Easiest way to change engine mounts

[a64pilot]

I assume pry the engine up one side at a time with a 2x4?
Lifting would be difficult without removing the top portion of the enclosure.
Jacking, well maybe with a porta power, which I don't have.
4JHE in an IP38, any tricks I need to be aware of? things to be careful of?

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

I assume pry the engine up one side at a time with a 2x4?
Lifting would be difficult without removing the top portion of the enclosure.
Jacking, well maybe with a porta power, which I don't have.
4JHE in an IP38, any tricks I need to be aware of? things to be careful of?

I don't think there's anything especially to be aware of??? Straightforward... Alignment not withstanding of course...

I use a simple screw (scissor) jack for lots of things where clearance and range are an issue... I wouldn't have thought about using my porta power, but mine and most only come with 5" rams, about 12" OAL... Now if I had a pancake ram??? Hmm... hitting ebay!

[HappyMdRSailor]

Maybe you can find something that will work over here...

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...er-163486.html

[Frankly]

We probably have slightly different set ups, but what I do is unbolt the drive shaft flange, support the engine with 2x4s in the pan, note approximate supporting nut location on threaded shaft. Unbolt the mounting bracket from the engine block, remove the lag screws and remove the mount and bracket as an assy. Reverse the process and set lower supporting nut to approx same distance up threaded shaft. One at the time and then do a realignment.

Done it twice and getting ready for my third.

[Pete7]

I had the local Volvo engineers do mine because I wanted the prop shaft seal doing at the same time and we were dried out on a grid so limited time available due to the tide.

The disconnected the propshaft and then used a long crow bar to lift one corner at a time, support it on 4x4" blocks and replace the mount before moving on to the next. Having seen it done once I would be happy to DIY myself next time.

The crow bar on blocks gave more than enough leverage and kept fingers out of the way. The engine is a Volvo 2003 and 148 kgs.

Pete

[Rick Williams]

I recently read that some genius (not being snarky) thought to just unbolt the engine mount from the engine, do the motor mount work and bolt the engine mount back on to the engine.
Sounded pretty brilliant to me if that gives you enough room to do what you need with the engine still in place.

[KimSails]

I've heard of people putting a deflated basketball under the engine and inflating it.

Also, Maine Sail has a posting about it:
Replacing Motor Mounts & The Obstacles Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com

Kim

[Tessellate]

The easiest way will be different for every boat and engine I think, but if you read prior threads many people recommend jacks, wedges (wooden shims), an engine lift (of various kinds), or inflatables (basketball or a dock fender under the oil pan).

I didn't use any of those approaches because they seemed like more work and I don't want to own a lot of single use tools (never used a jack in my life, don't own a car). I raised the engine part way by using the mounts themselves (the nuts are designed to lift the engine), then lifted the engine by hand at a corner, just the 1/2" necessary to get one mount out. I used a wood block to shim it a bit in case it tried to drop more than a 1/2" in the 10 seconds or so it took me to slide the new mount into place. For a Yanmar 3HM it's not that heavy to lift one corner 1/2", if you have half-way decent access. For me that was the easiest way. Not sure about a 4JHE though, that'll be heavier.

[ranger58sb]

Can't get a boom from shore under your enclosure to place a block over your engine?


I've seen the guys here in the yard lift engines of of sportbridge boats and others, even when having to extend the boom into the cabin through doors and so forth... Just back the boat up to the bulkhead by the work yard, back the truck up toward the boat, 5 minutes later, engine out.


They say it doesn't cost much to rent the guy with the boom truck...


-Chris

[a64pilot]

I hadn't thought of a basketball, I see no reason why that wouldn't work, assuming you can get enough pressure in it, and the pan is strong enough, I think yes on both accounts.
There is an engine cover in the way to lift it, I had thought one day when rebuild comes that by the time I remove the head and accessories, manifolds, etc, just essentially try to man handle the long block out, and or most likely buy an inexpensive engine lift, lift will fit in the salon and the arm will extend into the engine compt., but that's sort of extreme for mounts. I'm hoping I can just lever the engine up with the nuts off of the mounts and bolts removed, then have the wife slip the new ones in and set the motor down.
Porta powers usually come with what looks like a door stop, except it opens up like your fingers do with the "Vulcan" salute.

Pretty sure a scissors jack won't fit under, besides I don't like lifting a pan, these pans are sheet metal? Yanmar 4-JHE

[a64pilot]

Frankly, I don't understand, are you manhandling the engine up and supporting on 2x4's?
What gets it up high enough to get it over the mount studs?

[Scaramanga F25]

It is much easier to adjust engine mounting if there are only three.

Ever try to fix a wobbly 4 legged chair?

[Frankly]

On the 3GM there is a steel bracket between the block and the rubber mount. Don't try to lift the engine enough to clear the threaded mount stud, just remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the engine, remove the two lags holding the base of the mount and slip the bracket/ mount out together. Need to support the engine under the pan and lift it just slightly to take the shear load off the engine mounting bolts. One corner at the time. Works out pretty well on the 32.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Frankly

On the 3GM there is a steel bracket between the block and the rubber mount. Don't try to lift the engine enough to clear the threaded mount stud, just remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the engine, remove the two lags holding the base of the mount and slip the bracket/ mount out together. Need to support the engine under the pan and lift it just slightly to take the shear load off the engine mounting bolts. One corner at the time. Works out pretty well on the 32.

OK got it, I didn't look to see if the arm the mount was attached to, was in itself bolted to the engine, seems logical that it would be, more logical than it being a solid bar running under the engine anyhow.
If so then using Tessellate's way of jacking the engine up with the mount, may get the other mount loose enough that you can unbolt it from the engine, and alternate that way til they are all replaced, no lift equipment or pry bars required?

Although I like the idea of the Basketball, just too elegant not to give it a try.

[Dave22q]

There seem to be as many ways to jack up the motor as there are cruisers. Generally unbolt, hoist, pull lag screws. Where it gets interesting is installing the new mounts. If rot was involved you need to remove and replace the bad material. I assume you want to avoid relocating your engine and that means installing something firm to lag bolt into. How you do that depends upon the layout of your compartment floor.