Well, to replace a head gasket basically you need to unbolt a batch of parts
. I don't know that engine
but here's what is typically involved:
You will need to remove the intake and exhaust
manifolds, taking care not to shear the old stuck bolts on the exhaust
manifold. And disconnect everything that is attached to the head, so it comes free cleanly.
Then you clean both surfaces with a gasket scraper, taking care not to scratch them, and check them for warping with a straight-edge. If the head has warped, it needs to go out to a machine shop for resurfacing. If the block has warped (possible but way less probable) that's a bigger job.
Installing the new head gasket is mainly a matter of following the instructions (sealant or not, and proper side up, and any trimming it may require) and then bolting the head back onto the engine
. You MUST USE A TORQUE WRENCH for this, and torque the bolts down in the proper sequence. Usually you have to use new bolts for this--the instructions vary by manufacturer, old bolts are now "pre-stretched" so they are not the same as new, even if they are still 'good'. After the bolts are torqued down in sequence, you need to reconnect all the stuff you took off (and of course that will include the fuel
lines & the need to bleed the fuel
system again, so this is the right time to send the injectors out for a rebuild
and do anything else on the fuel system) and then in theory it fires right up.
You'll also need to retorque the head bolts (again, in sequence) after a certain number of hours of operation, varying by the vendor.
Special tools needed? Just the manual and a torque wrench, which is a useful tool. Bought mine for a head gasket job and never regretted owning it, rather than renting
or borrowing one.
Special skills? None really. Just some patience and care.
? Head gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, miscellaneous fuel system crush washers,thermostat gasket, whatever else gets in the way.
And a can of PBlaster will help with those exhaust manifold bolts. If one of them snaps, that's a possible extra bit of work to r&r it.
Before you pull the head--or after it is off--you might also want to do a leakdown test on the cylinders, to make sure you don't need new rings or cylinder work. When the head is off, you'd want to check them over carefully while you've got good access. And similarly, check the head, the valves, see if you want anything else done while it is off. Could also be the right time to replace your exhaust mixing elbow
, if that's due.