Almost guaranteed to be the anti-syphon valve sticking closed. Had that happen on my Volvo MD2b
. Unfortunately, I got it started using the compression
releases without being sure the water
had been pumped out of the cylinders and bent a rod. Damn, water
just doesn't like to compress.
rebuilt the engine
under warranty but still insisted an anti-syphon valve was the way to go. Engine
filled with water once again the first time I didn't shut off the coolant
inlet valve. I pumped the sump as dry as I could and refilled with oil
. Then popped the compression
releases and turned the engine over with the starter till it had thoroughly pumped out liquid water. Once I was sure the engine was free of water, started it up and let it run for an hour. Shut it down and changed the oil
. Started it up again and let it run for another hour. Checked the oil and no sign of water so I was good to go. Believe it's important to get the engine started once the water is out of the cylinders and sump. Running the engine will evaporate out any trace water that is left in the cylinders and crankcase and insure that the injectors don't corrode up.
After that, removed the valve from the Anti-Syphon loop and replaced with 1/4" hose barb and hose with a loop run as high in the boat as I could get it exiting via a thru-hull on the side of the boat where I could see it. Can check to be sure that it is not plugged by seeing water dribble out of it. If I was to do it again, would run the hose into the cockpit
where it would be easier to check. No more problems with the engine or with it filling with water for the 10 years thereafter of our ownership