Farymann Help(if needed)

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Faryparts.

[svHyLyte]

Originally Posted by Faryparts

Hello,I'm planning to manufacture couple sets of valves but they are expensive.. I have spoken with Agp power witch owns Farymann now that they are restructuring business and they will start manufacturing engines and parts but they didn't give any timetable . Could be several months.

The valves we need are for the motor that powers our Panda 4.2KW generator. A top end rebuild due to compression issues revealed that the exhaust valve is "burned". The parts department at FP indicated they were having valves machined by a company that manufactured valves for Porsche last December that were supposedly to be available by early March yet nothing has come through and FP has no idea when they might. From what I understand, there are more than a few folks that need the parts.


FWIW...

[JordanH]

Ok, so I know this thread is a couple years old but I wanted to comment so that I can find this again in the future as I have a 1980's Farymann K34 in my Contessa.


The engine has been solid. It starts first time, every time. It has been reliable over the 10 years I've owned it but it's always hard to find advice on old engines so I appreciate you offering Pete.


I do have one question though... what is the proper way to hand crank this engine? We've done it a couple times when our batteries have gone flat out on a sail. We...
1. Open the engine compartment
2. Put the crank in
3. Spin it a couple times
4. Bash our knuckles on the edge of the compartment.
5. Swear.
6. Remind the person who is cranking to watch their knuckles.
7. Spin it a few more times....
(and this is where I think things are off...)
8. Turn the key from Acc to Start



The engine then takes off and we're good. The problem with this is that I can't both crank and turn the key if I'm single-handed. And... I'm confused why I need to turn the key in the first place. Shouldn't cranking just be enough?

Finally, just to be sure I'm not missing something, there isn't a decompression lever on this engine, right? If there is... I have no idea where it is.


On an unrelated note, the previous owner "rebuilt" the engine just before I bought it. It's run well since, but it leaks a bit of oil... old salts tell me "that's normal for old engines", but I'm not convinced it should be the case.


Finally, in June 2019, I tried to contact Farymann USA about some technical specification of the K34. I received 2 terse responses, each only one line long.
1: I do not have that tech info.
2: Engines are out of production and Farymann factory has closed for good.


The thread above seems to think they may have restarted making parts... does anyone know if that happened?

[pwilletts]

Hi. The key does not need to be on to crank the engine by hand. All it does in the ON position is provide the exciter voltage to the generator and guages. In Start it just powers the starter. There is a decompression valve. It’s a small rotary knob in the throttle area it needs a special tool I think to position it. Two clicks. I never had any luck hand cranking. Just too much effort. But it can be done.
Oil leak. BS to the idea that all old engines leak. If the oil is coming from the bottom there is an access panel there which can be removed and resealed easily if u can get to it. 4 screws. Parts are an issue. However some are I interchangeable with other models. Go on the Entec West site look under parts manual and operators manual. Much to be learned there. Also use the fuel prime lever on the fuel pump. Just push until firm. These are very simple engines. Don’t be afraid of it. Good luck

Sent from my iPhone

[Tillikum]

Nice of you to make that offer pwillets.

[pwilletts]

I also have two very rare new cylinder head copper gaskets if anyone needs them...These have the groove in them...

.Also as I recall the "special tool" for the decompression valve is a knoch in the end of the manual start handle

[Tillikum]

If anyone needs a rare or out of production gasket made, these are the folks to go to. They are known to make a quality product for good prices.

[Richardkh]

Hi Pete,
Don't know if you are still active on this. I have a Farymann 15W and the water pump bearings and seals are shot so it leaks like crazy.
Have been trying to remove and rebuild the water pump, but can't get it off. From your note above it seems that I n2edcto remove the timing cover which is a potential world of pain, presumably.
Any other options to repair or replace the pump?
Thanks

[LittleWing77]

Where are you, Richard? There's a guy out in Burlington who rebuilds water pumps of every persuasion - and I suppose if he exists, there must be others... maybe talk to your local yard manager?

Fair winds,
LittleWing77

[Richardkh]

I'm UK and yes there is always someone around. I was expecting this to be doable - most other engines the pump comes off easily enough

[pwilletts]

Hi....You should be able to take the pump off easily with 4 allen bolts...the timing cover is a different part in my experience. the pumps are basically not fixable as the housing is a resin which cracks aroung the bolts and the copper lining and base plate are not available....there is however a metal replacement pump which bolts right on to the existing holes and works great...not cheap however....go th the Entec West site and look under Parts manuat and see if you recognise your engine....goog luck

[pwilletts]

By the way its very dangerous to operate the engine with the water pump leaking as water can get into the engine and cause all sorts of damage....fix it first

[Richardkh]

Originally Posted by pwilletts

Hi....You should be able to take the pump off easily with 4 allen bolts...the timing cover is a different part in my experience. the pumps are basically not fixable as the housing is a resin which cracks aroung the bolts and the copper lining and base plate are not available....there is however a metal replacement pump which bolts right on to the existing holes and works great...not cheap however....go th the Entec West site and look under Parts manuat and see if you recognise your engine....goog luck

Great, thanks for that. I think I have found the right pump, but no good if I can't work out yhow to get the old on off!
And yes not using the pump once I realised where all me seawater was coming from...
Thabnks for your help

[JFreese]

Originally Posted by pwilletts

I have gained a great deal of experience with the Farymann K34/15w engines( by necessity) and am willing to help others who have questions about these engines.....FYI despite opinions that the parts are not available I have been able to source many of them....these are simple and dependable engines....with a little love

Hi Peter,

I have a K34 (actually notes from previous owners suggest K34M) in a 1980 Contessa 26. The previous owner passed away and the owner before that has limited recollection of engine details.

The boat has been on the cradle since November 2018 but we launch this week, whether or not the following issues are resolved.

After replacing fuel filters & changing oil, I got the engine running. Starts reliably & easily, sounds great. Eager to see how it runs under load.

But it is not clear whether the starter/generator is recharging the batteries. With the engine running and the orange Guest switch set to off (as opposed to 1/both/2), I would expect to see positive voltage on the solenoid terminal; is that correct? (no voltage currently). It has a Ducati voltage regulator.

Also, can you clarify which of the 3 indicator lights (battery/temp/oil) should be lit when the key is turned to on, then when it is turned further when pressing the start button, and then when the engine is running? I only get temp when starting. (the battery lamp is dead and I need to find/cobble a replacement)

I would appreciate any help; it may be better talk directly.

[pwilletts]

Hi..First of all there were several different wiring harnesses depending on which style of indicator lites you have,,,wiring diagrams can be found online in the operaters manual,,they are very simple.
Generally with the key ON the battery light and oil lite will be ON...the TEMP lite on mine did not work until the engine was running...to check the temp lite you have to check the circuit...the bulb...and the switch itself( remove switch and imerse in boiling water and check contuinity.)
To check if the Generator is working simply check the battery voltage with the engine running..should be about 14V.,,,, regulator is very difficult to get to BTW. The wires on mine were in very poor condition, I was able to find a replacement Buggatti VR online but did not need it. Good Luck pete