Letting Oil Drain Out for a week

[GrowleyMonster]

That's what I do, change oil twice, a few hours apart, but being a compulsive filter changer, I do change the filter along with the barely used oil. You don't really need to do this but how much does the filter cost? Not so much.


Often you can get the sump drier with a hand pump and clear plastic hose, than by using the drain plug, due to inclination and location of the drain. As a plus, you don't even need to remove the plug or dribble oil possibly into your bilge. Pumping the oil out is a much cleaner, neater method, that works well on most small diesels.

[Allied39]

Ok, I gave my opinion early on, but gave the short version.
Since the thread is still going I will toss in another angle.

I have a 50 horse Lehman. Peugot block. I love my engine very much, I keep her clean, oil change every 50 hrs, warm up gentle (which is another topic in itself) , Idle down before shutdown.....I could go on.

All the above because new engines are expensive. I am a former service provider and have not yet seen another work to my standards, so if I did need to change my engine, I would be doing it, so I don't even consider the labour costs. To replace a 50hp has to be 10g plus, just for the motor. If you are unlucky enough to have to pay to have it done, another 10g is likely.

Leaves the grand sum of 20 to 25G! I love my engine very much.....which brings me to my point.

Years back when I was a service provider I purchased a Pre Oiler for my engine.....cause I love her and do not want her to die.

My pre oiler runs my engine up to 40 psi (if I remember right ) before I crank her over. Most folks agree ( sure there's them that don't) that most engine wear in high compression motors occurs in the time between starting and full oil pressure throughout the motor but primarily in the lower end bearings.

It runs for three minutes after shutdown to flush the system AND.....YES THERES MORE!!!! ( sorry, infomercial flashback) it has a quick disconnect that allows me to fire up the pump and empty the sump, easy. Nice and easy. Clean, nice and easy.

Yup, so thats what I did. Couple of hundred bucks.....but pennies considering the costs of replacing my nice, loving, happy, well behaved little red engine.

PS. I sent out this info in my newsletter ( my sexatary / wifey threw it together on a quarterly basis) to all my clients. Got a lot of inquiries, however the big issue was a lot of engine manufacturers do not believe in sump plugs.

So, ya gotta have one to go down that road.
Or install one, hmmm.

[Maka]

Alied39

Never heard of a pre oiler before. Im intrigued. Makes so much sense.
Where do I get one? Any sense of cost? Installation easy?

[Allied39]

I will check out the manufacturer of mine in the next day or so.
Installation was easy, but have to have an oil drain in your sump. Picks up oil from your sump and then pressurized your oil system.
So the pickup is at the sump and the pressure side hooks up anywhere in your oil system, at the oil pressure sender unit works fine, just install a tee.
!2 fused power and a power from your ignition switch. None of it hard.
Try googling it for a start.
My disconnect is between the pump and the motor, so it sucks it from the pump into a container. reconnect the disconnect fitting, toss the oil into your engine and ya'll done.

[Midnight Son]

Maka
Pre-oilers are used in large diesel engine installations. Heavy equipment, in my experience, most likely in large marine diesels, as well.

[GrowleyMonster]

Originally Posted by Allied39

I will check out the manufacturer of mine in the next day or so.
Installation was easy, but have to have an oil drain in your sump. Picks up oil from your sump and then pressurized your oil system.
So the pickup is at the sump and the pressure side hooks up anywhere in your oil system, at the oil pressure sender unit works fine, just install a tee.
!2 fused power and a power from your ignition switch. None of it hard.
Try googling it for a start.
My disconnect is between the pump and the motor, so it sucks it from the pump into a container. reconnect the disconnect fitting, toss the oil into your engine and ya'll done.

I like that. I think I will look into installing one on the Westerbeast.

[Midnight Son]

Growley
Do not forget the check valve in the feed line to the oil gallery you are plumbed into.

[Allied39]

I will get a couple of pics as well......and work out how to stick em on here.
Came as a whole unit, instructions wiring etc.
Will have more info likely tomorrow.

