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Cheechako · 06-08-2013, 09:17

A little bit of a side trip.... but... if you install an electric pump, do you install it in a side bypass with two 3 way valves or can the engine pump draw though it when it's off?

**sailorchic34** · 06-08-2013, 12:29

Me I would install the electric pump inline as the extra valves and such give more potential leak points. i would get one that allows draw through. So easy that way..

Well the engine is back together. Just need to install the alternator which will go on tomorrow.

Only blonde thing I did was install the engine mounting brackets upside down. But THAT'S fixed.

I also changed out the prop packing gland. It did not really need to be changed but access was really easy without the v-drive in the way. That was easy too. Only a small stream of water came in and the bilge pump did not even come on. I ran it on manual to get the water out of the bilge afterwards.

Just need to remove the old exhaust hose. New hose should be in later this week.

So the great blonde diesel engine rebuild is just about over. So Thursday morning the engine get's reinstalled. Though it will be another day or two before the engine is ready to start. It will have taken about a month from start to end to get all the work done.

The engine tear down was really messy. The installation was not bad at all. I still can't believe I did it all. I did have some help on the disassembly. But I did the engine build all by myself. Pretty neat.

Wrong · 06-08-2013, 12:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

I also changed out the prop packing gland. It did not really need to be changed but access was really easy without the v-drive in the way. That was easy too. Only a small stream of water came in and the bilge pump did not even come on. I ran it on manual to get the water out of the bilge afterwards.

Would you mind telling how you used the bicycle tube to accomplish replacing the packing?

Thanks.

**sailorchic34** · 06-08-2013, 15:54

Oh the bike inner tube was only if you had a large inflow of water when the packing nut was removed. Mine was just a trickle so I did not need it. Had it been a larger flow rate, I would have wrapped the inner tube around the stern tube / prop shaft to slow to flow down. I have the packing gland type, where the packing is inside the nut.

Some packing glands have the packing around the stern tube and a two nut packing gland that compresses the packing inside the stern tube. For that type, you just move fast.

But in the 5 minutes it took me to remove the old packing and install the new packing and reinstall the packing gland nut I only had a few gallons of sea water drip into the bilge. The water did not even get to the float switch

Wrong · 06-08-2013, 16:05

Thanks! I have the type with the packing inside around the tube. Don't know that I'll ever try replacing it while in the water. Anyone who've successfully replaced packing inside the tube while boats in the water?

**Boracay** · 06-08-2013, 16:44

My first electric fuel pump died after a few minutes, the second met it's fate after causing obscure faults for a few months and being caught leaking diesel into the bilge.

I put in a Walbro FR 22 last year. Still ticking strongly. Worth the few dollars extra.

Sailmonkey · 06-08-2013, 17:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wrong

Thanks! I have the type with the packing inside around the tube. Don't know that I'll ever try replacing it while in the water. Anyone who've successfully replaced packing inside the tube while boats in the water?

Sure, there's just not that much water that comes in.....cut your flax ahead of time and you only have a trickle of water for the short time that all of the packing is out.

**sailorchic34** · 06-08-2013, 17:28

OK I need confirmation from someone who has a 3gm30 engine. There are two types of banjo bolts on the engine. Small orifice and large orifice. The large orifice are marked with a 7 on the bolt head The service manual does not mention the size / orifice difference. I'm thinking that the oil banjo bolts are the small ones and fuel are the large ones.

So I need someone to look at the banjo bolt on the oil connection to the head and see if it has a 7 embossed on the nut face or if its unmarked. My guess is the big orifice banjo bolts with "7" marked on the head is for the fuel. I'm 70% sure that is the case. Just need someone with a 3gm to confirm that for me...

dandrews · 06-08-2013, 17:46

SC... Just took a look at my 3GM sitting in the garage ready to be re-installed, and the bolt with a 7 on it is connected directly to the fuel pump. Other bolts in the fuel lines have M's on them. All the oil lines bolts have no markings. Hope this helps.

Don

foggysail · 06-08-2013, 17:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

The engine tear down was really messy. The installation was not bad at all. I still can't believe I did it all. I did have some help on the disassembly. But I did the engine build all by myself. Pretty neat.

Proud of you Chic!!!

**sailorchic34** · 06-08-2013, 18:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by dandrews

SC... Just took a look at my 3GM sitting in the garage ready to be re-installed, and the bolt with a 7 on it is connected directly to the fuel pump. Other bolts in the fuel lines have M's on them. All the oil lines bolts have no markings. Hope this helps.

Don

Thank You Don!. I thought it was that way. I had just took them all off and put them in the same baggy. DOH!. Feeling good that I'll not be starving the rockers...