Fuel line replacement

[Lennie]

I'm replacing m fuel tank and replacing the fuel lines from the tank to the primary filter. Can I replace the rigid line with garden variety flexible fuel line from the auto parts place? Or is there a better flexible fuel line alternative? Or stay with the rigid metal line.

Thanks!

[Pato]

A1 marine fuel line is best. Longer burn through time thicker O.D. So takes longer the chafe through. You could have insurance problems as well if you use automotive fuel line. As far as hard line never have been a fan of it. It can be pita to run from point A to point B Just my 2 cents

[rebel heart]

I just ran a flexible fuel line. Seriously, don't cheap out on that. Cheap out on the vent line if you want to.

SHIELDS RUBBER Series 350/355/368/369 Fire-Acol Fuel Hose at West Marine

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by Lennie

I'm replacing m fuel tank and replacing the fuel lines from the tank to the primary filter. Can I replace the rigid line with garden variety flexible fuel line from the auto parts place? Or is there a better flexible fuel line alternative? Or stay with the rigid metal line.

Thanks!

If you were to get inspected by the USCG, they would hit you on it. They are very fussy on fire danger along with PFD's and other emergency equipment. Hard lines have a tendency to leak, crack or corrode.

[CarinaPDX]

By all means replace the rigid tubing with flexible hose. But do use USCG Types A or B marine fuel hose. Current standards require these hoses to be both alcohol-resistant and low permeability, as well as meeting fire resistance standards. Don't cheap out here. Buy from Fisheries Supply (Crow's Nest) or West Marine or any number of other suppliers in the Seattle area.

Greg

[Lennie]

Not going to"cheap out" but glad to hear I can use flexible line as running rigid is a pain.

Thanks!

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by Lennie

Not going to"cheap out" but glad to hear I can use flexible line as running rigid is a pain.

Thanks!

The hose you want will have an A1-15 rating..

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by Maine Sail

The hose you want will have an A1-15 rating..

Yep, the stuff is not cheap but hopefully it'll give you enough time to get a fire out.

[Cheechako]

Is there a marine grade diesel hose that's not that huge stuff? Some of the 5/16 or 3/8 I've bought in the past was about 3/4+ or more on the OD, doesnt stay clamped that well either and not as bendy as Automotive hose....

[David M]

Either fuel hose that is rated for Diesel that meets Coast Guard standards or refrigeration grade copper tubing with flared compression fittings. The first is easier and the second is more fire resistant, never rots and is what is required for inspected passenger vessels.

You might also want to consider a remote shutoff for your fuel supply and return valves. This is a stainless steel wire pull that turns off the fuel supply and return valves at the fuel tank. This allows you to shut down the supply of fuel to the fire remotely, such as from the boats steering station. Many boats have burned to the waterline because there was no way to get to the fuel shut down valves because the fire was at those same valves. Remote fuel shutdowns are required on USCG inspected passenger vessels.

[David M]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Is there a marine grade diesel hose that's not that huge stuff? Some of the 5/16 or 3/8 I've bought in the past was about 3/4+ or more on the OD, doesnt stay clamped that well either and not as bendy as Automotive hose....

With fuel hose what is better than clamps are swages put over the barbed fittings with a JIC compression fitting. You cannot do the swages yourself, it takes a certain machine to do this. Places that make up hydraulic hoses can do this for you...in fact, the swage is the same fitting you see on hydraulic hoses. This is much more secure than using hose clamps on fuel lines.

[CarinaPDX]

Cheechako- Type B is smaller diameter than Type A hose, but should not be used for hose that is under pressure (basically after the lift pump or where a break will siphon the fuel from the tank). Type A (currently A1-15) is designed to survive 2 1/2 minutes exposed to fire; type B (currently B1-15) does not. Type B can be used between the tank and lift pump if that section is under suction. (The standard calls for less than 5 oz. leaking out if the cut is at the worst - i.e. lowest - place, so practically it must be under suction.) While you may not be required to meet these standards it is still a good idea to respect them.

Greg

[bmm32005]

I just bought 50 feet of 3/8 Trident A-1 for $104 bucks from Discount Marine Supplies. that was shipped to my door price.

[captain58sailin]

I use JIC fittings for all my fuel connections, never had an air or fuel leak from those fittings.

[delmarrey]

The nice thing about JIC's is even if they have been used they can be resealed again using these inserts. The 45º brass ones may not need resealing because of such low pressure.

I used these on the initial install of my hydraulic steering and I haven't lost a drop of fluid in 4 years.

Flaretite Seals - Clip the Drip!