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Old 10-03-2007, 11:21   #1
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I Want a New Engine . . . Advice Welcomed

I have a Volvo MD3B..raw water called.."I 'm sick and tired and not going to take any more"

I have first no idea how old engine either 1975 original or 1991..saw some warantee paper to that effect..

I solved the over heating problem a year and a half ago..with muriatic acid in transmission to unclog water flow...that of course after lengthy Boat US tow

The only instrumentation that works is temp guage...

I had the head rebuilt plus head gaskets..etc..ran pretty well...Replaced Racor and all the hoses in fuel system..just this week..Now I got oil leakage...probably oil pan rusted out...which Ifear will require engne to be pulled..AND WHAT NEXT>>>Some minor smoke but no blow by...

I'm contemplating a circumnavigation end of April...I'm afraid that I've lost confidence in the
engines ability to cut it....Rust factor...leaky seal potential...Even starter and generator problems..No telling how much time left on those components..Just the fear factor alone in Panama canal transit....keeps me awake at night

That's The situation..Like to hear any good buys out there on New engine packages..from those out there who are looking... or recently repowered..The current engine is 36 hp...pushing 23,000#...."fine I guess when wind and current minimal..."When they said Aux power 30 years ago they meant it...

So I guess it would advantage me to move up in HP...but then I guess size of engine..fitting into compartment is a major consideration...Engine..transmission and instrumentation required

and then how do I dispose of old engine..."I think it probably has life in her if it went to the shop..in the hands of pros.."I just don't want Engine problems in the middle of the Pacific ocean...

I wanted to talk to you goys first before approaching the diesel shop here in the marina..as a starting point..

I don't want to break the bank on this as well

Your wisdom and experience welcomed..'

Thanks

TJC
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Old 10-03-2007, 12:03   #2
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What length of boat do you have??

The easiest is to have the original totaly rebuilt. The oil leak may be simple, like a seal. But yes, you need reliability for the trip you are undertaking. Especially the cannal. You will need to push the engine very hard through there to make the time limit and minimum speed, that nobody can do anyway.

The best IMO is to replace the engine. You couild either go for another Volvo, but late model, or you could go for a Yanmar or some other recognised reliable brand. My choice would be Yanmar.
You should find the latest model engines are all close in size as the original with perhaps a little more Hp. BUT, do realise that a new engine will mean new gearbox and possibly new exhaust and the list goes on and on. It can be expensive to repower. Still, I would rather have a fresh water cooled engine and heater exchanger than salt water cooled.
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Old 10-03-2007, 12:05   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom967

I don't want to break the bank on this as well

Your wisdom and experience welcomed..'

Thanks

TJC
**Disclaimer:
I own a small marine diesel shop, I have biased oppinions. I don't charge for them. I'll answer questions here with everything I know. If you choose to buy something from me, cool. If not, I won't stop helping where I can.**

You chouldn't have to break the bank. It will cost some serious boat dollars. Get ready for quotes around 10K+ for a hands off turn key repower. If your willing to get dirty the cost will drop considerably.
At 23K and 40ft I'd look at no less than 35hp. 50hp would be my target. Your engine made about 77 lb/ft of torque at 2400RPM.
In the current generations of engines your going to be runing higher RPM, accept it.
Now, some alternatives.
Yanmar 3JH4
77lb/ft @2400
Yanmar 4JH4
105lb/ft@2400
Univeral M50
84lb/ft@2400
Westerbeke
44B
80lb/ft@2400
55C
105lb/ft@2400
There are others, but these are my favorites.

With your plans taking you to the Pacific, I'd be biased to Yanmar. Their support network is larger over that way. Many will try to sell you an engine "because it's built on Kubota tractor engines"
This is partialy valid. The fault is, the Kubota parts don't break. It's the Marine specific parts that break. You know the ones exposed to corrosive salt water.
Any engine you choose in this size range will be closed cooled.

