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redsky49 · 20-05-2014, 15:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by hellosailor

Greg, buy a can of PBlaster. Spray the plug. Get lunch. Spray again. Get a drink. Now come back and it should spin right out like virgin metal. The stuff really is that good...., but really, I'd bet even money on the PBlaster.

PB Blaster is good, but Kroil is even better. I have, and use, both and Kroil seems to be the best

Lojanica · 20-05-2014, 16:17

From a diesel service manual regarding screw plug removal:
"
Servicing the “non-serviceable plug”
If the non-serviceable plug is not already loose, heat the end of the plug to 400-500*F.
This will begin to soften the retaining compound so
the plug can be removed without
additional damage

GregSteimel · 21-05-2014, 08:50

Haven't thought of that, but I'm trying to avoid using one of those fittings by using this port for one of the sensors instead. Besides, the T fitting I have puts one of the sensors into a drive belt

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GregSteimel · 21-05-2014, 08:56

I like the idea about the flexible line, but it brings up another issue. Yanmar makes a T which they call a damper. It apparently has a narrow orifice which is designed to even out pressure fluctuations, so that the needle on your gauge doesn't throb with pressure pulses. I suppose the flexible line would serve the same purpose.

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Cheechako · 21-05-2014, 09:20

A trick an old millwright taught me on a severely seized SS assembly was to heat it with a torch just enough to melt wax into the threads. The wax wicks into the threads and once cool he took it apart with his hands. Not sure that works here on rusty stuff...

After all the above advice, cold chisel etc, I hope the end of this story isn't a cracked block so you can have that extra gauge you'll never look at..... :>)
Yes, as mentioned a T works fine.

**a64pilot** · 21-05-2014, 09:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregSteimel

I like the idea about the flexible line, but it brings up another issue. Yanmar makes a T which they call a damper. It apparently has a narrow orifice which is designed to even out pressure fluctuations, so that the needle on your gauge doesn't throb with pressure pulses. I suppose the flexible line would serve the same purpose.

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We do that in aircraft too, but we call it a restricted orifice, purpose is to keep from running the engine out of oil in the event the line breaks. We fill a nipple with silver solder and drill a .020 hole. Makes the oil pressure gauge a little slow in responding until the line becomes filled with oil as air is compressible, oil isn't.

**a64pilot** · 21-05-2014, 09:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregSteimel

Haven't thought of that, but I'm trying to avoid using one of those fittings by using this port for one of the sensors instead. Besides, the T fitting I have puts one of the sensors into a drive belt

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If you can't get the plug out, re[lace the sender with a nipple and remote mount the T where you have room

model 10 · 21-05-2014, 10:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by a64pilot

If you can't get the plug out, re[lace the sender with a nipple and remote mount the T where you have room

If you are going to do that you should put a small orifice in the engine fitting. Having a sender or line failure could be a big deal without one. Another plus for a remote sender is you can keep all that crappy dirty diesel oil from clogging the sender by filling the hose with hyd fluid.

bornyesterday · 21-05-2014, 10:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako

After all the above advice, cold chisel etc, I hope the end of this story isn't a cracked block

I did assume a chisel sized to suit a plug with a 1/8" BSPT thread or its JIS equivalent.
Tapered thread...
A block doesn't crack from a chisel weighing a few ounces.

Lojanica · 21-05-2014, 14:05

Everyone keeps talking about rust and seized fittings. If it's a plug in the block it has hi-temp loctite. This will melt at 450 degrees farenheit and come loose.

Just put a torch to it and I'll bet you a beer it comes out easily. All the penetrating oils will do nothing unless the block is heated first. The danger to this is that you hit a hose or wire and damage something while you are heating the fitting but if you have room it will come loose......

**a64pilot** · 21-05-2014, 15:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Won't hurt a thing but I bet your going to have to use heat to get that plug out and or an impact driver

First response I told him to use heat, as far as hurting anything the heat will coke the oil that is in the galley, that will probably flush out without harm. I would run the engine for just a couple of seconds with the plug out to flush out any sludge or coke that may be there once I got the plug out

hellosailor · 21-05-2014, 17:50

redsky-
Kroil may be better, but unless you want to FedEx it or wait a week or two for delivery...it doesn't exist. PBlaster is sold in many retail locations, and until Kroil figures out how to get me their product, at no shipping charge, in four hours or less? Yeah, well, if it doesn't exist it can't be the better product. I really wish they could wrap their heads around that.

Lojanica-
Here in the US, Loctite was and sometimes still is shunned by the automotive industry, and that includes all the engine makers. Their view was that rust makes a good thread locker and Loctite and Permatex cost money, lots too much money. O wouldn't be on any engine parts being installed with red Loctite unless it was a Japanese engine. They taught the US how well these products work. (And, the only reason they used them was because customers were afraid to buy products with no dealership support, so the Japanese spent money on making the products so reliable they didn't need dealer support.)

Loctite? Don't expect it, unless you know the OP's engine maker actually uses it. A torch will also work on rust, most of the time.(G)