Leak at the injector line nuts

[Captain jo]

Hi all
Last time i change my fuel filters and had to bleed the fuel lines, I over thighten the nuts at the injectors and number three is now leaking
What are my options knowing i'm on a small island in the bahamas very far from a perkins part supplier...
Thanks

[ur2slo]

Braze it if you can get a set of torch's.

[leftbrainstuff]

Siver solder will require less cleanup. Brazing will work. You'll need to cleanup the seat to the injector and nut seat.

Make sure you clean it thoroughly. If you get the slightest bit of grit or dust in there and your injector is toast.

You only need to nip them up. Try using two fingers on the wrench if you dont have the feel for it.

[Captain jo]

Ok thanks
So braizing seems the way to go.
So I assum the idea is to ad some material and shape it back to shape it was before it was compress.

Could you please be more specific since i never did something like that...

Thanks in advance

Captain Jo

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Jo.

[ur2slo]

Originally Posted by Captain jo

Ok thanks
So braizing seems the way to go.
So I assum the idea is to ad some material and shape it back to shape it was before it was compress.

Could you please be more specific since i never did something like that...

Thanks in advance

Captain Jo

Captn,

This isn't the best place to attempt to understand metal flow, but I know from many years of doing it, that you can control the temp enough to allow just the filler rod to flow without the base metal being too compromised

You need to be aware that the threads on the nut are critical and being the high point of the pitch of the thread is going to get hottest first. so be careful.


Its only a temp REPAIR, although most good temp repairs become permanent in my exp.

Also, low temp silver solder is good also.

In an emergency, pull the line, cap the injector pump outlet and run on one less cylinder........

Its sailing 101, gotta think outside the box.

Thee are many others that can add input & advice , BUT buyer beware......it's free




also, maybe some local yokel that knows how to braze might work better than looking at a melted lump of what used to be your ferrule nut.

[motion30]

In my opinion if you are not very experienced and you put a torch on those lightweight fittings and tubing you will ruin it

[01kiwijohn]

You might first want to check and make sure the threads are not stripped. If they are, you'll never get it tight again.
If they're ok, you might want to see if you can find a radiator repair shop, plumber, electronics repair or other type of repair shop that has experience with soldering/ brazing work. Once that's done, you just have to work on it and make it seal. (I know, sounds easy. Be patient)

[boatbod]

Proper solution is to replace the line.

Half-baked emergency solutions depend on what's causing the leak. If there is no crack, then simply annealing the flare end may be sufficient to get it to seal. If there is a crack (probable) then you either attempt to braze it (difficult) or maybe you can wrap enough oil absorbers around that you continue on somewhere to make a proper repair knowing that it's going to leak a bit along the way.

[sailon46]

In the bind you are the only thing you can do is take the nut back out and then get if you have it JB weld clean the nut in side and dry so no diesel left on it also the injector thread wipe it with paper towels if you have them out there till you get no residue on the paper then apply a thin coat of the JB weld, its two parts so you mix it and work fast, in the inside of the nut careful not to have too much or you will toast your injector. Finger tighten it and tighten gently not to mess it up again and let it cure more than 24 hours. Start the diesel and keep your fingers crossed, it should work. This has worked for me in the middle of the Pacific . Good luck
Ernie on the Mary Jane

[Steven UK]

Ok if it is leaking where the flare or flange fits on to the injector you could try anealing it, it will likely be steel or brass so just use a propane torch and it will get cherry red real quick. Don't quench it just let it air dry of better yet put it I into dry sand. The fitting will now be much softer (like when it was new) and will probably seal. This process also works well for the small copper washers you find on the injection pump and injector leak off lines.

On some of the latest T4f common rail engines the manufacturer (who I work for) recommend replacing the high pressure fuel tubes every time they are removed. I don't always do it.

If the tube has been bent and split I sometimes brase them but never the sealing surface, that's not going to work.

If you post a photo it will be much clearer, from the posts above it sounds like several of us are interpreting your problem differently.

Good luck...

[Cheechako]

For an "in the field" repair to get by, You might be able to flow some solder on it with a propane torch and solder. The solder being fairly soft may seat itself when installed. Assuming you haven't stripped the threads. Not sure what else may work... carefully placed tin foil? Not sure what your injector and tube look like...

[seabreez]

Originally Posted by Captain jo

Hi all
Last time i change my fuel filters and had to bleed the fuel lines, I over thighten the nuts at the injectors and number three is now leaking
What are my options knowing i'm on a small island in the bahamas very far from a perkins part supplier...
Thanks

Need more information here... how do you know you over tighthen the nut? Did it crack? Did the line break? Is there a crack on the flared end of the tubing?

[boatpoker]

Most likely the soft copper washer. They should be replaced every time you touch them.
If you've cracked something thats a different story.

[Wulf]

Originally Posted by ur2slo

In an emergency, pull the line, cap the injector pump outlet and run on one less cylinder........

No no no no. Do not cap the injector pump outlet....doing so will result in hydraulic lock and severe damage to the high pressure injection pump! Instead of capping the outlet reattach the high pressure line in such a way that fuel from it can be redirected back to the tank via hose. Flow will be small and, of course, no pressure if the tank end is not obstructed.