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Old 26-12-2011, 14:51   #16
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Re: Engine Alignment

SabreKai's suggestion of a machined bush to go between the shaft and the tube where it exits into the engine compartment is excellent. You will have to remove the stuffing box to do this but it is worth it. If you just slide the stuffing box up the shaft a little, and make the bush in two halves, it is easy to remove without taking the coupling from the end of the shaft.
Another thing worth doing is to dial gauge the gearbox output flange and the prop shaft flange to make sure that they are running true before you start. Does not take long and can save lots of hassle.
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Old 27-12-2011, 09:46   #17
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Re: Engine Alignment

From my understanding, the output coupling on the transmission is machined so it's face is square to the shaft. I've been advised when putting the new coupling on the shaft to pull the shaft and have the face of the coupling squared in a machine shop. This way once the shaft is held in two places by the cutlass and the bushing, you can measure directly with the indicators.

However, as Boden36 mentions, checking them both is not a big deal and quick to do. Multiple checks lead to a better job.
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Old 27-12-2011, 10:12   #18
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Re: Engine Alignment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterwayguy View Post
You really can not and should not try an alignment with a flexible coupler. To do it properly a spacer should be machined to fit the coupler and the alignment done with the spacer in place, and then the drive saver replaced when finished. Anyone that charges to do an alignment with a flex coupler is only taking your money. The drive saver will allow some misalignment but to do the job right require the spacer. Chuck
Very much depends on the flexible coupler.
R and D couplings are easy to do alignments while in situ, they even come with a machined bolt head for the job.

DTI's are a nice way to do the job but rarely can you use them in a tight bilge area. Feelers and patience are the order of the day.
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Old 28-12-2011, 11:31   #19
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Re: Engine Alignment

I agree, space in the bilge where your couplings are, makes for some interesting contortions and using dial indicators is a challenge. However, I find that making up different clamp arrangements to hold the DI works in most cases. Worse comes to worse then it is indeed time for the feeler gauges. At least in my bilge I have room to lay down quite comfortably beside the junction and do the job. I keep looking at the bilge in Tate and Dani's boat Sundowner, a Westsail 32, and have to wonder at the contortions they must have done to get that alignment done. I can imagine Tate hanging by his heels from the boom like a bat, blood rushing to his head trying to get it done.
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Old 28-12-2011, 11:54   #20
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Re: Engine Alignment

This doesnt have to be hard if you have a simple coupling. First get the OD of the couplings in alignment using a short straight edge. Dont worry about getting this perfect to start because every time you adjust the mounts it will change!
Then (with the coupling disconnected), simply draw the faces nearly together. As mentioned I just use the butt end of a small drill. Draw the couplings up solid against that drill rod on one side. Then extract it and measure the other two places approximately 120 degrees apart.. You dont really have to take an actual measurement, just find out where there is more gap or less gap. Adjust motor mounts as necessary (the hard part!) and re-do this procedure. In the end you want the drill bit to be the same "tightness" in the gap. Done well this can get you within a couple of thousanths, although it doesnt need to be that good.
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Old 28-12-2011, 11:57   #21
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Re: Engine Alignment

In the old days I hated realigning motors, But now I use a system that allows me to get it done within a couple hours.

I use 1/2" plates as long as the distance across both mounts and drill 3 sets of holes for each mount. Also the holding lag screws are in the plate and not the motor mount. And with machine screws w/lock and flat washers, they can be slightly loosen and taped around where you want it w/o secondary stresses, for a more accurate, straight up/down adjustment.

If it runs out of adjustment for one set of holes I move onto the next set in that direction. It raises the motor up 1/2" so that has to be allowed for in the mounting supports.


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Old 28-12-2011, 12:25   #22
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After you install you new mounts wait a few days before you do your alinement to let the mounts settle then do alinement and check it once or twise over the next few day. Alinement must be done in the water It's not a fun job but it's nice when it's done
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Old 28-12-2011, 13:13   #23
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Re: Engine Alignment

Quote:
Originally Posted by delmarrey View Post
In the old days I hated realigning motors, But now I use a system that allows me to get it done within a couple hours.

I use 1/2" plates as long as the distance across both mounts and drill 3 sets of holes for each mount. Also the holding lag screws are in the plate and not the motor mount. And with machine screws w/lock and flat washers, they can be slightly loosen and taped around where you want it w/o secondary stresses, for a more accurate, straight up/down adjustment.