Fell free to pm, email, post up or just call me.
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Old 10-03-2007, 12:37   #4
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I forgot the Volvo. I just got that line last week

The D2-40 makes 92lb/ft @2400 RPM
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Old 10-03-2007, 12:52   #5
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My two cents would lead me to sugest you look at the 4JH4 if you can afford it. It's a very smooth running engine.
I can't comment on the volvo, I have not seen or heard one run yet, but can't imagine why it would not also be smooth.
Apart from that, Pat will help you far more than I can, as he has far more hands on experiance.
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Old 10-03-2007, 13:09   #6
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Hi TJC,

I see you have a Creekmore 40. And you have a lot of hours on that motor. Personally, I'd bite the bullet and UPGRADE to a modern piece of equipment.

You will have an heart warming relief even though your wallet maybe empty, but you'll get were your going. Instead paying vessel assist it'll be invested in the boat.

Which stress would you rather have, the one of little money or the one being of stuck somewhere and having to pay someone else to get you where you want to be. Might as well take a taxi.

I'd go with 50 hp too. That's what I have in my 40 and it's just right. Not too much weight but plenty of power for manuvering. It'll keep me at hull speed without maxing the motor. And it's a 4000 rpm motor. You just have to select a gearbox that keeps your prop at the same rpm, plus maybe a little more????? depends on your set up.

You'll have a new starter, new alternator, new heat exchanger, new exhaust, new waterpumpS, new belts, new hoses, new injectors and a tight little spit shine motor that may possibly last the life of the boat.

But it's up to you!!! "Your system is designed to give you what you are getting".

.................................................. ...................._/)
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Old 10-03-2007, 13:16   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by never monday
I forgot the Volvo. I just got that line last week

The D2-40 makes 92lb/ft @2400 RPM

Thank you Pat...You saved me considerable research...and I figured around..10K...your specific information invaluable..

The Diesel shop at the marina I'm at....Oceanside at Key West...Sells Volvo and Yanmar..."Found that out 20 minutes ago" Volvos are probably more expensive than Yanmars...but maybe with the Volvo coming out which can be rebuilt at his shop for resale......I might be able to get a good deal on it...In comparrison, quick observation, ..pretty powerful engine for it's size..

The Boat US fellow, also at the marina..just re- powered with a Kabota..They seem to be popular..and fairly light. I know there is a guy in town who handles them.."Key West a bit off the beaten track"

Another consideration my existing engine bed and exhaust consideration..

I'd like to power up as much as I can...I might need it around some of those Pacific Islands.with adverse wind and current..

All the comments have been extremely helpful pointing me in the right direction..appreciate it.

TJC
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Old 10-03-2007, 14:54   #8
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Aloha Tom,
Before you make your decision call and ask how much a new injector is for a Volvo, then Yanmar. Ask for a head gasket set price for both engines. Make your decision on part replacement costs, i. e. injectors, filters, etc. and availability. Here in Hawaii parts for a Volvo are rare and expensive. Yanmar parts are easier to find.
Kind Regards,
JohnL
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Old 10-03-2007, 16:28   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiprJohn
Aloha Tom,
Before you make your decision call and ask how much a new injector is for a Volvo, then Yanmar. Ask for a head gasket set price for both engines. Make your decision on part replacement costs, i. e. injectors, filters, etc. and availability. Here in Hawaii parts for a Volvo are rare and expensive. Yanmar parts are easier to find.
Kind Regards,
JohnL
You are Right on John...Bought Volvo parts before..believe most made in Germany..very expensive...but at least I could still get them for the older engine...gaskets etc..

I like Alan's suggestion maybe go with the Yanmar 4jh4E..50 HP continuous..just checked the spec sheet out..The shop at my marina sell Both Yanmar and Volvo.. will talk to them Monday..

