I couldn't get a mechanic
to replace mine on a MD17D so I did it myself... Your engine is likely not the same but here is what I did. Hoisting the engine is not necessary.
1. You change one mount at a time... hopefully with ones that use the same mounting holes and bolts. You have to unbolt the coupling to the shaft first. TAKE PHOTOS AND MEASUREMENTS. LOTS. You'll have to remove stuff to get at the mounts...
2. The engine is connected to the mounts by heavy brackets which are bolted to the sides of the engine. To change a mount.. wedge some wood under the engine where you are going to remove the mount. You have to unbolt the bracket from the engine.. then remove the large adjustment nuts on the top of the mount and lift the bracket off leaving the mount bolted to the stringer... the engine is resting on 3 mounts. The pan is lighter gauge metal but but can support the weight. Blocking should be reasonably large to spread the load.
3. Install the new mount to the stringer (after cleaning
/ prep etc.). The ht adjustment is done by raising the bottom nut which the bracket rests on... then tightening with the lock washers and top nut or nuts. With the new mount installed to the stringer... drop the bracket onto the bolt... adjust the nuts so the bolts of / for the bracket to the engine align. Insert all bolts and torque them down to the engine. You'll want a hefty wrench with perhaps a pipe extension for added leverage to torque them.
3. raise the lower nut on the mount until it comes up to the bracket. This is a rough position. Do not tighten the top nut.
4. Now repeat this for the remaining 3 mounts.
5. Assuming that your engine has moved somewhat for various reasons... you next have align the engine coupling. Rotate the prop side of the coupling to align the bolt holes. You should be able to get one to align...at least. If the don't you have to raise the bottom nuts on the mounts. Once you get it reasonably aligned you can install the remaining 3 bolts.
6. Alignment is done with a feeler gauge inserted between the coupling plates. You raise or lower the mounts to get the plates parallel... same gap with feller gauge at each bolt. You might need to lever the engine up with a crow bar hand turning the lower nut if turning the lower nuts takes too long with a wrench. Usually you can't turn the nuts very much because of little clearance. The alignment takes time and is important. If it's not well aligned you will have vibration and probably leaking from the dripless shaft seal
... which requires alignment and proper pressure at the bellows.
takes some time... but is low tech and all you need are some bits of wood to shim/hold the engine... a large wrecking bar to lever the engine. the correct wrenches and a pipe extension to get more torque, feeler gauges, a camera
For some mounts you can assemble the mount without having to remove the bracket by sliding the mount in place and inserts the alignment bolt thru the bracket through the nuts below. Note that this bolt has a square top to tighten it in place.
If I could do this on a mooring
... you can!