Please convince me. I'm generally openminded, but only 'believe' things that I'm forced to by experiential evidence. As much as possible, anyway.
I arrived at my splicing conclusions splicing bilge pump
and trailer light wires on ski and fishing
boats (as part of a business), and there is really no way to compare soldering versus crimping in those two applications, because I've never seen crimping last more that 3 years. My own ski boat has the soldered trailer and bilge pump wiring
that I put in it when I restored it in 1997. Also completely rewired everything, new gauges, new switch panel, new ignition, new battery
, wires and cables
all soldered and heat shrunk. All still working (as of last November anyway). To be fair I used the original engine wiring
harness and it too is still working ('79 Mercruiser) and I believe they used crimps.
A ski boat is kinda simple with comparatively few electrical
connections, so let's go up a level, in both complexity and rigorousness of use.
Between 94 and 96 a friend and I rebuilt/built an offshore
boat (now 27', the rebuilding included adding three feet, the only part of the hull
that is original is the outer 1/4" - 3/8" (we removed the mostly rotten balsa core
and replaced if with Core-cell)), Rebuilt Volvo diesel
, jack-shaft, duoprop, the whole nine yards.
Many dozens of 100 mile offshore
overnight trips, many more single
day any weather
outings, one memorable week long trip that started by getting caught on the edge of the tropical storm that formed when the remnants of Ivan looped around back into the gulf. The point being that this boat was run hard and put up wet a lot.
As far as electrical; GPS
, stereo, 3 bank battery charger
trim tabs, interior
lights, exterior lights, fishing lights, navigation
lights, two battery combiners, two battery switches, bilge
pump, baitwell pump, tilt and trim pump, three batteries.
All the wiring on all of the above, except for the trim and tilt pump (which has the Volvo
wiring), is soldered and heat shrunk. Had this boat out last week, the only thing that didn't work was the GPS
(failed crimped connector in a OEM fuse holder, and the starboard nav light (bulb). (But last year on a spur of the moment fishing trip, I ran a new wire for the down circuit in the trim/tilt system because I didn't have time to fool with it. Yes it was OEM Volvo, and yes it had crimped connectors and yes I crimped the connectors on the wire I replaced the bad one with. I was in a hurry. And it's still working but it will be fixed with soldered and heat shrunk female spade lugs at some point.
Oddly enough, the reason I'm even on this thread, is because we used (for convenience as much as anything else) the Volvo engine wiring harness (which uses crimp connectors) and I was responding to the similar autostarting problem Nomad has (or had), and it may turn out that the wiring harness connector is/was the proximate cause in both cases.
But could the ultimate cause be that the (crimped) connections within the connector started corroding, causing heat to build up in the connector, which caused distortion in the connector housing, which allowed arcing in Nomad's case and faulty grounding in mine?
Sounds like a long shot to me too; the age of the parts
alone introduces so many variables that the question applied to those particular parts
But for newer parts it is not.
So again I ask sincerely, convince me. (Thought of another objection to soldering. Slow cooling
of copper hardens it, making it brittle. Don't know how valid this is, intuitively it's not because the reverse process (annealing) takes place at higher temperatures (at least double), and longer times (hours) than soldering. But intuition is often wrong.
Also, can either of you steer me to some of the threads on the topic. Did a somewhat cursory search and advanced search but they yielded pages of results. Haven't played with the search tool much.