Lehr Propane outboard: horizontal tank? liquid propane?

[HopCar]

I've always flushed my small motors by putting them in a garbage can of water. It would be nice if there was a hose attachment. I'll check with Lehr for you.

I shouldn't have mentioned the garbage can. Capt. Bernardo has let it be know he doesn't want his dealers demonstrating the motor in garbage cans!

[tallyhorob]

using the small tank on the 9.9 may freeze the tank. The flow will be too fast and the unit will tank will freeze.

[ngermain]

ha. Yeah, I guess the garbage can does't contribute to the most positive image eh?

I don't really get the bucket/garbage can thing.

A) It's a 5hp that ideally stays attached to the sailboat all the time. When the mounting bracket is at it's highest, the prop still isn't clear of the water so it'd be quite difficult to get a bucket under there without salt water in it. (I guess you'd have to put the bucket under, then bail out the salt water then add fresh). The prop only clears the water when the engine is tilted up (which I think is the case on most boats?) but I've read that it's not a good idea to run the engine while tilted up because of risk of getting oil or coolant water into the crank or cylinder. Is that correct? And it's not very stable while tilted up. And it'd be geometrically quite difficult to get a bucket at that angle and still contain water. Damn gravity.

B) That leaves taking the engine off the bracket each time and holding it in a garbage can. Is it easy to start an engine of that weight while holding it? One person hold, the other pulls? My boat is tied to a floating dock. I don't like the idea of routinely taking it off the boat and transferring it to the dock--increases the chances of dropping it in the drink. And if it's not practical to hold the engine in a bucket...do I buy a engine mount/test stand and keep it in my car? Can't leave it on the dock.

Basically...I'm looking for a practical way to flush an engine that's on a boat in the water. People must do this? The manual talks about using a test stand and bucket but unless I'm missing something I can't figure out how that isn't a massive chore for a real boat.

[minaret]

Tilt the motor up, put a bucket of fresh in the salt water, and then tilt the motor down into it.

[ngermain]

I knew there was something simple I was missing! that seems like it would work...I guess your bucket has to be big enough to avoid the prop hitting the walls...and hold the bucket nicely centered. I'll try that next time I go out.

Thanks!

[HopCar]

Ngermain, We need to figure out something better for your situation. My small motors have all been on small boats and were removed after each use. The motors were stored on a stand so the bucket worked well. I understand your problem.

Tallyhorob, you're probably right. You would have to run at reduced throttle if you hook a 1 pound can to the 9.9. It would only power the 9.9 for about 15 minutes at WOT anyway.

Then again, maybe it wouldn't freeze up if you inverted the bottle and fed the engine liquid propane. Very little would need to vaporize in the bottle to maintain pressure.

[HopCar]

Ngermain, here's an idea. Rig a bucket with a rope on each side. Drop the bucket into the salt water and use the ropes to pull it up over the prop and water intake. Now you've got the lower end of your engine sitting in a bucket of salt water. Take your fresh water hose and direct the stream into the bucket. I bet after a few minutes of this the water in the bucket will be fresh enough to flush the engine. You could help the process by pouring some Salt Away into the bucket as the engine runs.

[HopCar]

I see Minaret beat me to it.

[four winds]

Maybe a floating fresh water bucket. A bucket with fenders or a lifering attached?

[ranger58sb]

Doesn't Lehr offer a flushing attachment? Direct hose attachment, way easier than buckets... assuming you don't drop the fitting screw (or the flush attachment) overboard

That question would apply to the whole range, i.e., including the 9.9...

I would envision rmaybe unning the 9.9 on small cylinders for First Mutt-to-shore duty... and WOT wouldn't much enter into that equation. But mostly I'm just thinking of ways to not have to deal with a 20-lb tank.

I've heard of fiberglass propane tanks, even slightly translucent so you can monitor the tank level... but I've never actually seen such a thing. Does anyone have a link that might depict?

-Chris

[cal40john]

Originally Posted by ranger42c

Doesn't Lehr offer a flushing attachment? Direct hose attachment, way easier than buckets... assuming you don't drop the fitting screw (or the flush attachment) overboard

That question would apply to the whole range, i.e., including the 9.9...

I would envision rmaybe unning the 9.9 on small cylinders for First Mutt-to-shore duty... and WOT wouldn't much enter into that equation. But mostly I'm just thinking of ways to not have to deal with a 20-lb tank.

I've heard of fiberglass propane tanks, even slightly translucent so you can monitor the tank level... but I've never actually seen such a thing. Does anyone have a link that might depict?

-Chris

Composite Propane Tanks - Worthington Cylinders | Fisheries Supply

[ngermain]

I was hoping Lehr made an attachment because yes, that would make things much easier but as far as I can tell, they don't. But unless there's a hidden hole or some sorts, I can't figure how any attachment would fit. The intake and ouput holes are in awkward, non-flat areas. It would might have to be some sort of inflating internal seal?

I use a 19lb fiberglass tank and really like it. You can see the level, lighter weight, and it's not nearly as easy to damage my fiberglass hull with it from accidental knocks.

[ranger58sb]

Thanks for the link, cal40john.

ngermain, FWIW, the flush attachment fitting on our current outboard is nowhere near the normal intake and discharge points; it's on the underside of the powerhead. Out with a blocking screw, on with the attachment, attach the hose and turn the water on, e Voila!

Is the Lehr owner's manual silent on the topic?

-Chris

[ngermain]

That's exactly what I was wondering. There is a threaded screw cap thing right beside the oil fill screw (looks identical too it) on the lower foot. But the manual doesn't say anything about that. I even downloaded the PDF and searched for "flush" to make sure I wasn't missing anything when I read it. It almost think that should be the flush for the water but I would assume the manual to mention that. All the manual says is use a test stand and keep the anti-cav plate under water.

And if that is a flush screw block, is that a standard thread/diameter? I'm just a little hesitant to flush water into a hole the manual doesn't mention....

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by ngermain

That's exactly what I was wondering. There is a threaded screw cap thing right beside the oil fill screw (looks identical too it) on the lower foot. But the manual doesn't say anything about that. I even downloaded the PDF and searched for "flush" to make sure I wasn't missing anything when I read it. It almost think that should be the flush for the water but I would assume the manual to mention that. All the manual says is use a test stand and keep the anti-cav plate under water.

And if that is a flush screw block, is that a standard thread/diameter? I'm just a little hesitant to flush water into a hole the manual doesn't mention....

Don't know; certainly wouldn't try anything without guidance from Lehr.

Where did you find a PDF diagram? Do you have a softcopy manual? I've looked at the Lehr site with no luck... and since I'm thinking of buying, I want to read all that stuff first

-Chris