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Old 10-10-2010, 03:54   #1
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Injector Nozzle Stuck Inside Head

There should be heaps of info on this subject but I must be choosing the wrong search words.
I have a Yanmar single cylinder and need to get the injector nozzle removed from the head. It isn't rusted, at least not visibly but the damn thing won't budge.
I have read on other forums that some make their own puller and some have advised the use of engines compression which I have tried with no luck.

Thanks
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Old 10-10-2010, 05:00   #2
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the complete injector is stuck? or just parts of the injector?
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Old 10-10-2010, 06:48   #3
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Using the engine's compression It like a sparkplug, no? Righty tighty. Lefty loosey. Use a proper socket and a breaker bar. They're strong.
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Old 10-10-2010, 07:02   #4
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Using the engine's compression It like a sparkplug, no? Righty tighty. Lefty loosey. Use a proper socket and a breaker bar. They're strong.
100% incorrect.
Yanmar uses clamp in injectors
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Old 10-10-2010, 07:26   #5
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Ugh! I've wrestled with those on injector pumps. Seemed like a goofy way to build something.
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Old 10-10-2010, 08:46   #6
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PB Blaster and time...........getting a wrench on the top and trying to work it in both directions....you may have to take the studs out to allow movement.......slight tapping on the wrench....in both directions......

They can be a bear......just don't get frustrated....take your time
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Old 11-10-2010, 14:30   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chief Engineer View Post
PB Blaster and time...........getting a wrench on the top and trying to work it in both directions....you may have to take the studs out to allow movement.......slight tapping on the wrench....in both directions......

They can be a bear......just don't get frustrated....take your time
Thank you,
It s one of those things I guess.
I have tapped, pb blastered, but your stud removal suggestion may soon take place.
It looks so clean where it meets the head (no visible rust).

Your advice conforts me regarding patience for removal.
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Old 11-10-2010, 16:15   #8
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It desn't take much rust to seize things up.
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Old 11-10-2010, 16:24   #9
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Keep tapping in all directions + keep adding the PB Blaster. Try heating the Head around the injector with a torch...not too hot; then apply more Blaster and keep tapping.
A
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Old 15-10-2010, 08:04   #10
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Keep tapping in all directions + keep adding the PB Blaster. Try heating the Head around the injector with a torch...not too hot; then apply more Blaster and keep tapping.
A
Is there any threat of heating up the diesel fuel enough to ignite?
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Old 15-10-2010, 09:44   #11
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If you can remove the studs from the injector hold down you will get more movement when tapping on the injector. Try to double nut the stud and turn the bottom nut to remove it. If its stuck don't force it or you will have a broken stud to remove as well. It is not only the rust you are dealing with but possibly a build up of carbon on the injector tip. Keep lubeing, tapping and some heat. The best tool that I have used is a heel bar and the hit the bar to shock load the injector loose. (don’t forget to wear safety glasses). If you get the studs out don’t turn the injector to far anticlockwise or you could leave the lower part of the injector (nozzle and cap) in the hole. Usually with an injector stuck as tight as yours spinning the engine wont help. Use caution using your torch and having a fire extinguisher close by is a good idea. Diesel won't ignite like gasoline/petrol. Diesel needs to be atomized (sprayed) to ignite. You may get a small flame from the injector line. It is flammable, using a torch you will have small flames and smoke. The lube you are soaking the injector with is more flammable than diesel. If this doesn't work find a fuel injection repair shop in your area and ask their advise.

Good luck, Ozzie.

Originally Posted by Dynamo1181
Keep tapping in all directions + keep adding the PB Blaster. Try heating the Head around the injector with a torch...not too hot; then apply more Blaster and keep tapping.
A
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Old 15-10-2010, 09:52   #12
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Loosen the nuts holding down the injector a little and start the engine very briefly (this will push the injector with 60 bars and give some nice blows at the same time). If you are lucky it will come loose. Don't remove the nuts or loosen the nuts too much or you may see the whole thing flying through the air.
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Old 15-10-2010, 10:36   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzie View Post
If you can remove the studs from the injector hold down you will get more movement when tapping on the injector. Try to double nut the stud and turn the bottom nut to remove it. If its stuck don't force it or you will have a broken stud to remove as well. It is not only the rust you are dealing with but possibly a build up of carbon on the injector tip. Keep lubeing, tapping and some heat. The best tool that I have used is a heel bar and the hit the bar to shock load the injector loose. (don’t forget to wear safety glasses). If you get the studs out don’t turn the injector to far anticlockwise or you could leave the lower part of the injector (nozzle and cap) in the hole. Usually with an injector stuck as tight as yours spinning the engine wont help. Use caution using your torch and having a fire extinguisher close by is a good idea. Diesel won't ignite like gasoline/petrol. Diesel needs to be atomized (sprayed) to ignite. You may get a small flame from the injector line. It is flammable, using a torch you will have small flames and smoke. The lube you are soaking the injector with is more flammable than diesel. If this doesn't work find a fuel injection repair shop in your area and ask their advise.

Good luck, Ozzie.

Originally Posted by Dynamo1181
Keep tapping in all directions + keep adding the PB Blaster. Try heating the Head around the injector with a torch...not too hot; then apply more Blaster and keep tapping.
A
thanks,
the studs came out fine.
and the anti-clockwise was some appreciated advice.

the injector has never been out since new in 1978.
the motor is in really great shape and virtually rust free.

Would it help soaking with some sort of "carbon breakdown" product?
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Old 15-10-2010, 10:58   #14
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I haven't used any cardon breakdown product, so I don't know. It wouldn't hurt anything. The heel bar works 99% of the time. If you can get the injector to move back and forth by tapping it or turning it with a wrench the rust and carbon should break free. Then you should be able to pry it out. There may be a copper washer at the botom of the injector that should be replaced as well. You will have to check in the parts manual. Also on installing the new injector, smear some grease around it and you won't have a problem removing it in the future.

Ozzie
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Old 15-10-2010, 11:18   #15
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Diesel fuel will ignite readily, and burn freely, if heated beyond 150* F.
Don't confuse this with spontaneous (compression) ignition when pressurized to 15 to 22 atmospheres in a cylinder.
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