I've seen many supposed 'miracle' products over the years. I worked on many motorsport and oil research
and development programs since the 80s. Without exception they are bs.
There are some friction reducing products that have benefits in very high performance applications but are not measurable in normal use. Particularly with a low revving marine diesel
. Some major truck fleets run robust test programs which are of interest.
You have two options in choice of engine oils. Synthetics and non synthetics.
For older engines avoid synthetics. They were developed to meet emissions regulations
and suit newer engines which have been designed to work well with them. They are not performance products they are emission reducing products which are incompatible with some older seals
and piston ring / bore crosshatch patterns. Although they are often marketed with performance benefits.
What do I use in my 34 year old Perkins
4-236? Non synthetic multigrade oil. I change oil and filters regularly. Typically between 50 and 100 hours of engine running time. We also run a preoiler for a minute before starting. This builds oil pressure before starting.
The oil is clean and slowly becomes darker over time. Before it's black change it. The oil captures carbon particles which are responsible for wear. If the oil is black immediately after an oil change
then keep changing it until its clear.
The way you clean sludge from an engine is twofold. Firstly never let it get to that condition through frequent oil changes. Secondly only use normal multigrade non synthetic and change it frequently to clean the engine. Don't use flushing
oils or 'magic' oils. You don't want to dislodge too much crud too quickly. It will just block oil galleries and increase wear.
The same principles apply to hydraulic steering
, rams and transmissions. There is no combustion so the interval between oil changes is extended.
So avoid the snake oil recommendations. They never come with any scientifically robust validation. Change regularly and run a preoiler.
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