Lucas CAV injection pump parts

[sv.antea]

I am resealing a Perkins 4-108 and besides the oil from all the usual suspects, there is much fuel leaking everywhere from the injection pump (Lucas/CAV DPA model 3247F190 that's the common one with the little semaphore turret on top, not the oblong box). So I ordered a seal kit. But now I found the fitting on top of the pump near the mounting flange, a compression rubber ferule joint between the body and the pipe (called "back leak connection" in a cutaway view I found on the internet) is cracked.
Does anyone there have the part and can part with it or could anyone suggest a fuel injection service business that may be willing to look through their used parts collection and sell me the little fitting? Thanks, Stan

[troppo1]

I just bought a whole kit, just to get the Orings for the throttle shaft, I didnt even relalize that there were rubber Olives/bits in all the fuel lines.
maybe this link wil help, sorry it's in england.

Perkins 4108 gasket & seals kit for hydraulically governed pump - £19.80 : Parts4Engines: Perkins Diesel Engine Overhaul Kits and Spares

[sv.antea]

Tropp1, there are only two joints with the rubber ferulles, one on the fuel in line and one on the fuel return. Both vertical joints on top. There are more of them on all the low pressure fuel lines around the engine thought.
New question: my injection pump has two washers between the body and the banjo fittings (and one between the bolt and the banjo). One aluminum, one steel. Two of the connections leak. I wonder if the steel washer doesn't belong there, it seems to defeat the purpose of the soft aluminum washer.

[sv.antea]

Correction. The gasket set comes with 12 steel washers, there are 4 banjo connections. So it may be that the aluminum washers don't belong there? Still a question remains: one washer or two?

[troppo1]

Tomorrow I will be going back to the boat and will have a look for you. My motor is a 36 year old 4108 Lowline and with only 1100 hrs on it, it is quite original. So I will check to see if there are 1 or 2..

Originally Posted by sv.antea

Correction. The gasket set comes with 12 steel washers, there are 4 banjo connections. So it may be that the aluminum washers don't belong there? Still a question remains: one washer or two?

[sww914]

S&W Diesels in Wilmington, Ca has an injection shop attached to them. They'll have what you need. Armando to the rescue!

[sv.antea]

Thank you Steve, and thank you troppo1. Troppo1, don't go to any trouble contorting in the engine space. Further investigation revealed only the two outboard (and accessible) banjo connections had the additional aluminum washers. (Someone with my qualifications had been there before me.) The other two, apparently long undisturbed, had only one steel washer each side of the banjo.
Years ago I completely dissembled, freed frozen parts, reassembled and made work one of these pumps that was left out in the elements somewhere in a Caribbean boat yard. It worked afterwards. Sheer luck, I guess.
Anyway, if anybody wonders, it turns out it is not difficult, at least with the pump on the bench, to replace the O-rings that seal the two control lever shafts. Mine were shrunk and fossilized. The fuel shut off shaft has one small O-ring, the governor lever two, slightly larger ones. The shafts are held captive in their bores by the long mounting bolts w/ 8mm heads. In my case, the gasket of the little tower was left undisturbed.
The O-rings are in the sealing kit, but it's likely they are standard size and can be purchased for pennies rather than the $40 for the kit.
Stan

[troppo1]

No worries, I could have bought the 2 Orings locally for 40cents but as the shipping cost 30euro's I went the whole hog and bought most of the gaskets and kits to keep as spares for when the 1st rebuild is due. Many years from now I hope.

[oldcal46skipper]

We just had a FI pump from a Perkins 4.107 repaired by Atmore Fuel Injection in Atmore, Alabama. Good service, fast turn around and a fair price. We rebuild 4.108 engines, but send our pumps out for service.

[Stormshag]

Hi Stan,

Just reading your post and thread as I'm looking at a similar fix. I just have a leak on the throttle shaft. I'm wondering if it's possible to do the repair without removing the pump from the engine. I'd like to avoid having to reset the timing if possible. Also do you have the shop manual by any chance?

