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Old 10-08-2018, 12:52   #46
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

not sure if this is the problem but ...

our small Honda engine was doing a similar thing it turned out the bearing in the end assembly/ prop housing had a bearing that would tighten under load and as it got hot it was sufficient to stall the engine after 5 mins or less we could restart and run for a bit then the same thing .
Finally pulled the prop assembly run the engine for 20 mins no issue
THESE SMALL ENGINES ARE ALWAYS A CHALLENGE ..
REPLACED BEARING AND ALL IS GOOD SO FAR
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Old 10-08-2018, 15:29   #47
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

Don’t know how committed you are to 6 hp but for the cost and frustration of fixing that motor, you could buy a brand new Honda, air cooled, 4 stroke 2.3 hp. Few moving parts, simple, reliable and it just sips a few drops of gas. OK, you can’t water ski behind it but if you just need push an inflatable dinghy to shore and back, and you’re not in a hurry, it’s fine.

I just noticed that this post follows a post about Honda problems, perhaps reducing credibility, but I’m sticking to our Honda, and never had a problem with our previous one.
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Old 10-08-2018, 16:02   #48
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

I think your motor might be seizing--which means it is not getting any cooling water circulating. When the engine starts and is in the water--is any water coming out of the outlet hole at a goodly rate of flow?

If not--you have found the problem.

The solution requires opening the engine water pump to check impeller, and working one's way through the water galleries removing corrosion products and any bits of weed or debris which could block up the small holes through which the water passes--and before you finish, check the thermostat is not locked shut or blocked, and is opening when placed into water about 200 Fahrenheit. It should open fully at less than this. Replace it if it does not--this could be your problem or a large part of it..

Ok--having gotten rid of all of that dust and white crap--you now need to clean the corroded metal surfaces carefully and varnish them with two-pack clear polyurethane. Some people prefer epoxy, but I like the polyurethane.

This might get you another ten years of useful life--but if the engine has been seizing, and it is a four stroke--the chances are the cylinders are scored and the rings have lost tension. A two stroke will continue to operate with loose rings--even if not at its original level.
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Old 10-08-2018, 16:56   #49
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

Sometimes a CDI unit will run till it gets warm then will fail. You can try putting a couple of composition type washers under the mounting bolts,this will keep the heat away from the unit. If that doesnt work run a "earth " wire from the unit body to the block as an auxiliary earth. CDI units can be repaired by people with the right gear as they are not cheap.
Will be interested in your fix! Which doesnt include seeing if it will float!
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Old 10-08-2018, 17:06   #50
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

Many posts of good suggestions. We have a 2002 Mercury Mariner 15 2-st. It has failed to perform many times. I am please to share my observations and discoveries with a fellow sufferer.

Remember, Ethanol is not your friend. If I could, I would require every politician responsible for forcing that motor poison down our throats into a dinghy 100 Miles off shore with an old outbound and ethanol fuel.

We used our dinghy in the Great Lakes for three years making sure to use only the non-ethanol fuel. No problems ever. We left Michigan and headed out the Welland and St Lawrence to Nova Scotia, Maine, Long Leland Sound, NYC and the Cheasapeake. Pure fuel was increasingly hard to find or impossible.

In the Hudson River, the fuel pickup tube fell off inside the tank. A casualty of Ethanol. Had I known, I could have turned the tank on end and run the motor.

The motor was unreliable in the Chesapeake. I could make it run by pumping the bulb often. Eventually, I discovered the fuel line inner wall had de laminated from the rubber and shards of the lining were plugging the carburetor, inlet strainer and hose quick connect. Ethanol strikes again. I replaced the hose with ethanol proof fuel hose from NAPA.

We joined a rally and went to the Caribbean. In Martinique, no more ethanol, BUT, the throttle plunger bellows hardened and most of the rubber fell off. It was leaking tons of fuel and the motor left us stranded off shore in Marin harbor. ETHANOL wrecked this bellows. Fortunately, I had a complete spare kit. You see the end of this plunger where the choke linkage taps it when you pull the choke.

I have removed and disassembled the carburetor twice and found little bits of rubber and junk in the jets. Can’t prove it but likely Ethanol.

The latest, the motor looses power if the tank is half full or less and it is rough and the throttle is full. The dip tube in the gas tank split lengthwise, permitting air in if the fuel level is low. ETHANOL hardened and cracked that tube.

Check also the O-rings and seal where the fuel line connects to the motor. An air leak here will kill the motor.

Wash down the inside occasionally and use a spray rust preventative.

Twice now, the linkages have become stiff and needed to be cleaned and oiled.

Water in the fuel will make it run badly or die. We are adding a largish fuel filter and water separator on the transom of the dinghy this season. We have one of the “proper type” fuel tanks with a water separator weir crossing the middle of the tank bottom. If you suspect water, stand the tank upright. Let the water over the weir. Slowly set it back down with the fuel pick up at the high, usually forward, end. The water will stay trapped on the other side of the weir. Many new tanks and after market tanks do not have this feature because their designers are as ignorant as the politicians who started the mess.
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Old 10-08-2018, 18:27   #51
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

We had the same problem two weeks ago with our 15hp Mercury. Turned out to be the carburetor float had a pin-hole leak and had had filled up with petrol over time. Changed the the float... problem solved.