If it runs out of adjustment for one set of holes I move onto the next set in that direction. It raises the motor up 1/2" so that has to be allowed for in the mounting supports.


.
As usual Del top notch method. I already have the motor installed. In order to install plates like that I would have to make some major changes to the bed. But I think what I will do is to spray the area underneath the motor mounts with liquid silicone spray so that it will be easier to adjust in the future. If I should ever pull the engine I can see where that would be a good way to go.
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Old 28-12-2011, 14:15   #24
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Re: Engine Alignment

Well Charlie out of these 10 or so replies there seems to be some good general info. Thats why people still pay people like me to align their engine.
!st of all, the boat needs to be in the water for at least a week before an alignment is attempted.
2nd you need to know the size of the coupling. If you have a 3" coupling the tollerence should be + or - .003" If you have a 4" coupling the tollerence should be + or - .004".
You should use a '"feeler gage" to make this check, nothing else will work.
Make your adjustments slowly and thghten each nut down before you make each check. Its time consuming but patience will pay off.
When you are finally finished make sure you take the boat out for a test drive and turn her hard in both directions to listen for any sign of the shaft hitting the log as you make the turns. If the shaft is not centered in the log it will hit one side as you do the turns. If that happens you will need to move the engine, again, and start over.
Good Luck,
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Old 28-12-2011, 15:45   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delmarrey
In the old days I hated realigning motors, But now I use a system that allows me to get it done within a couple hours.

I use 1/2" plates as long as the distance across both mounts and drill 3 sets of holes for each mount. Also the holding lag screws are in the plate and not the motor mount. And with machine screws w/lock and flat washers, they can be slightly loosen and taped around where you want it w/o secondary stresses, for a more accurate, straight up/down adjustment.

If it runs out of adjustment for one set of holes I move onto the next set in that direction. It raises the motor up 1/2" so that has to be allowed for in the mounting supports.

.
Del, if you don't mind, what is the metal used in your plates?

Reds,

Don
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Old 28-12-2011, 19:12   #26
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Re: Engine Alignment

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Del, if you don't mind, what is the metal used in your plates?

Reds,

Don
It's just a cold rolled steel flat bar, drilled and taped, painted with and good under coat and re-painted with bilge paint once installed. The motor is steel along with the mounts and bolts, so it won't make much difference unless one is worried about a little weight, like on a racer. Together they weigh about 25 lb.

On my original (VW) motor I laid out a pair of bars, drilled and taped for it's mounts. Then jacked up the motor one side at a time and installed the bars. I had to lower the motor the 1/2" first by counting turns on the mounts, then finished the alignment.
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Old 28-12-2011, 19:30   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delmarrey

It's just a cold rolled steel flat bar, drilled and taped, painted with and good under coat and re-painted with bilge paint once installed. The motor is steel along with the mounts and bolts, so it won't make much difference unless one is worried about a little weight, like on a racer. Together they weigh about 25 lb.

On my original (VW) motor I laid out a pair of bars, drilled and taped for it's mounts. Then jacked up the motor one side at a time and installed the bars. I had to lower the motor the 1/2" first by counting turns on the mounts, then finished the alignment.
Thanks Del.

My 3GM30 is being overhauled at this time and since I have to drop it back in onto the beds, this looks very interesting to make the alignment
a bit easier.

Don
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Old 28-12-2011, 19:37   #28
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Re: Engine Alignment

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Thanks Del.

My 3GM30 is being overhauled at this time and since I have to drop it back in onto the beds, this looks very interesting to make the alignment
a bit easier.

Don
Do check the mounts to see if it can be dropped the 1/2" . Otherwise you'll have to plane a little off the beds.
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Old 29-12-2011, 11:50   #29
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Re: Engine Alignment

I just spent over half a boat buck on the mounts and a new drive saver. Plan on doing the install the first couple of weeks of the new year. Thanks for all the information. I hope this thread helps people in the future with a question on alignment. If I can't get it right I am going to hire someone to teach me how to do it. BTW I just goit off the phone with PYI and was very impressed with their staff. I asked them about changing out just one of the mounts and their salesman said, "If you are going to do that I suggest you go with the Yanmar mounts." I've decided to do all four. Wish me luck.
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Old 05-01-2012, 21:11   #30
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Re: Engine Alignment

At auto parts store have them order a "Go-Nogo" set of feelers. No more expensive then normal set, but no feeling required. I had to talk the guy at NAPA into looking it up as he said there was no such thing. He was wrong.
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