Lifting Engine off mounts for Service

[Mikelikethewind]

This Universal M25 is buried in a mess of worn out everything. Considering I have a lift that will work to raise the engine off its mounts a couple feet, what problems will I have with the transmission/prop shaft linkage. I can manage the wiring and plumbing being moved ( I am replacing all that anyway ) I just don't want to get into unforseen trouble with the prop or tranny, either when separating them or putting them back together.

This is just a thought at this point, but if its as easy as it looks....

[UNCIVILIZED]

Have you done a search under, say, Engine Alignment? That, & it never hurts to put feelers out, via word of mouth, to see who in your sailing community has done this kind of thing before.

BTW, why do you have to lift it up for a servicing?

[roverhi]

Undo the shaft coupling from the transmission. Be careful not to change the position of the nuts under the engine mount brackets. Might even want to stick some tape over the nuts after the engine is out to be sure they stay in position. Undo anything else that will be pulled on or ripped out as you raise the engine and all should be well. The engine should drop back in position when done and still be in alignment though would advise checking it to be sure. With a straight overhead shot for a 'come along', pulling the engine is easy. Most engines are buried under the cockpit or galley counters and require ingenuity and muscle to get them out.

[Cruisingscotts]

Pull the whole thing out and off the boat if you can vibration mounts included. Unbolt it at the shaft coupling, just figure out what you need for blocking or even better hit up a dist for a old engine pallet. clean it paint it work on it. And have all the room you need to clean, paint and work in the space below.

Most mount holes are ovaled to allow for alignment. It's 99.9999999% you will have to align it when putting it back in. Not to mention the existing alingment might not be perfect. Hire someone to re-align and learn how in the process.

[Stu Jackson]

Diesel Engine - c34.org

[donradcliffe]

Don't forget to loosen the clamp on one end of the exhaust hose as well. You may be able to get away without disconnecting the wiring or water hoses.

[Minggat]

I put a deck fitting in the sole of my cockpit for lifting the back of the engine, after so many battles where I needed to raise it. Of course the water heater that had lived there for years was long gone by then. Can't imagine a water heater in my life. Nothing back would get the attention it needs.

[Xthewater]

I agree with roverhi. Looks like pretty easy access and good opportunity to do a proper job re wiring, hoses and paint engine compartment.
You will need to do engine realignment with props haft which is no big deal and able to check engine mounts and replace if necessary.
One thing I noticed was the fuel separator/filter by the engine. Should be in a separate area from engine compartment or metal bowl shield according to ABYC.
While its out (if you do this) suggest you also remove the transmission and check the damper plate looks like a clutch disk without the friction material and bolted to the flywheel. Often fails and a source of problems. Very easy to check and replace if needed.
I recently completely overhauled my M25 rewired etc. so speaking from experience.
I'm a bit envious you've such open access, mine was a BEAR! and done solo.

[boeing1]

this would be a good time to inspect the engine mounts for condition and replace as needed. I also put a hose clamp on the drive shaft for safety. just incase

[Mithril Bham]

Dealing with shaft alignment now. Will try to do it myself. Good UTube demonstrations using gauge. Suggestion of hiring a professional is probably a better idea. It will take me 10 times the time and effort to do it myself but I'm a slow learner. Yes, remove engine entirely to do it right.

[exMaggieDrum]

I was fortunate I had access to a hydraulic scissor jack set from a boat yard. They use them to move engines for replacing motor mounts and aligning engines. You can place the jacks under a sturdy, structural part of the engine and with a few strokes of the hand hydraulic cylinder lift it up one corner at a time. You have to remove the prop shaft bolts as noted above. And you have to loosen the other motor mounts enough so they don't "fight" the movement at the one. You may be able to rent a set somewhere.

Sometimes you can use a hydraulic bottle jack or other kind of jack too. You just want to make sure it lifts straight up and won't slip or compress anything you don't want to damage. Since many bilges under engines are not flat you may want to put blocks or boards to provide a flat, secure bottom point for the jack, or to spread the load across the hull (or whatever).

One thing you do not want to do is to lift up or block it up by the oil pan. It will crush it. And you want to block the motor securely if there is any chance that your hand could get caught if the engine slipped and came down (like you would working under a car) with a jack. You don't want to lift it up by the pulleys on the motor either, or the starter, etc. You'll have to decide for yourself what would work or not.

You also don't want the motor to slip to the side or fall over. Slow and steady is the ticket.

[Sailorbob8599]

I know the two coupling halves should be identical, but I have always marked the edges with a 'chisel cut' mark to be certain they go back together in the same way as they came apart.

[Crew of Turning]

If you have 2 lifting eyes on the engine it will be an easier task. When you disconnect components document and tag each item. If you lift vertically there should be no issues created regarding alignment back onto your engine mounts. When we pulled the engine and gearbox (yanmar2qm20) to overhaul the gearbox heres what we basically did. We cloned the engine bed in wood on the galley floor. Disconnected all shifting connections, shaft coupling, fuel & water lines, regulator wiring to alternator and the yanmar wiring harness. We then broke the bell housing off the back end as gearbox was locked in from the inside! The bottom line is it took 6 man hours to remove and the same to restore the repaired gearbox and with everything written up it was a easier task to complete.

[topmast]

The propshaftflanges have an aligning ridge. work the coupling open a bit with a screw driver, don't just pull the engine straight up. usually use a chain strap. can put bolts thru to keep comalong from sliding