Ed, you're obviously doing the decks properly. I've just removed my pulpit for modification. It was a single
handed job. I use vice grips clamped on nuts inside and they stop against the cabin
side or something while I tighten or loosen from above. Sometimes I use Allen headed bolts or screws from above. I put the short end of the Allen key in the bolt head
where it stays and the long end of the key stops against something while I put the nut on and tighten from below. You can use vice grips on the Allen key if you want. If I have lots of bolts I use as many vice grips as I can find. I've never found a job I can't do on my own apart from climbing the mast
. I pulled my 2GM20
out by myself on the marina.
The crank handle hole is on the exposed end of the camshaft in the front of the motor
looking at it normally from the cabin
. It has a small housing around it secured by 2 set screws.
The crankshaft end is different and has the alternator
drive pulley and smaller concentric water pump on it. That is not a likely source of a leak.
The crank handle hole (camshaft end) is approx North East of the water pump and North West of the crankshaft pulleys.
You can see the end of the camshaft turning when the motor
is running. It has a rod or pin through the end to engage in the circular toothed crank handle if you want to turn the engine by hand for example to adjust the valve clearance. Think a very old car hand crank to start. But a Yanmar
is very hard to hand start. Your crank handle is likely in the bottom of a locker and is black painted steel
looking like an ugly winch
To change the seal, first remove the 2 set screws and then the housing. You will see the presumably leaking seal in behind where the housing was. You can easily slide it off the end of the camshaft. But first you need to remove the 1/4" dia or so pin the handle would engage in. It is held through the end of the camshaft by a set screw threaded into the camshaft. The screw presses on a flat in the middle of the pin inside the camshaft end.
Take the set screw out, slide the pin out, prise the old seal out with 2 screwdrivers. Put a new seal in; important, the same way around as the old seal. Reassemble. If you don't have a Yanmar parts
dealer handy take the old seal to a general motor parts
supply shop such as mechanics would go to. They will likely have the same part cheaper than Yanmar. Take a cellphone photo
on disassembly to make sure the new seal goes in the correct way around. The old seal won't look worn so just change it. It's harder to write than do. If in doubt ask the dealer which way around the seal goes.
A very easy job. No gaskets, no pullers needed, just a couple of screwdrivers and 15 minutes.
I don't like the idea of drilling a hole to let the leaking oil into the bilges. Unless there are mosquitos breeding in the bilges and you want to get rid of them.
If you're still not sure about the seal change get back to me. These instructions are better than the first ones I wrote as I've since remembered details. My boat is resting 12 km away as it's still winter here in Auckland
NZ with 40 knots blowing yesterday. Changing that seal instantly fixed my oil leak. G.O.