Ran as 3rd mate on a few runs for Matson..on the Hawaii to Seattle to San Francisco run..."wouldn't want to do it on a Sailboat..If I could help it.."Lot of fun in Hono..I called it the good eating run..great restaurants in those ports.
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Old 10-03-2007, 19:09   #10
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Volvo or Perkins. Parts available anywhere in the world, strong,simple & reliable. Many US brands of engine are far from common outside the States.
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Old 10-03-2007, 22:53   #11
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Just bought some volvo anodes from the Volvo shop in Auckland. They had a pirate volvo saildrive anode for sale at Mt Smart marine (a nearby chandlery shop). The genuine part from the volvo dealer was $10 cheaper. What a laugh! Sometimes maybe their spares are not so dear after all!!
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Old 11-03-2007, 05:53   #12
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I recently purchased a Westerbeke 64, it has a max rpm of 2600 but will push my 27000 lb Mariner to 6.5-7 knots at 1800 RPM while only burning about a 1 GPH. I turn a 19x15 prop. The Westerbeke has performed exactly has advertised, the people at Westerbeke seem to be easy people to deal with. I am very happy with the engine.
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Old 11-03-2007, 14:48   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Island Mike
I recently purchased a Westerbeke 64, it has a max rpm of 2600 but will push my 27000 lb Mariner to 6.5-7 knots at 1800 RPM while only burning about a 1 GPH. I turn a 19x15 prop. The Westerbeke has performed exactly has advertised, the people at Westerbeke seem to be easy people to deal with. I am very happy with the engine.
Thanks for the heads up on the Westerbeke...The Diesel shop at the marina are dealers for Volvo...Yanmar and Westerbeake..

"I got a pretty good slant on this issue now..At this point I'll just see what they can offer me.".Next step the dealer tomorrow morning..Thanks..
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Old 11-03-2007, 14:55   #14
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Two more considerations...

The Yanmar 4JH4E can be reliably started with a 42 lb Optima battery. Those Yanmars have geared starter motors that are much more efficient at starting than the motors used to be years ago, therefore, the battery can be less weight making the whole installation relatively light for the horsepower.

Get the optional 80A alternator and, if you can, get the optional additional 80A alternator and bracket. Yanmar advertises that option yet I haven't actually seen it here. Modified to be driven with an external 3-step regulator those 80A Hitachi's will actually put out over 90A. With two of them you could be in fat city.
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Old 12-03-2007, 13:27   #15
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Talked to my mechanic today..at the Marina ...As I suspected the Yanmar 4JH3E made a lot of sense..Engine..wire harness freight etc..about $11.3 with freight and make sense few options.. etc...

Drive line $250 ...prop $300.."extra expense

I'll have to do some engine bed modification...but a real ball breaker is...new exhaust system...probably run $1000.00...Mine is 2.5 "..on the volvo...The Yanmar requires 3" system..."Not a difficult job..I can do that myself..within a few hours...

So i"ts not going to be cheap...lot of the dirty work done by me...but once you make up your mind...no point in nickle and diming...The old engine esentially worth zip..."It is what it is"

Mark is a good guy has a great reputation here at the Marina..and on the Island...

After old engine out...clean and paint bilge area below the engine...Modify the strainer position and Racor as required..

"Ought to be fun,,did everything else on boat myself.."An engine worthy of my twin 4D... AGM Concord Heartline batteries...

Like to get Opinions..The acceptance rate of charge on AGM's is 4 times faster than wet cells...twice Gel batteries.."One of the real benefits of AGM's...as I understand it...So rather than spend an additional $185.00 for the 80 amp alternator...staying with the standard 60..plus I have a rather efficient wind generator.."So I figured just peeing money away?

Although I do not have hot water heater..ordered the hot water kit with valve..Anyone have any feedback on that ..and how it interfaces with additional required equipment..would appreciate feedback on that issue too.?

I didn't order any added pulleys..have external gas generator..and external air conditioning..The compressor to run refrigeration was shot..

but can do that off 3KW invertor or my generator..."only a half hr on the cold plates...required..every other day

Thoughts welcomed
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