[Wotname]

For the OP.
FWIW, you have a poor man's pre-oiler already with your 3QM30 engine. If you wish to take the trouble, you can operate the decompression levers before starting. Let it spin over decompressed for say 5 secs. Then start by dropping the decompression levers. This get oil pressure up and oil circulating without any significant load on the bearings before starting. It also decreases the electrical load on the starter motor.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Allied39

I will check out the manufacturer of mine in the next day or so.
Installation was easy, but have to have an oil drain in your sump. Picks up oil from your sump and then pressurized your oil system.
So the pickup is at the sump and the pressure side hooks up anywhere in your oil system, at the oil pressure sender unit works fine, just install a tee.
!2 fused power and a power from your ignition switch. None of it hard.
Try googling it for a start.
My disconnect is between the pump and the motor, so it sucks it from the pump into a container. reconnect the disconnect fitting, toss the oil into your engine and ya'll done.

I would be a little wary of picking up oil from the lowest part of the sump then pumping it into the galleries, primarily because any crap in the oil settles to this very point and I am not sure that I want it recirculated into the bearing surfaces. Most engines have a magnetic sump plug to catch and hold any ferrous metal particles.

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

I would be a little wary of picking up oil from the lowest part of the sump then pumping it into the galleries, primarily because any crap in the oil settles to this very point and I am not sure that I want it recirculated into the bearing surfaces. Most engines have a magnetic sump plug to catch and hold any ferrous metal particles.

Thats easy to solve as you just prime/pre-lube the system before oil filter. At least that seemed logical to me when installing an oil system primer. But good point about the warning.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Compass790

Thats easy to solve as you just prime/pre-lube the system before oil filter. At least that seemed logical to me when installing an oil system primer. But good point about the warning.

I don't know just where one can plumb into the system between oil pump and filter, any suggestions? For an engine that may go extended periods between run times I think it may well be a very good addition.

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

I don't know just where one can plumb into the system between oil pump and filter, any suggestions? For an engine that may go extended periods between run times I think it may well be a very good addition.

Well I just plumbed an elbow into the oil pump rotor cover ( discharge side) with a non-rtn v/v . I had to do that as oil pump was having priming problems & it was too pricey for a new case. Easy to do on our Yanmar ysm8 but you'd have to nut it out on yr own engine as I modified our oil filter setup to a remote spin on filter. I wasn't happy with the metal leaf screen original oil filter tho in reality it's probably fine.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

I would be a little wary of picking up oil from the lowest part of the sump then pumping it into the galleries, primarily because any crap in the oil settles to this very point and I am not sure that I want it recirculated into the bearing surfaces. Most engines have a magnetic sump plug to catch and hold any ferrous metal particles.

Really!

Not saying you are wrong, just saying I haven't seen a magnetic sump plugs for ages. Most engines I am familiar with don't have any ferrous parts in them to wear - gearboxes are a different story.

Can you let us know where you have seen them - last one I saw was in a BMC mini?

Once again, for the OP, his QM engine does have a suitable plug for a pre-oiler pick up - an external plug that uses the existing internal pickup as it's source. The pressure side (or return) goes into the oil switch port which IIRC, is just before the filter. It's a win / win!

[Allied39]

OK, my pre oiler is a "ESP products pre luber"

I googled, first thing I found some guy bitching because it's to loud (seriously?)
There were also others saying how much they loved theirs, as I do. There were boaters amongst them, thinks maybe even sailors.

Anyhow it might be they are out of business or changed names.Their phone number is no good.

I have a couple of pics,but have no idea how to get em on here, have to consult with my sexatary. Likely tomorrow. I am starting to sound like a mexican.....manana senior, manana.

Anyhow, yes it has a check valve.
My unit runs the oil back into a fitting under the oil filter, where my oil cooler returns the oil.

The installation manual that came with the unit talks about a "custom filter adapter" a CFA, obviously a fitting that goes between the oil filter and where the oil filter screws onto.

This would obviously run the oil through the filter and belay the worries of some who are concerned about picking silt up off the bottom of their sump.

Mine already had one of these so it was something I did not need.


I know there's some really clued up folks on here, must be , I seem to get talked down to a lot, so perhaps armed with this info they might do better finding these folks or someone similar if they set their minds to it.

Pics likely tomorrow.