Electric Priming /Back up Fuel Pump

[sailorchic34]

So whats a good "low cost" electric fuel pump to put in series or parallel with the mechanical lift pump.

I was just going to add a fuel primer bulb, but the cheap ones are 16-20 dollars (Amazon & WM). Figure I can maybe find an electric fuel pump for $40-$50 and have a back up too. This is for "Purple" my soon to be reinstalled Yanmar 3gm30F.

[Fiveslide]

I got the electric diesel pump from advance auto. The first one lasted about 5 minutes. Returned it for a replacement and have not had a problem with that one. They have a small filter that threads into the pump. I got a fitting to put in the filter's place. I think it cost me $75, with the fitting from west marine.

It's a good thing to have. I can change the 3 filters and prime the system in about 15 minutes.

[Minggat]

Originally Posted by Fiveslide

I got the electric diesel pump from advance auto. The first one lasted about 5 minutes.

I wonder if the first one was for gas, not diesel. There's a diff.

Bought mine at auto parts store as well. Be advised, I believe that they all have an internal filer that can plug off on you. Good reason to have it bypassed when not being used for priming.

Sorry not to answer your question though. Just a word of caution.

[Fiveslide]

Originally Posted by Minggat

I wonder if the first one was for gas, not diesel. There's a diff.

Bought mine at auto parts store as well. Be advised, I believe that they all have an internal filer that can plug off on you. Good reason to have it bypassed when not being used for priming.

No. Both were the "Mr Gasket electric diesel pump."

The external filter was one reason i went with that pump. I knew i could just put the fitting in its place.

This was installed in-line in a 6 cyl trawler so it should have no problem supplying that little yanmar with fuel. And it shouldn't restrict the fuel from the mechanical lift pump.

[gordwedman]

Previous owner installed a Facet Electronic Automotive fuel pump to bleed the Westerbeke 40. Seem to be around $40 to $60 on eBay. Have a look at this one.

"Truck APU Diesel Generator 12V Facet Fuel Pump with Copper Fittings 186F 186FA."

[nimblemotors]

I dunno about diesel, but a manual/electric drill pump looks to me like a good way
to go for a backup. If you lose electricity, the handheld 12v drill can power it,
or even rig a manual method to spin it.

[zeehag]

sailorchic--i use a cheapo electric assist low pressure pump i bought from napa for not much dough. buy a spare also.

works great, no problems been 3 yrs on same pump.

[engele]

I just did this with a basic auto parts diesel pump (make sure it's diesel rated, some gas parts don't like diesel). It's a magical thing. My old 4.108 sucked to prime before, but is no big deal now. Simple, cheap and very cool.

[sailorchic34]

Thank you everyone. I went to two different auto parts places today and both were out of the universal diesel fuel pumps. So I picked up a priming bulb at WM and will use that until I get the engine installed and running well.

I'm going to rework my racor installation as in order to change the filter you have to get everything out of the lazzerette and climb in. I'm going to relocate the recors to the port engine bay wall where I can access them from inside the boat.

I had been meaning to do that for 4-5 years now and gee it will never get easier to do.

I'm also going to repack my packing gland. Only because it will be easy without the engine and V-drive in the way.

[chris07732]

Sailorchic: I just bought this fuel pump from Amazon: It works well, especially for the price.
Amazon.com: Autobest F4027 Electric Fuel Pump: Automotive

[Tx J]

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

So whats a good "low cost" electric fuel pump to put in series or parallel with the mechanical lift pump.

I was just going to add a fuel primer bulb, but the cheap ones are 16-20 dollars (Amazon & WM). Figure I can maybe find an electric fuel pump for $40-$50 and have a back up too. This is for "Purple" my soon to be reinstalled Yanmar 3gm30F.

I've been drawing up a plan for reworking my Yanmar diesel fuel system too.
An electric feed boost and polishing pump is part of it.
AutoZone (and probably most other auto parts places) carries two models of that "Mr. Gasket" pump (among others).

