Injection Pump Leak

[SS Little-Devil]

I have a westerbeke W30 and there is a diesel leak from the injection pump. It started out as 1 drip per second, but now that my mechanic tried to tighten everything well, it's started to pour out about that.

I have called around and searched and searched and cannot find a search for crush washers, which is what my mech told me to get. The washers that were on the banjo bolts looked like aluminum, and he said I should have copper crush washers for them. There may also be a leak from the gasket for the bleed screw plate.

Does anyone know where I can find crush washers that fit or have any advice for this? I was given a number for someone who might be able to rebuild it, but I would have to remove the pump, and I'm told this is a very tricky thing because of timing issues and such associated with it. Anyone have any tips here?

[Tar34]

Give these guys a call...They can help

Carp Coastal Marine Supply - Westerbeke Parts -

[delmarrey]

Most marine suppliers that sell motors/parts have the copper washers. They come in sizes so take your old one with.

Or you can buy a whole kit and be the popular kid on the block. >>> 290 Piece Metric Copper Washer Kit M3 M12 | eBay

[SS Little-Devil]

Sweet. Thanks guys.

[SS Little-Devil]

Westerbeke called and gave the number of Dumas Diesel. They quoted me $450 to rebuild the pump. I'm seriously considering it. My mechanic suggested the leak was coming from the banjo bolts, and thought that replacing the washers would be fine. The washers are aluminum and he thinks they are the wrong washers, and that someone replaced them before with the wrong ones. There has been a bit of a leak since I bought the boat.

Obviously that would be a cheaper fix, but if we put it back together, and it still leaks, I have to pay to repeat the whole job. He's already started to remove the injector lines to get access, so there are more washers to replace and completely removing all of that, plus a battery, disconnecting the throttle bracket, etc. is time consuming to do over again if the washers don't work.

My concern is, that I have read a lot about people having problems indexing the pump afterwards, and that the timing or firing order can be a real PITA if the fuel pump shaft is turned during rebuild. OTOH, the shop told me that there is only one way the pump can fit to reinstall. They say that it's only if you take the engine apart that there is a timing issue to worry about. That seems to contradict what I've read. Before I decide to remove the pump and pay the dough to rebuild, can anyone verify that the shop is correct? I really don't want to open a can of worms by removing the pump unless the shop is right. If it's a simple reinstall, then I think it's worth it.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by SS Little-Devil

Westerbeke called and gave the number of Dumas Diesel. They quoted me $450 to rebuild the pump. I'm seriously considering it. My mechanic suggested the leak was coming from the banjo bolts, and thought that replacing the washers would be fine. The washers are aluminum and he thinks they are the wrong washers, and that someone replaced them before with the wrong ones. There has been a bit of a leak since I bought the boat.

Obviously that would be a cheaper fix, but if we put it back together, and it still leaks, I have to pay to repeat the whole job. He's already started to remove the injector lines to get access, so there are more washers to replace and completely removing all of that, plus a battery, disconnecting the throttle bracket, etc. is time consuming to do over again if the washers don't work.

My concern is, that I have read a lot about people having problems indexing the pump afterwards, and that the timing or firing order can be a real PITA if the fuel pump shaft is turned during rebuild. OTOH, the shop told me that there is only one way the pump can fit to reinstall. They say that it's only if you take the engine apart that there is a timing issue to worry about. That seems to contradict what I've read. Before I decide to remove the pump and pay the dough to rebuild, can anyone verify that the shop is correct? I really don't want to open a can of worms by removing the pump unless the shop is right. If it's a simple reinstall, then I think it's worth it.

Don't know about Westerbekes but I know it's Yanmars that have a timing issue.

[Charlie]

I recently removed the injection pump from my Yanmar. I was really worried about it. I am a shade tree mechanic. The key is to get make permanent marks on the injection pump and the block. Use a punch in case they strip the paint when they rebuild the IP. find TDC on the compression stroke of the first cylinder. Remove the pump. When they rebuild it they will time it to that point. As long as you don't move the engine the IP should be okay to drop back in. Here is a link to a thread I made on my experience http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ump-91210.html

[shakey doug]

G'day,
The shop is correct the pump is Master splined.
If the unit performs well why not just renew the offending parts its not brain surgery, a couple of copper washers $20 worth.Seems you may have read to much that is not specific to you engine.

Good Luck.

[River Cruiser]

I replaced some washers on the injector plumbing on my Westerbeke 8BTD gen last year & the factory parts were aluminum. They are a 1 use part like most gaskets & re-using or tightening to stop a leak is not a good fix. Good luck

[SS Little-Devil]

I just posted another thread about the results of my mechanic trying to fix my pump, but I should have just replied here. He overtightened everything, stripped the threads out of the pump body and ruined one of the fittings by using vice grips to remove it and crushing the threads on the male end that the fuel line cap screws onto.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by SS Little-Devil

I just posted another thread about the results of my mechanic trying to fix my pump, but I should have just replied here. He overtightened everything, stripped the threads out of the pump body and ruined one of the fittings by using vice grips to remove it and crushing the threads on the male end that the fuel line cap screws onto.

Take it off and refurb it.

Dave

[SS Little-Devil]

How hard is it to take this pump off myself? I'm thinking I will try to do it myself and then bring it in to the diesel shop to rebuild it. Is this a bad idea? My mechanical knowledge is limited, but I did do some work on my own cars and such. I can't see it being too crazy to remove and replace the part.