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Old 03-11-2009, 10:53   #16
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Thanks Stevens.
regards
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:14   #17
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I called San Diego ME this AM and they took my order in a matter of minutes and will send it out USPS priority in a flat rate box. I'll be using them again as a source.

Thanks for the recommendation Stevens. Will let you know how I do on constructing my own.

Thanks to all for your recommendations.

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Old 03-11-2009, 20:23   #18
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Here are further comments.
I am assuming that your vent loop is after the heat exchanger in my views it is where it should be, it prevent drainage of the heat exchanger therefore scaling of the tube with consequent loss of thermal conductivity, it prevent more water draining into the water lock, disadvantage is a higher water temperature.
A common problem with the above configuration is that sometime there is no physical room to install the vent loop hose out of the heat exchanger and back into the mixer, normally a very tight rubber elbow does the connection, which need to be removed. I use automotive heater hoses, you can find them with all sort of suitable bends.
The way to overcome this is to manufacture a flanged spacer out of steel pipe, thick and seamless the better. In your case you could angle the flange in such way that the mixer looks toward the water lock. I would not go more than 7 degrees. This will reduce the bend in your hose. Vetus recommend a maximum radius of 4 D for its hose and a minimum of 30 cm or 12 inches between mixer and water lock and in some countries also sell suitable hoses. If short (60mm) I do not think the flange requires insulation. If insulation is required make sure it is of the correct heat rating and fireproof. I dislike fiberglass because it as a tendency to fall apart and find its way into the motor, it is all depending how good is your motor air intake filtration. I still use good old asbestos with SS gauze wrapping to keep heat inside the exhaust.
In my view the water lock should be installed fore and aft for best performance as heel and roll can be detrimental to its working. Vetus manufacture one with a rotating inlet.
To totally prevent water ingress into the wet exhaust a ball valve can be installed after the gooseneck into the discharge line. I use a fiberglass reinforced one which are normally tested at 70 degree C without any problem but I have a sailing boat.
The last test is to run everything and stop and measure the amount of water inside the water lock just to check that the right size as been installed.
Vetus couplings can be pretty rough and hard to seal, filing the lip smooth and using some neutral cure silicone and double clamps can overcome the problem.
Happy motoring.
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Old 04-11-2009, 00:06   #19
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Thanks Chala,
I've got plenty of room since I haven't installed any of the bulkheads except the one that my exhaust and mixer exit through before making that first turn and that the gooseneck will be mounted to. The only fiberglass tubing I'll be using is that first section where I've mark SS tubing and that is exhaust, not air intake.
Thanks for the input. I have scarring on both lungs due to asbestos inhalation so will not use asbestos anymore even though I used to prefer it.
Thanks for the vent loop ideas it will go on the engine side of that bulkhead I just mentioned and I can find a way to make the bends like you mentioned with the heater hose you suggest.
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Old 28-08-2014, 05:23   #20
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Re: Exhaust System Diagram (New System)

tag, for future reference
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