Mr. Gasket/Electric fuel pump (12S) | Fuel Pump | AutoZone.com

Mr. Gasket/Electric fuel pump (42S) | Fuel Pump | AutoZone.com

The specs for one model, the 35GPH one, listed as having:
Inlet Attachement: .375
Inlet Count: 1
Inlet Size:.375Item Grade:OEM StandardMaximum Free Flow Rate (gph):35Maximum Pressure Range (psi):7Minimum Free Flow Rate (gph):35Minimum Pressure Range (psi):4Outlet Attachment:1
Inlet Size:.375Item Grade:OEM StandardMaximum Free Flow Rate (gph):35Maximum Pressure Range (psi):7Minimum Free Flow Rate (gph):35Minimum Pressure Range (psi):4Outlet Attachment:1
Inlet Size: .375
Item Grade: OEM Standard
Maximum Free Flow Rate (gph): 35
Maximum Pressure Range (psi): 7
Minimum Free Flow Rate (gph): 35
Minimum Pressure Range (psi): 4
Outlet Attachment: 1
Outlet Count: 1
Outlet Size: .375

the other, a 42GPH model, specs:
Inlet Attachement:.375Inlet Count:1Inlet Size:.375Item Grade:OEM StandardMaximum Free Flow Rate (gph):3.5Maximum Pressure Range (psi):3.5Minimum Free Flow Rate (gph):42Minimum Pressure Range (psi):2Outlet Attachment:1Outlet Count:1Outlet Size:.375Inlet Attachement: .375
Inlet Count: 1
Inlet Size: .375
Item Grade: OEM Standard
Maximum Free Flow Rate (gph): 3.5
Maximum Pressure Range (psi): 3.5
Minimum Free Flow Rate (gph): 42
Minimum Pressure Range (psi): 2
Outlet Attachment: 1
Outlet Count: 1
Outlet Size: .375

I might be overthinking this, but would the lower max/min PSI rated pump be a better choice for a small, low flow diesel, or does it even make a difference?
The flow rates and PSI's are only slightly different between the two pumps.
Each is only around 45-46 dollars; looking at the top shelf stuff elsewhere, they run 200-500 clams...do the same dang thing...just get a spare or two.

One other thing: for a gas fueled engine, if an electric boost fuel pump is used, it must have a failsafe automatic shutoff in case of accident or whatever (I think this is a CG requirement, like having blowers, etc.).
This might not be a diesel requirement, but sounds like it would be worth having anyway. At the least, a manual pump kill switch and a shutoff/isolation valve(s).

(dang specs copy&paste got hosed up and I don't see (anything) how to fix it, sry)

[Strait Shooter]

So how would you wire the pump into the electrical system?

[Group9]

Originally Posted by Strait Shooter

So how would you wire the pump into the electrical system?

Mine is wired so that when the ignition key is "on", the pump is on.

It makes it so easy to bleed the system after changing fuel filters.

All I do is cut on the ignition, wait a couple of minutes, and the system is bled and ready to go. Much easier than the way I had to do it with our farm tractors, and unscrewing each injector one at a time while pumping a tiny hand pump by the fuel bowl.

[Fiveslide]

Originally Posted by Strait Shooter

So how would you wire the pump into the electrical system?

I wanted my switch near where i would be working. So my switch is within reach of where i sit when i bleed and when i open up the access to the engine if i need to turn it on under way. I put an in-line fuse and hooked it straight to the start battery. No need to do some big long wire run to your dc panel or anything complicated.

[Fiveslide]

Originally Posted by Group9

Mine is wired so that when the ignition key is "on", the pump is on.

It makes it so easy to bleed the system after changing fuel filters.

All I do is cut on the ignition, wait a couple of minutes, and the system is bled and ready to go. Much easier than the way I had to do it with our farm tractors, and unscrewing each injector one at a time while pumping a tiny hand pump by the fuel bowl.

What is your reason for wiring it that way, to run all the time?