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Old 27-02-2016, 03:01   #1
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How to Bleed my Yanmar GM30 fuel line

Can somebody walk me through the procedure of bleeding the air from the fuel line of my Yanmar GM 30 F diesel?

All help truly appreciated.

Thanks folks,

G2L
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Old 27-02-2016, 06:00   #2
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Re: How to Bleed my Yanmar GM30 fuel line

There are two bolts that take 10 mm wrenches. One is on top of the engine starboard side the other is above the fuel pump. You need to find them. The rest is easy.


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Old 27-02-2016, 07:17   #3
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Re: How to Bleed my Yanmar GM30 fuel line

Bleeding GM Series Engines:

1. Open the small BLEED SCREW on top of the engine mounted fuel filter and operate the fuel lift pump by hand*.

2. After the fuel filter has been purged of air, close the bleed screw (don't do it too tight, it's only little) and open the one on the fuel injection pump.

3. Again, after the air has been purged, close the bleed screw.

- The engine should now start, if not you will have to bleed the high pressure side as follows:

4. Crack the pipe nut at each injector, open the decompression levers and rotate the engine with the starter motor.

5. When the air appears to have been purged (the fuel looks clear, not whitish or frothy), tighten the nuts firmly, close the decompression levers and start the engine.

- Check for leaks and clean up any spilt fuel.

* If the HAND PRIMING LEVER doesn't have any resistance through any of its travel, rotate the engine crankshaft through 360deg. Use the starter motor or crank handle.
There is no resistance to the hand priming lever because the internal actuating arm is on the top of the cam that drives it. Rotating the engine crankshaft 360deg will turn the camshaft 180deg, the arm will now be on the back of it's cam and you should feel resistance when operating the hand priming lever.
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Old 27-02-2016, 08:06   #4
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Re: How to Bleed my Yanmar GM30 fuel line

Quote:
Originally Posted by GordMay View Post
Bleeding GM Series Engines:
-----* If the HAND PRIMING LEVER doesn't have any resistance through any of its travel, rotate the engine crankshaft through 360deg. Use the starter motor or crank handle.
There is no resistance to the hand priming lever because the internal actuating arm is on the top of the cam that drives it. Rotating the engine crankshaft 360deg will turn the camshaft 180deg, the arm will now be on the back of it's cam and you should feel resistance when operating the hand priming lever.
After all these years I never knew that. Duh.
Thanks Gord.
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Old 27-02-2016, 08:31   #5
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Re: How to Bleed my Yanmar GM30 fuel line

The hand priming pump lever moves about 1.5 inches but only the last .25 inch actually pumps fuel. You will not feel any resistance for the first 1.25 inches of the stroke. That is normal.
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Old 27-02-2016, 08:32   #6
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Re: How to Bleed my Yanmar GM30 fuel line

Quote:
Originally Posted by GordMay View Post
Bleeding GM Series Engines:

1. Open the small BLEED SCREW on top of the engine mounted fuel filter and operate the fuel lift pump by hand*.

2. After the fuel filter has been purged of air, close the bleed screw (don't do it too tight, it's only little) and open the one on the fuel injection pump.

3. Again, after the air has been purged, close the bleed screw.

- The engine should now start, if not you will have to bleed the high pressure side as follows:

4. Crack the pipe nut at each injector, open the decompression levers and rotate the engine with the starter motor.

5. When the air appears to have been purged (the fuel looks clear, not whitish or frothy), tighten the nuts firmly, close the decompression levers and start the engine.

- Check for leaks and clean up any spilt fuel.

* If the HAND PRIMING LEVER doesn't have any resistance through any of its travel, rotate the engine crankshaft through 360deg. Use the starter motor or crank handle.
There is no resistance to the hand priming lever because the internal actuating arm is on the top of the cam that drives it. Rotating the engine crankshaft 360deg will turn the camshaft 180deg, the arm will now be on the back of it's cam and you should feel resistance when operating the hand priming lever.
Thank you sir - very helpful.

My fuel line is made of see-through reinforced chem hose, so it seems obvious from observing the line that the fuel is not milky and has no bubbles in it.

So, perhaps water in the fuel is not the problem, but a clogged fuel filter or fuel feed pump is the real issue.

Your thoughts?

G2L
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Old 27-02-2016, 08:35   #7
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Re: How to Bleed my Yanmar GM30 fuel line

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOffice View Post
There are two bolts that take 10 mm wrenches. One is on top of the engine starboard side the other is above the fuel pump. You need to find them. The rest is easy.


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Thanks for the wrench specs.

Looks right.

