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Old 05-09-2016, 17:04   #1
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M 25 dying when warm

Hello, so I just finished a major refit of my e-35-2 and was hoping the engine would be good to go beyond installing as the previous owner who I know had done a top to bottom rebuild on it the season before and had changed all pistons, sleeves, rods etc and an overall inspection of the engine.

now starting out after I got the engine in the boat there was a small oil leak from the rear back right (flywheel side) that no amount of re tightening head bolts would fix as they were kind of loose from me storing her outside I believe, so I knew I would have to swap the head gasket and ordered one. Then after a full day of motoring I topped up the oil to compensate for the leak (which ended up not being very much) and accidentally overfilled by at least a quart and all of this blew out the breather.

then I was seeing the low oil pressure light which ended up being a stuck relief valve, and she would start up, run great till she got warm, then stumble and die, if I kept her at high Rpms she would last longer than low, also subsequent starts after that (if I could get her going after letting her cool for awhile) would produce a lot of white smoke.

so over the weekend I tore the head off put a new gasket on being careful to put everything back together very cleanly and tightening all bolts to spec. Cleaned both manifolds and air cleaner, and started her up, after several attempts she fired up and ran great for about 20 minutes till she got warm again and then died and is very hard to restart, she will crank and crank and doesn't want to start, but if I wait an hour and hit it with some starter fluid it will start back up, with a lot of white smoke.

any help would be greatly appreciated as I am stuck in Elizabeth city and would very much like to leave, so oil leak and loss of pressure are fixed but now loss of power when warm.

fuel lift pump is facet and I have plenty of fuel flow at bleed screw have also cracked injectors and have fuel there
Brand new racor filter downstream of lift pump
brand new 15 gallon diesel tank

thanks!
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Old 05-09-2016, 17:49   #2
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

Well, you can start with the white "smoke." That's completely unburned fuel. Partially burned is black. So, fuel is going into your cylinders and not burning. Most obvious cause would be compression too low to ignite the spray. So, start by pulling injectors and checking compression. Then there seems to be a difference between cold and warmed up. Loosing compression when warm? I know M-25s pretty well, but someone else needs to step in on that part of the problem.
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Old 05-09-2016, 19:19   #3
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

Thanks for the response, possibly injector o rings?
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Old 05-09-2016, 19:39   #4
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

Check the valve clearances.

Bleed up to each injector.

Rebuild means different things to different people. Are you positive that all the work stated was actually done?
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Old 05-09-2016, 20:03   #5
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

Could vAlve clearance cause it to die out once it gets warm?

And yes I believe him and don't think that it necessarily matters whether no rings and pistons for this problem, at least hope not

Just pulled the injectors out to replace the copper I rings as some came with the gasket set and the cylinders all seemed to have a bit of fuel in them as I guess would make since and cylinder one injector seemed a bit oily

Thanks
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Old 05-09-2016, 20:18   #6
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

The valve clearance idea is worth a check. In don't think you mentioned if the head was rebuilt as well. But on a freshly redone valve seating there will be some break-in change in the clearance. From the the valve bedding itself into the seat a bit more.

Does this engine run a tight tolerance here? Mine is .008 inch.

On an engine with .002 and .003 that I built, after just a short time the clearance went to zero, and when the engine warmed up the idle went way down. Didn't die since it was spark engine and could still ignite the weakly compressed mix. And hard to start until cooled.

If it's the case, effectively the valves aren't closing completely, which could account for the symptoms observed.
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Old 05-09-2016, 20:31   #7
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

Oh interesting, and no I just had the head gasket swapped
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Old 05-09-2016, 20:32   #8
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

Or swapped it myself, I assumed the head was fine since po rebuilt it last year
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Old 05-09-2016, 20:41   #9
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

Actually changing the gasket changes valve clearance, too.

Remember the pushrods touch the block below and the head above. So gasket thickness counts.

I've seen people pull the entire rocker shaft assembly and not touch the rockers thinking to save time, but not a good idea.

Anyway, pulling the cover and roll it over for one cylinder and quick hand wiggling might be worth the effort.
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Old 05-09-2016, 20:44   #10
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

Yea that's what I did, just took the whole rocker assembly off, and yes that makes sense, I'll research the process and give it a shot in the morning, thanks man
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Old 05-09-2016, 20:48   #11
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

Then I think you're on to something.

Thanks to DeepFrz though for the memory jog.
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Old 05-09-2016, 20:53   #12
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

Good luck. Let us know how it works out.
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Old 05-09-2016, 20:59   #13
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

Awesome will let you guys know in the morning how it turns out, any tips or tricks for valve adjustment?

Im sure there's a lot already online I'm about to dive into

Thanks! I hope this helps but also wouldn't explain why it was doing the same sort of thing before the gasket swap

But always best to eliminate one thing at a time and keep moving forward
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Old 05-09-2016, 21:04   #14
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

The service manual will have specific instructions on the process for your engine. Lining up marks and what not. Got one?

If all one knows is the clearance value there is a method that works for any engine to determine position for adjustment of each cylinder independently.
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Old 05-09-2016, 21:10   #15
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Re: M 25 dying when warm

Well good point about "before the swap".

But still needs adjusting because of the new gasket, so not wasted effort. Plus you'll learn this task for next time.
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