Ethanol laced gasoline in the US is a major problem for outboards.
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Old 10-08-2018, 18:42   #52
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

For parts I recommend Boats.net. Great prices & service.

https://www.boats.net/
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Old 10-08-2018, 20:57   #53
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

Was the gas in the tank old fuel ? If the mechanic didnt use solvents when fiddling with it , i suggest dumping the fuel , mix some seafoam in new fuel. Run it while adjusting the needle valves . Check online where the needles need to be . That should be in terms of turns off of seated needle. Check for procedure , such as screw in clockwise until seated, then back off the amount of turns counterclockwise, for example 1 1/2 turns. Likely you will have a idle jet and a high speed jet. My guess is the high speed jet is varnished.
This is all soeculation based on the fuel starving issue at open trottle.
Good luck.
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Old 10-08-2018, 21:06   #54
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

To add one further possible cause!:
I had a diesel engine which exhibited exactly the same symptom. It turned out to be an air-intake tube which collapsed when the engine was put under load. So maybe a check on the air-intake filter might be worth trying....
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Old 11-08-2018, 04:32   #55
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

Mercury equals MISERY..
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Old 11-08-2018, 05:23   #56
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

Quote:
Originally Posted by travellerw View Post
Thats an easy one. If the problem goes away with the choke partially pulled out, then its %100 a plugged jet.

Dismantle the carburetor and clean all the jets and carb body thoroughly. This includes soaking the jets in carb clean for 30 min or so and then blowing out with compressed air. After that, hold the jets up to the sun and make sure you can see light through all the holes. In rare cases a jet cleaner (basically a tiny wire) needs to be passed through the holes as the particle is not soluable in carb cleaner (a tiny piece of sand). However, EXTREME CARE is required as the wire can break off essentially destroying the jet.

P.S. No, spraying carb cleaning down the throat of the carb will not solve that problem. It must be dismanlted.
I had similar issues with my Evinrude 4hp
Meticulously cleaned the carb and jets
And then it ran fine for a bit, then had to do it again.
After the second time I switched to
a Pre-mixed fuel with No Ethanol
So far no issues in two seasons.
Itís crazy expensive but worth it.
This engine is an auxiliary on my daysailer
and I much prefer to sail on and off the dock
so it can be weeks between use.
If it was on a dingy in remote places
I would get really good at cleaning the carb
and carry a bunch of spare parts
rebuild kit and spare jets for the carb
Cheers
Neil
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Old 11-08-2018, 08:39   #57
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

I would order a brand new carburetor and put it on. Keep the old one and order a rebuild kit. Watch youtube or get someone that knows how to rebuild carbs to teach you how on the old one. That will give you a good skill set and a spare. I just repaired my Merc Jet 15hp with similar problems, it was the carb and that little aggravating diaphragm fuel pump. Order extra pump they are made cheaply now days and will fail at the worst time.
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Old 11-08-2018, 10:12   #58
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

"He had a mechanic rebuild/service the carburetor ($300) and still have the same problem."
There are many alleged mechanics. If I paid one to rebuild an engine and it didn't work right? I'd take it back and say "Takee fixee" without any qualms.
Stripping and rebuilding a carb or outboard head or fuel pump is not rocket science. There are rebuild kits and books on how to use them. One smelly afternoon, spread across a worktable covered with newspaper and some paper towels at hand, and a bucket of Gumout or carb cleaner, and they really can be rebuilt properly.
If I had to hazard a guess, I'd say that an engine which couldn't run at high loads, was usually not getting enough fuel. If everything in the fuel delivery system seems right, it might have an internal blockage (i.e. in the carb jets) but sometimes it is as easy as "Oh, I forgot to fully open the fuel vent on the tank."
Yes, don't ask me how I know that.

Really, as Rick said, it just takes a bit of patience. Yes, it can be a smelly PITA but overall, I find that it takes longer, is more expensive, and is generally going to raise your blood pressure more trying to find a REAL mechanic.

And even the best of them are only human. The phone rings, the door opens, something interrupts and something gets forgotten or overlooked. Better to DIY, and take plenty of cell phone pictures to help make sure of where the extra parts should have gone when you get done.(G)
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Old 11-08-2018, 11:46   #59
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

Quote:
Originally Posted by travellerw View Post
Here is the first thing I would do..

Take the dinghy for a ride at full throttle WHILE GENTLY PUMPING THE FUEL BULB. If that solves the problem then its defnately a fuel delivery issue. I would then change all the filters (even the hidden one under the cowel), then the fuel pump. Guessing it will be the fuel pump.

If pumping the fuel bulb does not solve the problem then its most likely an electrical issue (either the coil or CDI box).
I doubt this could be an electrical issue. Check fuel pump and filter, if they are OK then adjust float valve or get a new carburetor.

My experience: I have the same problem with a little Nissan 2.5hp. It has no fuel pump, only gravity feed from the built-in tank. And really no fuel filter except for the tiny one in the tank outlet. If I disconnect fuel line at carb, I get a nice constant flow of fuel.

The motor runs great at idle, as long as you want. But a minute after going to mid or high throttle range, it dies. Can be restarted after waiting a minute for carb to refull with fuel, then the same symptoms all over again. If I got the float valve set just right, which is almost impossible, it would run under load continuously. If float valve set slightly too open, it floods. Float valve set too closed, it runs fine under full throttle for about 1 minute, then dies. Maybe I need new carb if the float valve seat is worn and causes this flooding.
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Old 11-08-2018, 12:06   #60
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Re: Help us before my husband throws our Mercury outboard in the water!

Many replies here are missing the point: the OP's motor runs fine under high load for a short time then dies, but will idle OK. If it runs fine (not missing, not smoking, etc,) under full throttle for more than 10 or 20 seconds, then there is nothing wrong with the fuel itself or dirty jets in the carb. Ignition system might be affected by heat, but in short timeframe, very unlikely.

Pretty sure OP just not getting enough fuel in the bowl, when throttle set in higher range.
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