G2L
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Old 27-02-2016, 08:53   #8
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My Fuel Filter Pump and Lever Seem to be Unique

Quote:
Originally Posted by Liam Wald View Post
The hand priming pump lever moves about 1.5 inches but only the last .25 inch actually pumps fuel. You will not feel any resistance for the first 1.25 inches of the stroke. That is normal.
The interesting part ls that the lever on my fuel feed pump seems to not match your description above, and it seems to have nothing to do with the internal lever that runs off the cam on most GM30 diesels.

For instance, the lever on my pump does not move more than 1/3 inch in any direction. Also, it is situated under the fuel feed pump in a forward to aft configuration, while my service manual shows a pump with the cam lever screwed into the interior, starboard side of the pump, connecting to the cam from starboard to port. The lever shown does not protrude outside of the fuel feed pump casing, and is accessed by loosening a screw on the outside of the casing. Worth noting is that my engine is an early 90's model.

Not sure why my lever is so odd or what function it may have. The service manual illustration suggests that there may be different types of fuel feed pumps that may come with the engine.

Any input is welcomed.

G2L
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:59   #9
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Clsarification plus photos

Quote:
Originally Posted by Liam Wald View Post
The hand priming pump lever moves about 1.5 inches but only the last .25 inch actually pumps fuel. You will not feel any resistance for the first 1.25 inches of the stroke. That is normal.
Clarification: The hand-controlled lever on the fuel feed pump moves perhaps .75 inches total. When in a horizontal position, I can push down on the lever about .25 inches, and this is where I can feel a slight amount of resistance. Pushing the lever .5 inches upwards from its horizontal position offers no resistance at all.

Also, the stock, fuel feed pump is old and apparently dysfunctional, judging by the fact that the previous owner installed an electric pump and fuel filter, positioned BEFORE the mechanical pump and stock fuel pump. We have replaced both the PO's parts with newer parts.

Please note this clarification and the attached photos; then, let me know what you think the problem might be. Note that the photos may need to be rotated, in order to be useful.

Thanks,

G2L
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Old 01-03-2016, 10:09   #10
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Please see my latest photos and responses to Liam

Quote:
Originally Posted by GordMay View Post
Bleeding GM Series Engines:

1. Open the small BLEED SCREW on top of the engine mounted fuel filter and operate the fuel lift pump by hand*.

2. After the fuel filter has been purged of air, close the bleed screw (don't do it too tight, it's only little) and open the one on the fuel injection pump.

3. Again, after the air has been purged, close the bleed screw.

- The engine should now start, if not you will have to bleed the high pressure side as follows:

4. Crack the pipe nut at each injector, open the decompression levers and rotate the engine with the starter motor.

5. When the air appears to have been purged (the fuel looks clear, not whitish or frothy), tighten the nuts firmly, close the decompression levers and start the engine.

- Check for leaks and clean up any spilt fuel.

* If the HAND PRIMING LEVER doesn't have any resistance through any of its travel, rotate the engine crankshaft through 360deg. Use the starter motor or crank handle.
There is no resistance to the hand priming lever because the internal actuating arm is on the top of the cam that drives it. Rotating the engine crankshaft 360deg will turn the camshaft 180deg, the arm will now be on the back of it's cam and you should feel resistance when operating the hand priming lever.
Gord,

Please see my latest photos responses to Liam. They will help to define the situation.

Thanks, as always, for sharing your expertise w. newbies like me.

Best regards,

G2L
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Old 01-03-2016, 10:34   #11
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Re: How to Bleed my Yanmar GM30 fuel line

G2l,
I believe the return spring on your lever is not functioning. It should rise to the top of its travel when released.

Indeed the pumping part of the stroke is near the bottom of the total movement of the lever. About a quarter inch or so to my eye.
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Old 01-03-2016, 10:53   #12
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Re: How to Bleed my Yanmar GM30 fuel line

After bleeding the secondary/engine mounted fuel filter, I loosen the bleed bolt on top of the injection pump and bleed it until fuel flows. I rarely, if ever, have to bleed the individual injectors unless air entered the fuel system beyond the injection pump. Good luck and safe sailing.
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Old 01-03-2016, 11:07   #13
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Re: How to Bleed my Yanmar GM30 fuel line

Did you replace the filters? Wont start? The fuel pump only moves fuel to the high pressure injector pump. Once fuel is bled to the injector pump you MUST crank the engine to get fuel through the injector pump and then bled at each injector. This CANNOT be done without cranking the engine. Did you replace the banjo washers at the lift pump? Common problem lots of info here.
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Old 01-03-2016, 11:21   #14
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pirate Re: How to Bleed my Yanmar GM30 fuel line

Or.. you could be lazy like me and perma fit a rubber bulb pump into your line at a handy spot then crack open the furthest injector and start squeezing..
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Old 01-03-2016, 18:20   #15
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Re: How to Bleed my Yanmar GM30 fuel line

Yeah that wont work. Lol
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