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Old 30-04-2016, 10:09   #31
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Location: Fort Lauderdale Florida
Boat: Northstar 1500, 35'
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Re: Mercury 2.2 trolling motor problems

I may have missed it in reading the fuel bowl full when you take it apart? Maybe leave bowl off, fuel connected, work test...dunno, get the personal challenge part though!

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Old 30-04-2016, 13:53   #32
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Re: Mercury 2.2 trolling motor problems

Just soaking will not clean the jets, needs to be taken apart and actually cleaned out.
We are talking some very tiny passages, doesn't take much varnish to completely block a jet, just wiggling the float won't clean the main jet.
Newer "synthetic" oils are far better than the old mineral 2 stroke oils, that stuff sets up just like varnish you would paint with. Same oxidization process.

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Old 30-04-2016, 14:58   #33
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Re: Mercury 2.2 trolling motor problems

Fault diagnosis depends on removal of ALL doubt as to whether individual components of a system are functioning correctly or not.
I don't think you've yet proved that any part of your motor is definitely working or definitely not working.

Carb/fuel and plug are far and away the two most likely causes of small two-strokes not starting. Ignition - points, coil etc. - third but some way behind.
Luckily carb and plug are easiest to check.
Replace plug/s, remove carb/s and spray 2T fuel into inlet port diagnoses maybe 90% of non-running two-strokes.
Surprised you haven't done that.

Think you're going to have to strip the top end of the carb, not just the float chamber... sorry if I've misunderstood but from your posts it seems maybe you doubt your ability and so are hoping to get away with just soaking it instead.

Print the exploded drawing from the manual, take pictures on your phone to remind yourself how things fit together. All the brownish/yellowish "varnish" from the 2T oil needs to be physically removed, especially from the jets.
All needs to be bright and shiny.
Remember the cut-short paintbrush? Use it with a stippling/stabbing motion.

I'm convinced absolutely anybody can rebuild a simple carb

Float chamber needle valve and its seat are best polished with fine abrasive on a q-tip or similar to make sure the valve won't stick. Toothpaste is abrasive enough - remove all traces afterwards.

Can't find the post now but think you said your HT lead may be suspect?
Trick is to pull the cord in complete darkness. Then you can easily see if there's tracking anywhere. With the plug installed and the HT lead snapped on you should see no spark. If the spark's tracking along the outside surface of the lead then clean or replace the lead. No tracking allowed.

With the spark plug pressed against and touching the engine the spark should only be visible between the plug's electrodes, not between the plug body & the engine. If not, buy that new plug.

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