Injection pump issues again

[Capt Gill]

Personally I'd be not so easy on the repair shop,esp after the response they shoveled to you,I bet they were holding their breath while telling that yarn to see if you'd buy it,also spending $800 should get you a top notch rebuild.
Rust,you didn't say if the springs were rusty the times you looked at them,hard to believe they rusted that quick. You have a right to have them fix it properly as it was either not done right or there's an issue with that run of pumps,in any case a professional shop that wishes to be know as professional will slouth out the problem, it's called diagnoses, if they cannot do that kindly ask them to return your money so you can take the pump to a shop that is qualified to do so. You can keep on replacing parts,but until the CAUSE of the failure is known it's likely to recur. Best of luck !

[jimbunyard]

Are the springs that are breaking the ones that hold the cam followers in the pump against the cam? If so, this does not sound right, they are fairly heavy and should not be rusting and/or breaking from sitting up for 6 months. I would try and make sure the shop is using the correct springs.

If you're talking about the fuel delivery valve springs in the top of the pump, then yes these could be rusting from water in the fuel. Clean water-free fuel is essential, especially if you're leaving it in the engine for months at a time. The fuel stabilizer mentioned above is a good idea, as is having the engine running well when you leave it for the season...

The sticking rack is common on these style pumps, but may also indicate that you still haven't gotten all the water or salt contamination out of the engine. You may need to use some type of engine flush in conjunction with several oil changes to see a real improvement. If, when you had the raw water pump problem a lot of saltwater got inside the engine, it is possible that after any residual water that you didn't get out evaporated, it left salt inside the crankcase and as the temperature changes, it is pulling more condensation out of the air than is normal.

[DeepFrz]

If there is any water in your fuel then you need to polish the fuel. Manually cleaning the tank is also a recommended maintenance procedure.

[Sailmonkey]

If you're getting water in your injector pump you need a better fuel filter. And probably new injectors as well. Solid water injected into a Diesel engine will flash to steam and damage the injectors as well as the precombustion chamber.

[dnimigon]

Kind of shot in the foot for me. What the hell am i supposed to do. Still no response from Westerbeke. Not sure if someone there monitors these sites. If its a bad spring issue then resolve it. If it's a pump issue then replace them. Make people happy. Not ticked off. Can't go nowhere with this boat now for fear of pump cratering somewhere out from shore and hopefully not close to any rocks or shallow areas. Sorry for rambling off here but I'm really ticked.

[dnimigon]

Jim, yes it is the bottom springs as you said, not the top. Top are fine as they were fine before when this happened. When the pump was rebuilt they replaced them all top, bottom plus all seals etc. The original ones that broke didn't really show rust signs and all 3 bottom springs were in pieces. Just were in many pieces at that time. Like 1 little spring being in about 4 pieces. Haven't completely taken these out yet this time but the piece i did take out looked new, no rust. Thinking bad line of springs or wrong spring initially from Nexel . Thinking possible wrong spring was spec'd from designer. If so must be thousands of these breaking. So why does Nexel blame engine.
For you others the fuel is fine, no issues on that end of pump.
Have changed oil when having these problems many times to flush system. I'm familiar with the do's and don't here on a clean system. Just trying to resolve this breaking spring issue.

[jimbunyard]

Did a quick search on a pump for a D950, the Zexel number for the pump I came up with is 104293-3011. I'm not sure if that's your pump, but I did a quick search on parts for that pump and the compression spring is p/n 104215-1900. The interesting thing is that for that particular series pump there are three part numbers, the one given and two more ending in -1200 and -0100. They look identical in the drawings (though they may not be in real life) but it's certainly worth a look to see if the springs got mixed up somewhere down the line.

This web site might help a little:


104293-3011 ZEXEL FUEL-INJECTION PUMP |

[dnimigon]

Did a Nexel search. Found my pump 104206-3001
Kubota 160 3051012
Nexel spring 140215-2000

[Hyrdflyr]

It was probably due to the oil contamination. I learned the hard way, ($1600) that many Bosch-type inline injector pumps have separate crankcases for their bottom end. Some also have a separate dipstick or sight gauge. Some of those have common venting with the engine but have to be drained and refilled separately when the oil needs changing. My experience was that when I got water in the oil, due to a partial swamping, some of it ended up in my injector pump crankcase. I flushed and changed the oil in the main several times but didn't realize that the injector pump had its own separate crankcase and was also contaminated. The upshot was lots of rust throughout the pump necessitating a complete pump rebuild and lots of new parts.$$$

Get the parts from the tractor dealer and a copy of the shop manual. Do it yourself.

Good luck,

[DumnMad]

Originally Posted by Hyrdflyr

It was probably due to the oil contamination. I learned the hard way, ($1600) that many Bosch-type inline injector pumps have separate crankcases for their bottom end. Some also have a separate dipstick or sight gauge. Some of those have common venting with the engine but have to be drained and refilled separately when the oil needs changing. My experience was that when I got water in the oil, due to a partial swamping, some of it ended up in my injector pump crankcase. I flushed and changed the oil in the main several times but didn't realize that the injector pump had its own separate crankcase and was also contaminated. The upshot was lots of rust throughout the pump necessitating a complete pump rebuild and lots of new parts.$$$

Get the parts from the tractor dealer and a copy of the shop manual. Do it yourself.

Good luck,

Good info Hyrdflyr.
I concede re fuel contamination - given the OP's comments.

[thruska]

Originally Posted by Hyrdflyr

It was probably due to the oil contamination. I learned the hard way, ($1600) that many Bosch-type inline injector pumps have separate crankcases for their bottom end. Some also have a separate dipstick or sight gauge. Some of those have common venting with the engine but have to be drained and refilled separately when the oil needs changing. My experience was that when I got water in the oil, due to a partial swamping, some of it ended up in my injector pump crankcase. I flushed and changed the oil in the main several times but didn't realize that the injector pump had its own separate crankcase and was also contaminated. The upshot was lots of rust throughout the pump necessitating a complete pump rebuild and lots of new parts.$$$

Get the parts from the tractor dealer and a copy of the shop manual. Do it yourself.

Good luck,

Im curious, separate crankcase ,dipstick,.... does it not have a separate pan or drain ?
Something doesn't add up...

[Capt Gill]

"Im curious, separate crankcase ,dipstick,.... does it not have a separate pan or drain ?
Something doesn't add up..."

Ditto, don't know of any diesel F.I. pump that fits that criteria, someone please enlighten me.

[capt jgw]

The one on my old Albin AD2 was like that. Had its own oil supply and had to be changed separately