Leak on the injection pump

[reed1v]

Originally Posted by pr2501

I did find in the engine manual note that washers should be from aluminium.
(see attache d picture) I will ask the previous owner if he did also had problems with fuel leaking at the same place?

At least that would be better than steel. However, copper would give you a margin of safety greater than aluminum. Under high heat, copper uniformly deforms. Aluminum can crack. Both way better than the steel idea. The banjo fitting needs something to cushion the torque tightening process. Steel will not do that, the others will.

[pr2501]

On the picture 3 you may see where i have the problem. Picture 1 shoves damage. On picture 2 you may see in what shape are the washers.

On " the diesel fuel leak" picture, arrow shows where i was thinking that i have the leaking at first. But fuel is coming from upper connection "port".
(picture 3) But i will be sure if everything is okay with lover port when i will repair the upper one.

I have to exam if also the pump body is having corrosion damage.
I will do it tomorrow.

[pr2501]

I did attached again the injection pump schematic ilustration.

Can you tel me if is there a gasket in point where i did mark a green line?

Is it that the pump is going split in two parts in that point?

[sartorst]

Some advice when looking for fuel leaks on diesels ! use a piece of paper (brown is preferred)to hold near potential leaks to prevent the possibility of fuel from being injected into your body or you will have more problems !
I had taken a banjo fitting apart several times trying to stop a leak that I was sure was the fitting and when the light was held just right I was able to see a tiny needle spray of fuel coming from another connection onto it , I had my hands near there several time just got lucky !

[tkeithlu]

pr2501, sartorst is making the very important safety point that you are dealing with a leak in the high pressure side of a diesel injector pump - the pump that sprays fuel into the cylinders when they are already at 10 atmospheres or so of internal pressure. You can get seriously hurt there - it's like looking for leaks in a submarine with your hand. Do be careful.

[pr2501]

Eyes are something here what can get irreversible damage.

But i am now at point where i can not get forward alone.

I am thinking to take pump down and bring her to professional.

I will see tomorrow. I can not get right dimension washers here in Guatemala.

I think i will not go for rebuilding. I just want to stop the leak.

Can you give me the link for instruction or maybe the video.

[Capt Gill]

Originally Posted by pr2501

I did attached again the injection pump schematic ilustration.

Can you tel me if is there a gasket in point where i did mark a green line?

Is it that the pump is going split in two parts in that point?

I had a similar leak on my 4-108 and was sniffing in all the same areas as you,turned out to be worn out 'O' rings in the throttle shaft housing which is above the areas you've checked. Put a piece of material under the shaft,on mine ticking the lift pump provided enough pressure. BTW,the leak was v. small,so difficult to locate. This a common source for leaks and there's some excellent info elsewhere in this forum.
Another source:<https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=663421293035&set=gm.943867312396355 &type=3&theater>

[Sanibel Jim]

Ivan,

I am having the same issue with the same pump, looks like your leak may be due to the old washers, but to answer your question about the gasket at the green line on your drawing, there is an o-ring there and I am sure this is where my leak is coming from. Here is a great video of a pump rebuild. The top of ours is different but the pump is basically the same. you will see the o-ring if you Fast Forward to 26:00

https://youtu.be/h26p78YZIr4?list=FL...Pk65O3reV3WByw

Also here is the kit that fits my pump and many of the CAV DPA pumps, it will cost you twice the price for shipping but hey your in the Central American jungle Dude.

7135 110 CAV DPA Injector Pump Repair Kit Fits Ford Massey Ferguson 4000 7600 | eBay

Hope you get her going, I think you will like the Bay Islands.

Jimi

[sartorst]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h26p78YZIr4

see if this will help

[pr2501]

Than you Jim.

I did took a day break. Where can i get instructions about removing the pump?

[pr2501]

I did find an manual here:
Diesel Injection Pump Installation and Removal Instructions for Injection pumps on Cummins, John Deere

It looks so complicated to me. I am looking for a video now.

[pr2501]

I was looking the attached video from the start and i might see about pump removal.
I have hydraulic pump but it does not make the difference for oring at 26:00.

[Sanibel Jim]

I have taken mine off before, not too hard if you have the space. 6 fuel lines and 3 bolts on the flange. The flange mounting bolt between the pump and the engine block can be tricky. Also look close at the edge of the flange on the pump and the engine block for a mark stamped in both peices (see attached photo). This is for the timing and needs to be lined back up when it is put back on. If the mark is not found, make your own so you can get her lined back up.

[dw1979]

pr2501 hope your finding the source of the leak. It was suggested by others that you need to be careful of hi pressure coming from the leak source. True. But you don't have to run the engine to find the leak. Just use the lift pump to provide the pressure. If everything is cleaned up good and you have placed "tell tales: at the appropriate spots, then just pump away and see what gets wet first. You don't want to be taking the pump off until you find the leak.
And you must make a mechanical mark for timing. I used a cold chisel to hammer a line straight across the two mating surfaces. The pump can't go back on but one way to the splined shaft, but the mounting holes are slotted for adjustment and you don't need to reinvent the wheel here if it was running right already.

I have steel washers on mine, and I think that is a good thing. A softer washer can deform when torque is applied to the banjo bolt to tighten up the lines.

Looking at the previous pics of you banjo bolt, you might wand to take some fine grit (1000) and put it on a flat surface. You should be able to sand off the corrosion from the mating surface this way.

I hope you find the exact leak soon as I know this can drive a person nuts. It did me for several days.

[tkeithlu]

Now that is clear advice from someone who knows the specific engine and has experienced the same problem. Bravo!