and I didn't even have to get my hands too dirty on that one!
Rummaging through an online manual does show that what I originally thought might be my gear shifter really is the emergency
shut off. Before I sound too much like the idiot my nearest and dearest know me to be the cable does run to the back of the cockpit
and connects to a shifter. Weird huh? when the shifter is in 'neutral' the shut off is set to half on half off, when shifted to forward its on, and when shifted into reverse its off. I got the back of the boat opened up and found the back of the shifter is directly attached to the shut off via a swing linkage, and the actual shift cable is hanging off to the side doing nothing. For what its worth when I pull up on the real shift cable the motor tried to spin the prop while turning over, which I guess means I don't have a hydro-something or other tranny.
Now, back to the task at hand! I double checked the glow plugs, both showed 1.5 ohms resistance, not trusting it I pulled off each in turn and ground the thread to the engine block and they both heated up beautifully. Glow plugs thoroughly check. Next I opened up the fuel
bleeder and ran the fuel pump
geysered out like it was old faithful, definitely no air in the injector pump
. Next I pulled each injector line at the cylinder and ran the pump, wasn't Niagara falls, but squirts were definitely happening.
Several posts said the motor doesn't have a starting solenoid, I'm no mechanic
, however theres definitely something next to the starter that looks pretty solenoid like. The positive side gets full voltage (with my buzz box hooked to the battery
it was showing 14 volts). When the ignition is turned it sends between 6 and 9 volts to the starter. Thats checking with my multimeter positive lead on the bare wire running from the 'solenoid' to the starter and my negative lead on the block itself, no way I'm snaking both my hands around the belt to test both leads at the same time while on my tip toes leaning over the engine out through the companion way while turning the key with my teeth. That said, I was able to do most of that AND take pictures!
No worries, its a long story but reading it isn't nearly as painful as living it. Despite everything attempted, playing with what I guess I will now call the stop lever, glowing the plugs, covering the air intake, WD40 down the intake, blowing its hair with a hair drier, etc. etc. etc, it still seems to turn slowly, and the lights are still dimming even when I'm hooked up directly to a running car with a 90 amp alternator
, two size 25 deep cycle 120 amp hour batteries, plus a starting battery
with a cold crank rating of around 800 (not crawling back there again to check the number, but thereabouts). Finally my multimeter is reading next to no voltage drop or resistance at any cable along the whole electrical
WHEW!!!!!! Now I'll post some pictures. the 14 volt reading is the solenoid, the 8 volt is the starter which was actually fluctuating from 6 to 9 (I'm somewhat hoping that'll be the key to all this) got a geyser shot of the bleeder valve as well as the injector lines and finally a picture of my weird shifter line holder thats secretly a stop shifter....
Any ideas left?