Gunk in Sump

[bigman1]

I have a bitch of a problem,replaced cylinder head gasket(perkins 4.107 raw water cooled)influx of seawater convinced me H/gasket was away,engine fires up ok,but no oil pressure,have put that down to the grey oily gunk in sump,big problem is i can't get the gunk out of sump,have tried various dipstick pumps no good,iam getting desparate,have considered drilling hole in sump and patching up after oil refill,any advice please.Thanks.Ronnie

[Laidback]

Originally Posted by bigman1

I have a bitch of a problem,replaced cylinder head gasket(perkins 4.107 raw water cooled)influx of seawater convinced me H/gasket was away,engine fires up ok,but no oil pressure,have put that down to the grey oily gunk in sump,big problem is i can't get the gunk out of sump,have tried various dipstick pumps no good,iam getting desparate,have considered drilling hole in sump and patching up after oil refill,any advice please.Thanks.Ronnie

Hello Ronnie,
Don't really understand "H/gasket was away" ???
Do understand "no oil pressure" :- does that mean pressure not recorded on gauge ? or does it mean the gauge is not functioning because sender not working ?

Ronnie, whatever, if the sump contains sea or fresh water mixed in the lubricating oil, then a) you will have to drain the contaminated oil completely. Not sure if removing the 'gunk' via dip stick hole or via sump plug will be enough. Your report sounds like you will need to remove the engine to thoroughly clean it and check it out before reinstalling in the boat.

[Sailmonkey]

Why not just drop the pan off the bottom of the engine???????
then clean, replace, load with a lighter oil, run for a few, drain, fill with proper oil, shake, serve over ice, enjoy.

[Laidback]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

Why not just drop the pan off the bottom of the engine???????
then clean, replace, load with a lighter oil, run for a few, drain, fill with proper oil, shake, serve over ice, enjoy.

That process is hard enough to carry out when the engine is out in a workshop.
What would you suggest is used to clean this engine - removing any trace of salt from the oil galleries etc.

[Sailmonkey]

I've taken the pan off of several engines while in the boat, even those that had an oil cooler failure. When I put them back together (after making sure the pickup tube for the oil pump was clear) I filled them with ATF (yes I know I'll take some flaming for this) ran them for 5-10 minutes to attempt to circulate out the grey emulsified oil, then changed the oil (and filter) again for the proper weight oil. Sure you may need another oil change in another 10-20 hours, but at this point is that really a big deal?

[btrayfors]

I'd bet there's a removable plug on the oil pan at the forward end (opposite end from the transmission). There was in my 4-108, and I had a major gunk problem.

The problem arose mostly because in the 20 years or so of the engine's life oil changes had been (almost) accomplished by sucking old oil out of the dipstick. DON'T DO THAT. It results in very incomplete evacuation of the old oil and any gunk. It's messy, and you hate to do it so don't do it as often as need be.

We removed the plug in the oil pan, and spend several hours helping the gunk out of the pan using coat hangers, probes, long screwdrivers, and anything else we could stick in. Then, we put a whole lot of oil thru the engine. Pour it in the top, get it out the bottom. Very messy and very painstaking, but effective.

We then fitted a new plug in the oilpan with a nipple to which was attached a hose leading to a new electric oil exchanger. This allowed us to: (1) pump in new oil thru the oilpan; and (2) evacuate the contents pretty completely, just by flipping a switch one way or another. We did this a lot.

After a few more oil changes, the contents of the oil pan were pretty clean. Now, I can change the oil in my 4-108 in less than 5 minutes with no muss, no fuss. And, I know that it is being more or less completely exchanged.

Bill

[Laidback]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

I've taken the pan off of several engines while in the boat, even those that had an oil cooler failure. When I put them back together (after making sure the pickup tube for the oil pump was clear) I filled them with ATF (yes I know I'll take some flaming for this) ran them for 5-10 minutes to attempt to circulate out the grey emulsified oil, then changed the oil (and filter) again for the proper weight oil. Sure you may need another oil change in another 10-20 hours, but at this point is that really a big deal?

Don't believe necessary for anyone to pass inflammatory comment ! Presume you mean ATF to be 'Automatic Transmission Fluid' as the cleaning agent to remove any and all contaminants from this engine.
In addition once the ATF is drained, how about using flushing oil -- say SAE 10, after that add the normal oil with a new filter?

Of course the above presupposes that this engine's sump can be removed in-situ.

[Minggat]

I kinda think the wrong question is being asked and responded to.

Originally Posted by bigman1

....engine fires up ok,but no oil pressure,have put that down to the grey oily gunk in sump,....

NO oil pressure, so gunk is the problem?

[Sailmonkey]

if it's too thick to pump you won't see much in the way of oil pressure, also depending on the type of gauge (mechanical tube vs electronic variable resistance) the tube may be causing a pressure drop over it's length caused by the greater viscosity of the sludge.

[Minggat]

OK, I'm quick to assume things. Not good. I assume that OP has changed the oil simply because he changed the head gasket. If my assumption is correct however, residual "gunk" should be pretty well diluted. I'm just saying ZERO oil pressure because of residual gunk?

[Sailmonkey]

Just re-reading the OP sounds like the oil is so thick that it cannot be removed by conventional methods.

[Minggat]

OK, guilty here. I think you may be right. And reading Laidbacks response covers things I was going to say. The only think I would add at this point is... things look worse still because he says he can fire it. He's started the engine with now badly contaminated oil.

I'm shutting up

[Jesse]

Press an electric oil pan heater against the oil sump, its aluminum and will transfere heat very well. Once heated thoroughly the grey semisolid gunk will liquify and can be pumped through the dipstick tube. Replace the amount removed plus 1qt. with a multigrade high detergent motor oil, (thinner works better), start it and if you have oil pressure and are comfortable with the way it sounds and acts bring it up to operating temp. and shut it down and change back to the proper oil and run it carefully for a few hours and repeat till you are certain the oil is free of salt water. The salt water leak must be stopped first of course.

[Laidback]

Minggat,
your comments legit - The original post has "influx of seawater"
But does not make it clear if this seawater is now mixed in the engines lubricating oil.
On the assumption that the oil IS contaminated with seawater - then much more serious than fresh water.

[Minggat]

Laidback,
Yes, got it. I'm more specifically refering to the SOP of changing the oil after changine the head gasket. But bigger than that, he has fire the engine with what appears to be contamination on top of contamination in crankcase oil.