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Old 06-01-2012, 04:35   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jewel114
At auto parts store have them order a "Go-Nogo" set of feelers. No more expensive then normal set, but no feeling required. I had to talk the guy at NAPA into looking it up as he said there was no such thing. He was wrong.
Do you have a link or manufacture?

Rgds,

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Old 06-01-2012, 14:20   #32
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Re: Engine Alignment

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Do you have a link or manufacture?

Rgds,

Don
Have you heard of Google? Just search on "go nogo feeler gauge"

go nogo gage - Google Search
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Old 06-01-2012, 16:25   #33
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Yes Mark, I know about google, and all the other search engines. I was looking for a specific product recommendation that a fellow member may have. Sorry to have offended you by my "simple" request for information.

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Old 07-01-2012, 11:03   #34
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Old 07-01-2012, 19:22   #35
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Originally Posted by dandrews View Post
Do you have a link or manufacture?

Rgds,

Don
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Old 08-01-2012, 13:23   #36
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Originally Posted by jewel114

BrandBLACKHAWK Part NumberMT-1022 UPC662679537746BrandBLACKHAWK Part NumberMT-1022 UPC662679537746Brand BLACKHAWK Part NumberMT-1022 UPC662679537746

Try Napa, save $9 shipping
Thanks Jewel.
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Old 08-01-2012, 15:07   #37
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Re: Engine Alignment

Sailor man was spot on with the max alowable tolerances. The machined bushing in the shaft log will not work as the shaft log and the strut cannot be perfectly aligned. We are talking in 0.001 here. Any slight misalignment again in 0.001 will create coupling whip. So it follows that the only way to perfectly "center" the prop shaft so it is running "true" prior to alignment is with a dial indicator. Cradling it to hold it in place. Miss this step and you will fight your alignment for eternity.
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Old 23-01-2012, 15:15   #38
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Engine Alignment Done

I did it. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Day One: Friday Yotboss met me at the boat at 1300 hrs. We managed to loosen all of the motor mounts. Then I began to take off the coupling and found out the bolts on the tranny side had been ground down. Why would someone do that I thought to myself. Hell of a time getting them off. The bolts had been ground such that there were only two parallel sides on the bolts and some of the sides weren't all there. I jammed a screwdriver between the trans and the wrench and managed to get 3 of them off. The fourth one needed a grinder. Turns out that a teleflex cable had gotten wrapped around the coupling and it had ground the nuts to a bad way. Pictures to follow. Then a beer to celebrate our victory. Day Two: Saturday Morning broke out the new motor mounts and there were 4 of the same ones. It was supposed to be 2 /410 lbs and 2 / 230 lbs. I had 4 / 410. Shop closed. couldn't get any of the 230lb ers. Decided to use all 410's. Didn't start working till about 1400 hrs Lifted the front of the engine and installed the new mounts. Took the height from the old mounts and replaced them one at a time as Yotboss suggested. Back was a bit trickier to lift but we got the aft ones in place. Day 3: Sunday I was not able to get the flanges to touch. Finally realized that the thickness of the drive saver had set the location of the zincs. In other words I had to dive the boat and take one of the two zincs off in order to get the flanges to touch. Dove the bottom in 55^ weather. Burr Cold. Took off the wrong one. Ok dive again. Now the flanges are about 1/4" apart. Close enough to make the measurements. I found a bunch of rust on one of the engine arms. I had to detach it from the engine clean the rust off and then paint it. Lost Sunday to watching the paint dry. Sunday night I spent 2 hours crawling in and out of the lazaret to adjust the engine position. Got it to .0009". Had to work on Monday but set up to have a professional come help on Wed. Day 4: Pro showed up on time. We had it done in about 1.5 hours. Then a test motor and he spent some time teaching me how to remove the injection pump. All in all a successful project and I won't have to hire it out next time. On my boat two people make it a lot easier.

Lessons learned : 1) bent the teleflex cable and had to install a new one --remove and get it out of the way, 2) remove the right zinc next time, 3) should have removed the water muffler right away -- It was in the way for a good part of the job. 4) Check the parts that are sent before you start removing the old parts.
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Old 23-01-2012, 15:54   #39
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Congrats on getting the job done. Well Done!

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Old 23-01-2012, 17:19   #40
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Re: Engine Alignment

Congrat's! Feels good to get a job like that complete doesnt it? Typical boat job 1.5 day planned... 4 days to complete, use the wrong parts because that's what you have.... :>) BTW: what was the theory on two differnt mounts?
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Old 24-01-2012, 06:32   #41
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Re: Engine Alignment

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Congrat's! Feels good to get a job like that complete doesnt it? Typical boat job 1.5 day planned... 4 days to complete, use the wrong parts because that's what you have.... :>) BTW: what was the theory on two differnt mounts?
The theory on the motor mounts is that the rear of the engine has more weight and is subject to more torque so that it has the "harder" mounts. The softer mounts go in the front and help to smooth out the engine when it is at lower speeds. The harder ones are better at higher speeds. I have a generator so don't run the engine at idle except to warm her up and cool her down.
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Old 24-01-2012, 10:38   #42
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Re: Engine Alignment

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The theory on the motor mounts is that the rear of the engine has more weight and is subject to more torque so that it has the "harder" mounts. The softer mounts go in the front and help to smooth out the engine when it is at lower speeds. The harder ones are better at higher speeds. I have a generator so don't run the engine at idle except to warm her up and cool her down.
Actually the mounts are suppose to be left and right, not front to back! Unless you have a turbo.
That's the way my yanmar came from the factory. The motor shakes sideways when rinning.

See this link.> Flexible Mounts
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Old 24-01-2012, 10:54   #43
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Re: Engine Alignment

Congratulations Charlie. I've done an engine rebed and installation and have done the alignment while the boat is on stands so I look forward to the in-the-water final.
kind regards,
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Old 24-01-2012, 11:08   #44
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Re: Engine Alignment

I must say that Del is correct according to Yanmar but incorrect according to PYI. See this thread post #42 http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...s-39898-3.html http://www.pyiinc.com/images/pdf/rd/...R%20YANMAR.pdf says to use the different mounts front to back and Yanmar says to use them kiddy corner. I don't know all of the specifics on this but the engine with the new mounts seems to be in good shape.
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Old 24-01-2012, 11:20   #45
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Re: Engine Alignment

I believe PYI does say left to right (starter side/oil filter side). And these are not yanmar mounts.
Did you buy PYI's (R & D) mounts? If so that is their recommendation, and I'm wrong.

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