How do I take off this shaft?

[hd002e]

This shaft is off of a Volvo Penta 2002. I have taken off two of the large allen bolts but there is one slit and one round hole that is sealed with a black sealent (you will see in the photos), not sure what those are.

I took photos at every 90 degrees.

Any help taking this off would be appreciated! Thank you.

How do I take off

[a64pilot]

Normally unbolt the adapter from the transmission flange, slide the whole thing back a few inches, then tap some wedges into this slots to expand them, screwdrivers are often used and tap the adapter off.
Sometimes heat and beat, sometimes a little penetrant helps, most often it comes off without too much effort.
Very small shaft though, what size boat, engine?
I'm assuming prop shaft?

[boatpoker]

I have been working for six days to get one off. In Indiantown right now my weather station shows 90 degrees, 82% humidity and says it fells like 106 degrees........ I just got back from Harbour Freight with a 7" disc grinder (and a stand up a/c from Lowes)

[kentobin]

Looks like you'll have to follow this procedure:
Driveshaft coupling removal DIY, AIR TOOL version - CorrectCraftFan.com Forums

You have to be careful and apply pressure evenly or the coupler can crack.

I've seen other webpages describing this process. Do a little web searching and I'm sure you'll find them. Everyone adds a little more information to your databank.

[Blue Stocking]

Remove the cap screws connecting the 2 flange faces, slide shaft back a bit and place something slightly smaller than the shaft, like a socket or a nut against the shaft, and pull the screws back up tight. The insert will push the shaft out. Lots of Liquid Wrench sprayed in.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by Blue Stocking

Remove the cap screws connecting the 2 flange faces, slide shaft back a bit and place something slightly smaller than the shaft, like a socket or a nut against the shaft, and pull the screws back up tight. The insert will push the shaft out. Lots of Liquid Wrench sprayed in.

Been doing this for six days with PB Blaster and alternating heat and freeze spray. Tomorrow that pig gets cut off !

[hd002e]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Normally unbolt the adapter from the transmission flange, slide the whole thing back a few inches, then tap some wedges into this slots to expand them, screwdrivers are often used and tap the adapter off.
Sometimes heat and beat, sometimes a little penetrant helps, most often it comes off without too much effort.
Very small shaft though, what size boat, engine?
I'm assuming prop shaft?

When you refer to the adapter, are those the bolts parallel to the shaft? Where you see four of them that attach to a rubber piece that goes into the transmission? I indicated them with the arrow in the attached photo.

The engine is 18hp for a 30' beneteau. The prop shaft is about an inch in diameter. Thank you very much for your help!

[um saudade]

I am loathe to comment for comment's sake and I seldom write anything unless I feel I can positively contribute to the situation. Having said that I am going out on a limb here and suggest that the black rubber in the hole on the coupler is your secret to getting this off. No matter how much the two parts of the coupler pinch the shaft, that is not what locks the shaft into the coupler, that job is done by a pin or set screw that I suspect is hiding under the black.

It looks like it has been butchered in the past so no telling what's under there now. Figure that out and the coupler and shaft will separate.

Use of force when you don't know how something works usually results in the purchase of new things in your life, whether you wanted to or not.

[DougR]

The four Allen head screws running fore and aft hold the coupling to the transmission output flange and the other two Allen screws clamp the shaft within the coupling. Normally the procedures as mentioned here are adequate to remove the shaft coupling from the transmission as well as the shaft from within the clamp coupling.

The thing that's a little different from most clamp couplings is the extra hole which is in the clamp end of the coupling. Perhaps someone has drilled and tapped that hole and installed a set screw. If so, that could make removal difficult without removing the set screw first. You might clean that area up and look for a set screw ( grub screw).

DougR

[Blue Stocking]

Originally Posted by um saudade

I am loathe to comment for comment's sake and I seldom write anything unless I feel I can positively contribute to the situation. Having said that I am going out on a limb here and suggest that the black rubber in the hole on the coupler is your secret to getting this off. No matter how much the two parts of the coupler pinch the shaft, that is not what locks the shaft into the coupler, that job is done by a pin or set screw that I suspect is hiding under the black.

It looks like it has been butchered in the past so no telling what's under there now. Figure that out and the coupler and shaft will separate.

Use of force when you don't know how something works usually results in the purchase of new things in your life, whether you wanted to or not.

This was my first thought as well, but the hole at the end of the split looks clean. FWIW, I spent 2 days draped over my W46 like a puppy humping a soccer ball, trying to separate Blue's shaft and coupling. When we got it out discovered the shaft keyway way milled a fraction off radial centre
Bronze key had distorted while being pressed on apparently.

[Suijin]

Originally Posted by hd002e

When you refer to the adapter, are those the bolts parallel to the shaft? Where you see four of them that attach to a rubber piece that goes into the transmission? I indicated them with the arrow in the attached photo.

The engine is 18hp for a 30' beneteau. The prop shaft is about an inch in diameter. Thank you very much for your help!

Adapter = coupling

Why are you trying to disassemble this? If you can possibly leave the coupling on the shaft, and get by with just removing the coupling from the transmission that would be preferable as it makes alignment much easier when you go to reassemble.

[Terra Nova]

The last photo depicts what could be a pin or setscrew.

[Reefmagnet]

The hole is to stop the slit cracking under load. The hole in the last photo is a grub screw locking the shaft. It needs removing if not already done. Best chance before reaching for the saw is to disconnect the coupler from the transmission flange and then get a piece of thick steel flat bar made with threaded holes to allow the coupler to be bolted directly to it. This flat bar substitutes for the transmission flange so that there is no danger of damaging the flange during the next step. Use high tensile steel bolts and a socket as previously mentioned between the flat bar and shaft to act as a push rod. Progressively tighten each bolt whilst applying liberal bolt release agent along with carefully placed taps from a copper, or similar, mallet. Fingers crossed it will eventually release.

Worst case scenario, if you need to cut the shaft off, it's better (i.e. cheaper and easier to make good) to destroy the coupler rather than the shaft. Good luck!

[motion30]

The whole with the black sealer more than likely holds a pin
My boat has the same stock couplers with the pin and there's also a keyway. Drive the pin out or make sure there's nothing there then you can heat the coupler a little bit with a small torch and knock it off with a block of wood and a 3lb mall

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by Blue Stocking

Remove the cap screws connecting the 2 flange faces, slide shaft back a bit and place something slightly smaller than the shaft, like a socket or a nut against the shaft, and pull the screws back up tight. The insert will push the shaft out. Lots of Liquid Wrench sprayed in.

Been doing this for six days with PB Blaster and alternating heat and freeze spray. Tomorrow that pig gets cut off !