Originally Posted by Alan Wheeler
Del, unless you are in extreme cold where the cooling could still freeze, you are better leaving that antifreeze
mix in the engine. If it is a good anti-freeze as in, it has a good anti-corrosion inhibitor, it will do more good in than out. The moisture that is left inside will corrode far easier because it has plenty of air in there as well. Plus the circulation pump seals
dry and the bearing can dry and corrode.
Yeah! You are probably right with the exception of MY motor
, A VW convert. It has a lot of aluminum parts
. You mix that with an iron block, you get galvonic reaction. I use the recommened antifreeze by the VW dealers but when it sits so long it still works on the aluminum
I've done it this way for the pass couple years due to what I found during a spring start up.
I started up the motor
after 7 months of sitting (with the coolant
still in it) and it kicked right off after two revs :kissy: But during the warm up the fresh water pump started to leak. So I shut it down and proceeded to locate a new pump. That was a PITA trying to get the exact one. They look the same but they are not, by minor details.
So, I drained the coolant
into clear plastic jugs and started the tear down. I discovered while pulling the hoses off that the ends of the hose flanges were eaten partly away and the inside of the pump wasn't looking too good either. And I'm saying to myself "What an idot" I bought this boat and didn't bother doing any liquid changes. The SOB, so called mechanic
, that had installed a rebuilt head
(that it didn't need) just before I bought it, had put regular dime store antifreeze in a VW motor.
A week later the plastic jugs that I had the coolant in, have a gray level at the bottom. I siphoned off the top all the antifreeze and what I found was liquid aluminum. All winter long that stuff had been eating away at the pump and the surrounding castings. I had to replace another casting up under the fuel pump
Now, I buy the best antifreeze I can get right from the VW dealers And drain the stuff for the winterization lay up. And I keep a heat lamp in the motor compartment all during the cold season. So it never really gets below 60║ F and there is no moisture build up.
There are 3 different types of antifreeze for different types of motors! The phosphate-free antifreeze is what should have been in there!
Description: The most common formulation of antifreeze is green in color and uses ethylene glycol as a base with anti-corrosion additives mixed in. The ethylene glycol part of the formula provides crucial anti-freezing characteristics and the additives deliver the anti-rust and anti-corrosion capabilities. Beginning with 1995 models, most GM vehicles started coming from the factory filled with an extended-life antifreeze, trademarked as DEX-COOL«. Distinctively different in appearance, DEX-COOL«, and its aftermarket equivalents, is an orange/amber color. It still uses ethylene glycol as a base, but contains a different additive package than standard green-colored antifreeze. This coolant is designed to protect cooling systems for up to 150,000 miles or five years. Other antifreeze formulations include silicate-free for Japanese cars and phosphate-free for European cars.
As for corrosion
and the seals? I haven't had any problem for the past two years. The residue from the dried out antifreeze should be taking care of the internal parts