Graymarine won't start...

[jeepbluetj]

Coil hot is very bad. (I'm not callable right now, I'm at work goofing off during meetings)

Coil hot means it's passing current - i.e. the points are "closed"

Bad distributor cap can cause the motor not to run, but will not cause a simple coil test to fail, 'cause the distributor cap isn't in the circuit.

Oh wait - the points aren't in the cap - they're mounted to a plate on the distributor. If that's real rusty (i.e. the points can't switch to ground) - yes, that's bad. But that's easily testable with a multimeter.

For testing a coil with a wire - watch:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJYJ3KvPhhY

Make sure you get spark that way. you may also want to ohm out the HT coil wire to make sure it's not open - i.e. it needs to be a good wire for this to work (and the gnd it's sparking to needs to be a good ground)

[jeepbluetj]

And note you don't ground the HT wire - you get it close - i.e. where the spark will jump.

[Ketchgould]

Just got it running!!! Not sure how, here is what I did though.

The wire from coil to distributor seemed like it may have been near the metal distributor do I made a wood washer to get the wire further away from housing/ ground.

Made another wood washer for inside cap so points and condenser did not ground out either.

Cleaned grime from distributor housing plate to get points to ground out.

Reset the points.

Any ideas which fix worked? Are the wood washers redundant?

Thanks for all the help. Engine hadn't been heard for four years. Launching in the spring after complete rebuild/recore job.

I am going to switch to electronic ignition, I just wanted to make sure I could operate the points ignition.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by Ketchgould

Just got it running!!! Not sure how, here is what I did though.

The wire from coil to distributor seemed like it may have been near the metal distributor do I made a wood washer to get the wire further away from housing/ ground.

Made another wood washer for inside cap so points and condenser did not ground out either.

Cleaned grime from distributor housing plate to get points to ground out.

Reset the points.

Any ideas which fix worked? Are the wood washers redundant?

Thanks for all the help. Engine hadn't been heard for four years. Launching in the spring after complete rebuild/recore job.

I am going to switch to electronic ignition, I just wanted to make sure I could operate the points ignition.

Ketch... It was the wire going from the coil to the points shorting out on the distributor housing where you made your washer... I guarantee it... It was just shorting your coil to ground with the juice never getting to the points... They sell cheapy point/condensor combos at the auto stores with a long coil lead and rubber washer for the distributor already on there... Like 7 bucks... Your points/condensor is STILL grounded with your adjustment screw... It needs to be to work...

Electronic is more environment resistant... But when you have a problem with it, you'll wish you had simple points... Keep 'em on the boat...

Congrats!!!!!!!!!!!

[jeepbluetj]

Yup - MDR likely has it correct.

Und yes, go electronic. When you do find out if you need a ballast resistor for the coil - many electronic ignitions can burn out 'typical' coils - common on the A4.

[a64pilot]

OK, go electronic, but keep the old stuff, it'll get you home when the electrons go away