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Ketchgould · 22-03-2014, 05:14

I just put in new points and condenser after destroying the old ones when I had the engine rewired wrong. I believe I have the engine rewired right now. I suspect I destroyed my coil too. I had the lead that runs from coil to points grounded, which was wrong.

I have 12.9 volts at the coil now, also at the points. I bought a spark tester and I am getting no spark out of wire from coil to distributor. These are the first points and condenser I have ever installed. I am going to switch to electronic ignition once I know I have the engine running again.

My multimeter read 3.8 and then 3.3 ohms between posts on coil.

Any ideas what/ where to check next?

Replace coil?

Thanks

**HappyMdRSailor** · 22-03-2014, 05:45

Ketch...

It's hard to kill a coil, but you might have with a long term grounding....

Sounds like your coil is ok IF you are getting a good BLUE spark...

For an average std coil...

Ohm readings pos-neg should be 1 - 8 ohm, 3 to 4 ohm being average...
Center Hi-tension wire to either terminal should be high but not open... 10-15k ohm

Another test for your coil... Take your hot lead, connect to coil NEG. take your POS coil, connect a wire and tap on a ground surface... You should generate a good blue HT spark... It will spark with leads swapped too... this is just old school convention...

Was your engine running right before you tried to replace points/condensor?

Ketchgould · 22-03-2014, 06:00

I removed and replaced wires from 1961. The instrument panel no longer worked so I put in new oil sensor/gauge, temp, digital tach, etc.

I have not had it running since I rewired.

Just to clarify, I do not have a blue spark coming from coil wire to cap, although the readings on coil you mentioned are what I get on my multimeter.

Did I install points wrong?

**GordMay** · 22-03-2014, 06:15

See the Ignition System test procedures, beginning page 9
Here ➥ http://support.fluke.com/find-sales/...00_ENG_K_W.PDF
Or ➥ http://www.rapid-tech.com.au/Fluke-2...the%20Book.pdf

AfterHoursNLCT · 22-03-2014, 06:25

Another old school trick:
Remove the distributor cap and the wire from the coil to distributor cap at the cap. Place the open-ended dist-coil wire near a ground and open and close the points with an screwdriver. With the ignition switch on, you should get a nice spark. If not, try running a hot wire to the coil and see what that produces. ..LL

**HappyMdRSailor** · 22-03-2014, 06:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ketchgould

I removed and replaced wires from 1961. The instrument panel no longer worked so I put in new oil sensor/gauge, temp, digital tach, etc.

I have not had it running since I rewired.

Just to clarify, I do not have a blue spark coming from coil wire to cap, although the readings on coil you mentioned are what I get on my multimeter.

Did I install points wrong?

Ketch...

Simple ignition circuit attached... If you are not getting a nice blue snappy spark from the coil when you ground the coil terminal and remove it, you've got a bad coil.. If the spark is yellow and or not able to jump a 1/4" gap, go get a new coil... cheap like $15 bucks at Autozone

Ketchgould · 27-03-2014, 12:12

Still doesn't start. I replaced coil. Ohms are 2.9, internal resistance. I have 13 volts at + coil terminal and .17 on negative terminal.

No spark on coil to distributor wire.

What should I do next?

Am I not properly grounded?

jeepbluetj · 27-03-2014, 13:36

it's the points or the wiring..... What opens/closes the lead to the coil is points - hence the prior advice to test the coil separately.

Did you set the gap on the points properly?

Setting Ignition Points

If so, trace the wires via the diagram that MDR posted. Pos to coil, then the other coil post to the points, the other side of the points are grounded to the dist... Therefore the points are a switch that puts pulses into the coil. (What it needs to make a spark)

And yup - it' easily testable with a chunk-o-wire tapping on the neg side of the coil.

Generally, a failed coil will ohm out as an open.

The only other thing I could see is a condenser that's a complete short. (Which I don't think could happen very often... like 1 in a million or so)

A condenser should ohm out very high - like infinitely high.

Ketchgould · 27-03-2014, 14:17

When you say testable with chunk of wire, where should I connect the chunk of wire from?

Thanks

jeepbluetj · 27-03-2014, 14:25

What MDR said - ground the - terminal on the coil. I'd remove the lead from the coil to the points, 'cause the points may be closed. (Which would mean it's already grounded)

Same thing as opening and closing the points manually.

At 3-4ish ohms, I'm guessing you've got a good coil.

It's a simple circuit - + --> coil --> points ---> gnd

points are just (electrically) a switch. So if you have no spark - just trace out that path.

Once you can get spark (I test about 1/8" to 1/4" away and just look for it) - make sure you see the points opening/closing when you crank the engine. Set the gap (dwell) correctly. The condenser is really only important to avoid burning out the points.

jeepbluetj · 27-03-2014, 14:27

Oh, and it's not just hook a wire from coil - to gnd to see a continuous spark - it's 1 spark per pulse. basically you pulse (tap) the test wire.

Ketchgould · 27-03-2014, 14:35

I've opened and closed the pints with a screwdriver. No spark.

I've run ht lead out of coil to ground and opened and closed points. No spark.

Coil is very warm. Too hot too touch.