Originally Posted by sv.antea

Thank you Steve, and thank you troppo1. Troppo1, don't go to any trouble contorting in the engine space. Further investigation revealed only the two outboard (and accessible) banjo connections had the additional aluminum washers. (Someone with my qualifications had been there before me.) The other two, apparently long undisturbed, had only one steel washer each side of the banjo.
Years ago I completely dissembled, freed frozen parts, reassembled and made work one of these pumps that was left out in the elements somewhere in a Caribbean boat yard. It worked afterwards. Sheer luck, I guess.
Anyway, if anybody wonders, it turns out it is not difficult, at least with the pump on the bench, to replace the O-rings that seal the two control lever shafts. Mine were shrunk and fossilized. The fuel shut off shaft has one small O-ring, the governor lever two, slightly larger ones. The shafts are held captive in their bores by the long mounting bolts w/ 8mm heads. In my case, the gasket of the little tower was left undisturbed.
The O-rings are in the sealing kit, but it's likely they are standard size and can be purchased for pennies rather than the $40 for the kit.
Stan

[marcjsmith]

@stormshag being the thread is 8 years old, you may not get a response.


on my 4108 the injection pump shaft is indexed. IE it cannot go in the wrong way. common practice is to scribe a mark on the flange of the of pump and a corresponding mark on the engine. so you can get them lined back up and maintain the timing. I rebuilt my FI pump last year.


I would not want to try to do the work while it on the engine. I guess if you have the access you could..


the last pic is look down on the FI pump after the EX manifold/heat Exch is off. still alot of stuff going on in that area...



buy seal kit, take the pump off and add new seals..

[Stormshag]

Thanks for the reply! I'm a little uneasy working on it because I don't have any manual or diagrams. From your experience, is it possible to replace the o-rings on the throttle shaft just pulling it from the front or does the top bit have to come off? I have easy access to the throttle bit. I may have to remove the exhaust manifold if I have to take the top off. Any advice is super appreciated. I'm assuming if I pull the pump that it would be super important to NOT turn that indexed drive shaft?

Originally Posted by marcjsmith

@stormshag being the thread is 8 years old, you may not get a response.


on my 4108 the injection pump shaft is indexed. IE it cannot go in the wrong way. common practice is to scribe a mark on the flange of the of pump and a corresponding mark on the engine. so you can get them lined back up and maintain the timing. I rebuilt my FI pump last year.


I would not want to try to do the work while it on the engine. I guess if you have the access you could..


the last pic is look down on the FI pump after the EX manifold/heat Exch is off. still alot of stuff going on in that area...



buy seal kit, take the pump off and add new seals..

[marcjsmith]

You can spin the motor and you can spin the shaft in the pump until the tide change. It can onlly go back on the motor one way. But you need to have an index mark on the pump and engine to get your timing back to wher it was.

https://injectionpumps.co.uk/interac...ts-diagram.htm

I took everything apart on a bench. I had a shaft leaking as well I could not narrow down which one. So I just did all new seals...

FWIW. This guy on sailing anticipation rebuilt his pump and I figured if he could do it on a boat, I could do it in my shop. At 11:50 he starts taking the pump apart

When I get back to work. I’ll check my files for some more diagrams and info for ya
https://youtu.be/tyMsX8McAm8

[marcjsmith]

I thought I had more notes and diagrams at work. i was mistaken. sorry.


I was very apprehensive to do the job, but I'm a bit mechanically inclined so I dove in. no matter how bad i screwed it up, worst case is i was going to be out $$$ for a pump.


all that being said I had a bugger of time getting the motor to fire back up. even though I had returned the idle and throttle set screws back to their original location. I was woefully out of adjustment and had to go full throttle just to get 1000 rpm.


once I tweeked the throttle stops and adjustment screws I was fine. fired right up. after bleeding of course

[Stormshag]

Hey Marc, thanks so much for the advice. Got the pump off now. It had timing marks so hopefully if I'm.super careful it will all go back good. Looking at the seals in my kit....lots of hardware! Wow. Will measure and photo everything coming apart. Well here goes!